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Neck-through and set-neck

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  • #31
    Originally posted by kelly user View Post
    especially if you play death metal which needs no tone just a pedal, though set necks tend to be muddy, compared to the other construction methods.
    Total bullshit. I bet you know nothing about death metal, if you say so.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by kelly user View Post
      doubt it will work, seeing as every cut of wood is different sounding.
      True, but it's the closest you're gonna get.
      Sleep!!, That's where I'm a viking!!

      http://www.myspace.com/grindhouseadtheband

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      • #33
        Originally posted by zeegler View Post
        I respect Zerbs opinions, but I disagree with a lot of what he said in that link. First off, with a neck-thru guitar, the glue joint between the centre section is going to have little, if any effect whatsoever on the tone of the guitar. The strings, pickups, bridge, and tuners are all mounted to the same piece of wood. The wings of the body pretty much just add mass. Also, with a set-neck, if the joint is nice and tight, there isn't a significant amount of glue in the joint anyway. Yeah we've all seen those scary pictures of Gibson LP neck joints, but those are a worst case scenario. I also believe that the reason a bolt-neck guitar is brighter, is attributed more to a lack of low mids and bass response rather than a superior high end response. That's my opinion, and I have no proof whatsoever, so don't argue with me.
        Finally, since most set neck guitars seem to be either all-mahogany, or mahogany with maple neck, perhaps that is why they are perceived as "muddy" by some. I have an Aria Pro V that is set neck, but is a 3 piece maple neck, and very possibly a maple body. Is it muddy? HELL NO! It's actually very bright. I do agree that neck-thru guitars seem to be generally brighter, but again, it probably has more to do with the materials than anything. Every neck thru guitar I have ever owned, has had a maple centre section. Maple is bright sounding.

        Mjl927 is on the right track. The only way to have a definitive answer, is to build 3 guitars with different neck joints, but everything else the same.
        Zeegler,

        I think you just repeated my post up above

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        • #34
          This thread is a very interesting read.


          I agree with everybody.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by ambitotpuphang View Post
            Total bullshit. I bet you know nothing about death metal, if you say so.
            yea yea yea....... cookie monster, grr grr grr........ nothing to it. :ROTF:
            "slappy, slappy" bill sings, happily, as he dick slaps random people on the streets of Cleveland.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by DonP View Post
              Zeegler,

              I think you just repeated my post up above
              So I did. I hadn't read it before. You know what they say about great minds...
              Sleep!!, That's where I'm a viking!!

              http://www.myspace.com/grindhouseadtheband

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              • #37
                Personally I think the pups, then woods, then bridge, then body shape are bigger factors. For example consider the following guitars both of which feature 25.5" scales:

                Guitar #1: solid maple body (should be bright), maple neck (should be bright), v-trem bridge (should be somewhat bright), bolt-on (according to some should be brighter).

                Guitar #2: alder body (shouldn't be as bright as maple), maple neck (a push w/guitar #1), stop tail TOM (less bright than v-trem), set neck (according to some less bright than bolt-on).

                So which of those guitars is brighter? Guitar #2 is, by far, the brighter instrument, it's not a close call at all. Why?
                Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam!

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                • #38
                  Easy solution. Find a guitar that looks, plays and sounds like you want it to.

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