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  • Let's just say the picture is very flattering. In person the differences are quite obvious. Especially if you look at the baseplate from the side. The baseplate has an appearance of having been bent into shape, the size of the trem arm collar is different, the bar actually sits a bit higher and the quality of the metal appears to be of a lesser grade.

    I'm not saying that the Floyd Rose Special is "bad". The one I tried stayed in tune ok under some light use. But if you have ever seen a one of the production model floyds in person then saw a Floyd Rose Special you'd be able to spot the differences easily.

    Here's an example of the different levels: http://espguitars.com/guitars_george.html

    The top of the line ESP Lynch guitars have "Floyd Rose Original", the mid tier has "Foyd Rose 1000 Series" (which I think is the same as what's on the Charvels), and the bottom tier has the "Floyd Rose Special". It's the GL-200MT that I tried out.
    Dave

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    • Originally posted by DHardmanJr View Post
      The top of the line ESP Lynch guitars have "Floyd Rose Original", the mid tier has "Foyd Rose 1000 Series" (which I think is the same as what's on the Charvels), and the bottom tier has the "Floyd Rose Special". It's the GL-200MT that I tried out.
      That's good info on that ESP page. It sure would be nice to see a spec sheet and comparison of what looks to be 3 versions of "Floyd Rose" branded trems. I wasn't aware of the 1000 series and couldn't find any info on them online -- that may very well be the same thing on our Charvels.

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      • I don't remember who pointed it out first, but the Special's baseplate is rounded on the front around the knife edges. The Korean one is not - it is straight edged like the German one.
        -------------------------
        Blank yo!

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        • Originally posted by Grandturk View Post
          I don't remember who pointed it out first, but the Special's baseplate is rounded on the front around the knife edges. The Korean one is not - it is straight edged like the German one.
          Here's a photo of the Charvel Floyd Rose I pulled from my SoCal:


          Here's a brand new German OFR made by Schaller that I purchased from Warmoth to replace it:


          Compare these photos to the FR Special:


          I'm not sure I see the rounded baseplate detail difference.

          Here's another piece of the puzzle.... That vendor lists the FR Special as follows:

          Manufacturer: Floyd Rose
          Manufacturer Part No: FRT-S1000

          The Special isn't a 1000, but they're using "1000" in the part number. Confusing.

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          • Originally posted by zarl View Post
            Here's another piece of the puzzle.... That vendor lists the FR Special as follows:

            Manufacturer: Floyd Rose
            Manufacturer Part No: FRT-S1000

            The Special isn't a 1000, but they're using "1000" in the part number. Confusing.
            I hate to say it, but Ed Roman has some pretty good info on his site: http://www.edroman.com/parts/IS_bridgetrem.htm

            Basically ...

            FRT-100, FRT-200, FRT-300 = Floyd Rose Original German (Chrome, Black, Gold)
            FRT-1000, FRT-2000, FRT-3000 = Floyd Rose Korean (Chrome, Black, Gold) (looks like the one on the new production model Charvels)
            FRT Spec C = Floyd Rose Special (Chrome)
            Dave

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            • I checked out a special a few weeks back.......it looks "ok"....a tad cheap...but If I am buying, I want a real Floyd. I have owned a few licensed floyds over the years, probably about 6 different kinds, and never been happy with any of them EXCEPT a Schaller Floyd. those babies are solid. every bit as good as an OFR in my book.
              "clean sounds are for pussies" - Axewielder

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              • BTW, that is one SWEET old charvel on this page!!!!! NICE!!!!
                "clean sounds are for pussies" - Axewielder

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                • Originally posted by tonemonster View Post
                  BTW, that is one SWEET old charvel on this page!!!!! NICE!!!!
                  That ain't an old one, methinks.
                  -------------------------
                  Blank yo!

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                  • Originally posted by zarl View Post
                    Here's the guitar that's inspiring me to switch it up to creme and chrome. Color isn't exactly the same, but you get the general idea of what a Sea Sick Green will look like after the change.

                    OMG

                    This is an amazing guitar,but this color is more sonic blue or daphne blue then the sea sick...

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                    • Originally posted by tonemonster View Post
                      I checked out a special a few weeks back.......it looks "ok"....a tad cheap...but If I am buying, I want a real Floyd.
                      I agree --- I bought the real German OFR for my Charvel. It deserves it.

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                      • Originally posted by Grandturk View Post
                        That ain't an old one, methinks.
                        It's from the Music Zoo. One of those new "relics".

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                        • Question for you experts regarding neck gap. So far I love my Sea Sick Green San Dimas, I can't seem to put it down - still in the honeymoon phase. I did not see any noticeable flaws upon receipt.

                          However...I brought the guitar to my lesson the other day and the teacher wanted to have a look and he noted something and I do not know if it is really a big deal so I wanted to share it with you.

                          There is a slight gap between the left side of the neck and the body, there is not a gap on the right hand side.

                          http://www.thesparkeffect.com/free/C...masNeckGap.jpg

                          Do you think this is something I should be concerned about over time? Or is this not really a big deal? I am not interested in returning the guitar necessarily, but curious if I should mention this to the vendor where I purchased the guitar.

                          Thanks,

                          --thomas

                          Comment


                          • As long as the neck isn't cocked, its nothing to be worried about (IMO). If the neck is cocked (i.e. not perfectly straight) you'll notice one of the E's falling off the fretboard at some point on the neck - easily pulled off the fret while you're playing. This may or may not bother you.

                            I've seen masterbuilt Strats with business card sized gaps in their neck pockets. SRV's #1's neck was apparently so crooked in the neck pocket, the low E was nearly unfrettable up high on the fretboard (according to an article I read).

                            The important thing is - does it bother you. If it does, send it back while you still can and get another one. It's not worth being upset about this 4-5 years down the line and whimpering, "I wish I didn't have a gap in my neck pocket, boo, hoo."

                            Also - the last guy who complained about their Pro Mod's neck pocket got his house busted into and his shit robbed!


                            Sorry Jazzy...
                            -------------------------
                            Blank yo!

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                            • Thanks Grandturk for the response. It is of no bother to me, I appreciate your opinion. I hope that making mention of the pocket will not bring such bad luck! If it means anything to the universe - haha - I was not complaining, only asked a question. Interesting about SRV. Have a great weekend.

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                              • Honestly, Id be sending that guitar back if it were me. The neck pocket on my SoCal is TIGHT as hell... actually have to use some force to get the neck back in. Thats the way it should be. More wood contact=better tone and sustain. A neck pocket like that can let the neck shift as well. Not something Id accept on an $1100 guitar.
                                Imagine, being able to be magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi... Im in... Delaware...

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