Sagging Tremolo Syndrome

[ADR]

Your right,if the springs stretch. . the Trem will lean more foward (towards neck) the opposite of what he described (back).
More than likely the strings ie: new,sweat. . the hot temps (stage lights?) we know how hot it gets,think about it.
Any of those allen nuts heads in the nut stripped? Clamping hard enough? The little plates can have grooves,try rotating them 90*,did you have to remove them?

[Diego]

I m using 09 strings ad I do strech them, regretably thats not it

I ve removed my studs and checked that the stud housing (dont know how is it called) is firly attached to the body (doesn't move or anything)

I ve also checked that it is not that the strngs are slipping (due to worn nut) I tune lock the nut and then with an enlectoic tuner check that the string does not change tune while I strech the string behind the nut (over the headstock)

Running out of ideas here
If anyone has any they are wellcome.!

[Bengal]

So after it goes flat and you retune it with a screwdriver, does it go sharp after the gig when the guitar gets cooler?

[ulijdavid]

Without running any serious thermal calcualtions, I believe the heat required to make the springs deflect would actually melt your finish before throwing the guitar out of tune. I don't know about you, but it usually takes me about half an hour of string stretching BEFORE tightening the lock nut. I will usually pull the low E string up about an inch off the fretboard and retune until the string will not go out of tune. This usually takes about 8 repetitions of this for each string. I strive to get the guitar to stay in tune during dive bombs before tightening the lock nut. I have very rarely seen a properly set up Floyd with stretched strings go out of tune. Very strange problem.

[DonP]

Before replacing the studs, take the trem off and see if the studs can move by just touching them with your finger. If they do, take them out, then take some PTFE plumber's tape and wrap it around the threads, put them back in... that'll stop any kind of movement in the studs. It tends to happen a bit on imports more for some reason.

It's all a matter of quality. A bushing and stud can be made with tight fitting threads or they can be made with loose tolerances and have a lot of play or woble. OFR studs and bushings are machined to closer tolerances than imports.

[Vass]

I think the more likely scenario is, as some folks mentioned, something is slightly worn (locknut or posts loose) OR your neck is slightly unstable and is perhaps flexing a bit due to the change in temperature/humidity. I have a hard time believing that 98.6 is going to cause springs to change their tensile strength enough to put the guitar out of tune. I don't have nearly the problem believing that a 20-30 degree change could cause a neck to move a lil bit.

We'll know more when we have the answer as to whether or not she goes sharp once he's off the stage.

Vass

[Trev57]

To answer some of the above comments. I do stretch my strings. I do not lock them down until at least 24 hours after re-stringing. I use 10s. And the one I know some of you don't want to hear, the guitar is sharp the next day by the same amount that it was flat during the gig. I guess you could argue that if the strings and springs (in fact, the whole guitar) increased in temperature by the same amount, then all would remain equal in tuning terms. But, the coeficient of expansion is different for each type of material, so in theory (sorry, but I am a mechanical engineer) all parts will expand at different rates. The other biggie is that the worst culprit amongst my guitars has an unfinished body, so may also be affected more severely by changes in humidity. As this guitar is also missing its backplate, this could be contributing by allowing extra heat to get to the springs from my body, but now I have figured out the screwdriver fix, I wouldn't put a cover on it anyway.

[Bengal]

OK, try a new set of springs.

Or gig with another guitar.

[Sunbane]

Really weird I must say. Are you sure your trem is returning to "zero" after both dives and pullbacks? I would guess that if the trem has problem finding its null position, this might be magnified under stage lights.

Anyway - the only thing I can think of that would "cure" your problem for sure, is a Tremsetter. You could also block your trem, but that is a way more radical solution.

[Diego]

what the f*** is a Tremsetter ? :S

[ADR]

Blame the drummer

[ozzuk1]

Try the WD tremelo stabaliser it will go into the exsisting spring and need little and non permanent modification, also is the neck on your DK-1 set right it mgiht need some tweaking, or the thin finish on it could mean that it's fluxuating due to the stage temps...

[satyr]

Hi...How many springs are ya using??
Believe it or not, the recommendation is to use at least 4...I use to use 3 OK, but recently got better sound from 4... BUT if you are using 2 (or 3) that may be an issue...just a thought..(the farther the springs are stretched at setup, the less likely to return properly..the more the better...always loosen the strings before adding a spring...or TWANG!!!!

[j4vice]

what NewC said

[toejam]

Hi...How many springs are ya using??
Believe it or not, the recommendation is to use at least 4...I use to use 3 OK, but recently got better sound from 4... BUT if you are using 2 (or 3) that may be an issue...just a thought..(the farther the springs are stretched at setup, the less likely to return properly..the more the better...always loosen the strings before adding a spring...or TWANG!!!!

Doesn't really matter how many you use. The more you use, the stiffer the tension and the harder it is to move the Floyd. I personally prefer 4 or 5 springs, but many people have used 2 or 3 without a problem.