Help, my KV1 needs medical assistance!

[Hellbat]

^^^^^

counter-clockwise looking toward the nut from the bridge or looking from the nut towards the bridge?

[Grahf]

well, the truss rod wont really turn any more counter-clockwise. It lost resistance and feels like the nut itself is coming out now, which I think means it is all the way loose. its still buzzing pretty bad. i adjusted the bridge already too. is this bad?

[Brian]

well, the truss rod wont really turn any more counter-clockwise. It lost resistance and feels like the nut itself is coming out now, which I think means it is all the way loose. its still buzzing pretty bad. i adjusted the bridge already too. is this bad?

Not trying to sound rude, but you should probably just take it to a qualified technician in your area and get everything sorted out. There surely has to be at least one reputable tech that can help you with the problem.

[toejam]

Are you saying there is backbow to the neck? Yikes. Those old KV's have one-way truss rods. If this is the case, going with heavier strings is about the only option.

well, the truss rod wont really turn any more counter-clockwise. It lost resistance and feels like the nut itself is coming out now, which I think means it is all the way loose. its still buzzing pretty bad. i adjusted the bridge already too. is this bad?

If what Axewielder says is true, then you'll have to put heavier strings on it so it will bow the neck the other way, then you'll be able to tighten the rod to bring it back.

[toejam]

Turning left loosens it and should bring the strings away from the board. You look down into the nut from the top and turn left (towards the high E/counterclockwise).

^^^^^

counter-clockwise looking toward the nut from the bridge or looking from the nut towards the bridge?

Righty, tighty. Lefty, loosey. Looking from the nut towards the bridge.
But it doesn't really matter when you're talking clockwise or counterclockwise, because clockwise and counterclockwise are always the same.

[Tommie]

OK, strictly in order:

1. With new strings at correct pitch, check how much relief is in the neck by holding the G string down at frets 1 and 22, and see if the string kisses every fret top or not. If there's a slight gap between the string and fret 11, the truss rod setting is fine for the moment. If there's no gap at all, or you can clearly see the neck is back bowed, loosen the truss rod nut until you get a slight gap (about the thickness of a B string) between fret 11 and the G string. If the truss rod is completely loose, you have a bigger problem, first option is to tune all the strings up to G C F Bb D G and leave it with the extra tension for a time to see if it'll help, but you're getting into pro procedures now and much beyond this needs specialist help.

2. Assuming that 1 is successful, adjust the bridge saddles so the action at fret 12, while holding down the strings at fret 1 (use a capo) with guitar tuned to pitch is 1.5mm on 1st string, to 1.8mm on 6th. This is a good starting point for a flattish radius Jackson neck where a fast action is needed.

3. The neck should be more or less playable now, aside from the nut which might now need some work. Note that the nut is LAST thing to be checked, earlier advice to shim the nut will only help the open string buzz and do nothing at all to help any fretted buzzing. Check whether you have a clear note on each open string, or whether the notes are clear but action feels a bit high. The former problem is resolved by shimming the nut, tap it out of place and put a strip of thin paper under it, then replace it and check again, repeat until you're happy with it, then super glue the strips to the nut, let it dry and wood glue the nut to the neck. If the string height is too high at the nut, again, tap off the nut but sand the bottom of it lightly to reduce its overall height. Take tiny steps here, until you get it right. My rule of thumb is that when you press down at 3rd fret, the little piece of dead string between 2nd fret and nut should be just clear of fret 1 and no more.

You can then play with the action at the bridge to suit your playing style and how much buzz you can tolerate, and you may also have to fine tune the truss rod to ensure consistent buzz free/same degree of tolerable buzz all the way up and down the neck.

[Newc]

It's also entirely possible that you just need a new nut. It's not a brand new guitar, it was played, tuned, and the strings cut into the nut. I'm sure the nut slots were doctored previously as well.

Put on a new nut - it'll be a lot taller than it should be, and that will allow you to set the action at the first fret how you like it, once the truss rod is adjusted so the neck isn't bowing backwards.

[Tommie]

It's also entirely possible that you just need a new nut.

Dude, with respect that's not all it needs. The problem is "the action is so low that the guitar is not even playable on the first 5 frets or so. it's pure buzz. the high E string buzzes on every single fret", so there's a fundamental issue with bridge saddle height and/or trussrod to take care of. As I said in my post, the nut affects the first fret buzz only, nowhere else. OP has to take care of the trussrod, followed by bridge saddles height, and nut last of all, with the only requirement to come back to any part of the process twice to tweak it a tiny bit to suit his individual style. That's the quickest, most logical process and one I've followed for years, never had a problem I couldn't fix.

The reason I learned this was because the one and only time I took a guitar in for a setup, it was a waste of money as they made a hash of it, and I figured I had two hands, two eyes and a brain (having inherited my dad's skills in practical problem solving, understanding issues and finding solutions - thanks Dad!) same as they did so I could do it myself.