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  • #46
    I am revisiting this thread because I was researching more cosmetic damage repair videos on Youtube and remembered synapsistheory documented the fixes he performed on the KV2 seen in this thread. Synapsis, did you ever finish the ding repair(s)? How did it/they turn out? Did you get a practice guitar to try out the procedure first?

    To revisit the trem cleaning work you did in this thread, I remember you inadvertently stripped some of the black finish on the trem of your $80 blue RR1 by leaving the parts soaking in vinegar a bit too long, which you've obviously refined to a shorter soak time as seen with the trem of your KV2. On a related note about cleaning and restoring metal hardware, during the most recent Christmas holiday I worked on two Ibanez trems and now I feel comfortable recommending 3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil applied with a toothbrush and wiped off with a rag. No soaking required, which meant I could start the brushing work immediately, though I imagine soaking might help for extremely rusted parts. The oil was also safe for all parts (as I noticed in a previous post you mentioned refraining from vinegar-soaking certain trem parts) and made them all look like they just came out of the factory, and no finish was stripped.

    I understand this to be the procedure followed by most guys who swear by the time-tested method of "WD-40 + toothbrush" to clean metal parts, except I already had 3-IN-ONE available (and no WD-40). Many ways to skin a cat. Not trying to sway you from vinegar, and not trying to sway the WD-40 guys either, but just another option to consider.

    In the video linked below, Dan Erlewine cleans off rust and dirt by soaking metal parts primarily in naphtha and a couple drops of 3-IN-ONE Oil, followed by brushing. I used this mixture and procedure on a different rusty/dirty Ibanez Edge trem in the past and got passable results (clean, but not all the rust was removed even after 24h soaking + brushing + wiping, which I couldn't understand why). The results I achieved using the 3-IN-ONE + immediate brushing were quicker and far more satisfying. Sorry Dan.

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    • #47
      Originally posted by Number Of The Priest View Post
      I am revisiting this thread because I was researching more cosmetic damage repair videos on Youtube and remembered synapsistheory documented the fixes he performed on the KV2 seen in this thread. Synapsis, did you ever finish the ding repair(s)? How did it/they turn out? Did you get a practice guitar to try out the procedure first?

      No, I left it as is with the touch-up paint and superglue fills for now. I can't really tell that it was ever damaged unless I'm really looking for the blemishes and touch-ups up close, so that's good enough for me. I do need to find a cheap guitar to practice touch-ups and wet sanding though, just have'nt done it yet. I've been busy and pre-occupied with other things. It's still my favorite guitar and gets the most play-time out of any in my collection.

      Here are some updated photos I took today with circles on the blemishes that I had previously touched-up. Also a pic of the Floyd. It stills looks pretty clean compared to what it was when I got the guitar last year.





      Last edited by synapsistheory; 01-13-2019, 08:53 PM.

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      • #48
        Thanks for the update! I know I've said it before, but your finished product looks amazing.

        Since you're at a more advanced stage than I am, I have a few questions for you:

        1) Were you particularly concerned about "color matching" the black nail polish to your guitar? I recently went to Walmart and noticed their cosmetics aisle has about half a dozen shades of black alone. In the first Dan Erlewine video I linked in this thread, he didn't use nail polish but he used blue stain and he wasn't concerned with "color matching" the blue. Not sure if that makes a difference. I have a red car, and I have the factory-correct touch-up pen and even then it's not perfect because the car's paint has faded in the sun over the 12-year period I've owned it.

        2) Any particular brand or kind of super glue that you recommend? I find that the small single-use tubes contain way more glue than a "single use" might need, yet they dry up before I ever need to use them again, so are wasteful. I noticed Gorilla Glue offers a Super Glue Brush & Nozzle bottle (https://www.gorillatough.com/product...-brush-nozzle/) that might facilitate careful application and also long-term use.

        3) After you applied super glue as your clearcoat, what next? Did you level the area with a razor blade, or leave it as-is? This is where you stopped, right? I think this is pretty much half the battle done.

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        • #49
          Check these guys out: https://gluboost.com/

          The Canadian guitar guy i linked earlier in this thread has done a few repairs with that stuff and he says its good stuff.
          https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOX...nzzZ9A4GyQ6Tog

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Number Of The Priest View Post
            Thanks for the update! I know I've said it before, but your finished product looks amazing.

            Since you're at a more advanced stage than I am, I have a few questions for you:

            1) Were you particularly concerned about "color matching" the black nail polish to your guitar? I recently went to Walmart and noticed their cosmetics aisle has about half a dozen shades of black alone. In the first Dan Erlewine video I linked in this thread, he didn't use nail polish but he used blue stain and he wasn't concerned with "color matching" the blue. Not sure if that makes a difference. I have a red car, and I have the factory-correct touch-up pen and even then it's not perfect because the car's paint has faded in the sun over the 12-year period I've owned it.

            2) Any particular brand or kind of super glue that you recommend? I find that the small single-use tubes contain way more glue than a "single use" might need, yet they dry up before I ever need to use them again, so are wasteful. I noticed Gorilla Glue offers a Super Glue Brush & Nozzle bottle (https://www.gorillatough.com/product...-brush-nozzle/) that might facilitate careful application and also long-term use.

            3) After you applied super glue as your clearcoat, what next? Did you level the area with a razor blade, or leave it as-is? This is where you stopped, right? I think this is pretty much half the battle done.
            Thanks for the kind words, Priest! Hopefully I can be of some help...

            1. No, I was'nt overly concerned with the black because it's such a dark color and I only had a few options to choose from at the store. I just got the darkest one I could find knowing that the black that Jackson uses for it's guitars is pretty dark anyways. Had I needed to touch-up a lighter colored guitar I would definitely be more cautious in color selection. Fortunately though, my rhythm guitarist is a professional auto painter and owns a camera that can give you the color code to anything you focus its lens on, then we can mix the paint in his shop to get the exact color that Jackson used to do the touch-up. I'll need to do this when I touch up my white KV2. I know not everyone has access to this stuff, so I would recommend buying a few colors that you feel are close to what your guitars color is, take them home, and then see which one looks best. Don't open them though so that you can take the remaining ones back for a full refund.

            2. I used the StewMac "Thin" superglue and also the "medium" available on their website. I'm sure it's probably no better than any other superglue brand, but I liked the fact that StewMac has different thicknesses that I could use for different applications and it has'nt dried up since I've opened it last year.
            https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an...uper_Glue.html

            The thinner superglue is especially useful for getting into those really fine hairline cracks and in between the exposed wood and remaining clear coat in order to form a stronger bond. That's my thought process anyways. I use that first on a fill. Then I use a little of the medium to bring it to level with the rest of the finish.

            Get some whip tips also! I can't recommend those enough! They help prevent you from getting too much glue on the area.
            https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an...Whip_Tips.html

            3. Yeah, after I applied the glue I stopped and that's where it's at currently. I just made sure not to overdo it with the glue and get a buildup on the area so I did'nt have to scrape it with a razorblade. I probably should in an area or two but I don't really mind. It's not gonna be perfect and I don't want to compromise the instrument anymore than it has been. I need to learn more about and get some experience wet-sanding before I proceed.
            Last edited by synapsistheory; 01-14-2019, 02:07 PM.

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            • #51
              Pre-Fender is meaningless. Not much changed immediately after Fender purchased Jackson.

              It should be Post-Ontario or Pre-Corona Jackson...
              The 2nd Amendment: America's Original Homeland Defense.

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              • #52

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