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  • #16
    Re: Loose Binding

    it's just airbrush frisket; i got the idea after seeing progress pix of a bigmouth graphic that someone had posted here recently. i'm just hoping that the new black and the old black is close enough in color. i guess i'll find out tomorrow, eh?

    sully
    Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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    • #17
      Re: Loose Binding

      Be real careful pulling it off and you should be OK.
      Really? well screw Mark Twain.

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      • #18
        Re: Loose Binding

        yeah, mister xacto will be assisting in the procedure... [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
        Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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        • #19
          Re: Loose Binding

          Keep us posted on the progress,I've always liked the way warlocks looked and I'm interested in how this one turns out.

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          • #20
            Re: Loose Binding

            [ QUOTE ]
            [ QUOTE ]
            It is pulling loose from the fretboard but only to about the 24th fret.Thanks for the pictures on how to clamp it.By the way how is your Warlock project coming along?

            [/ QUOTE ]

            not too bad, i've got a bit more body work to do and then prime it for good. i was working on the neck today; last week i fixed the crack in the fretboard/neck and took the finish off the back of it. i was pretty surprised to see mahogany under the black paint. i've gunstock oiled it (was surprised to learn that it's basically linseed oil with some other things as well) and today i started working on the face of the headstock; it's pretty dinged up, so i masked off the logo, filled where i needed to, and primed it. tomorrow i'll sand it flat and hit it with some black. not too sure how it's gonna come out; i've never tried to save a logo before. the mask is a little bigger than each part of the logo, so i may have to feather the new black a little bit so it matches up with the old. here's how it looks now:







            cross a finger for me, i hope this one comes out well.

            sully

            [/ QUOTE ]


            Sully, I have saved logos before, and the only thing I would have done diffently on yours, is I wouldn't have primered the whole headstock. In my experience, you probably should unmask the logo now, sand the headstock (primed), and re-mask the logo before you shoot the black base. Otherwise you may end up with a nasty primer/black "stacked" ridge around the logo. I usually mask off the logo, repair dings, etc., then spot prime on the repaired areas only. Then when you shoot the black base it will blend with the little bit of black you left around the logo. After clear and buffing, nobody will ever notice it. Just my two pennies!
            My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.

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            • #21
              Re: Loose Binding

              those are some really valuable pennies, imo. i was originally thinking of maybe masking around the headstock, but leaving a high wall around the perimiter and building the chips back up with clear. once hardened, i'd sand it all flat and touch up where i needed to with black, then reclear, but thought that may be a waste of clear. i wasn't a fan of priming the whole thing, but thought that maybe i should. the mask isn't dead on to the letters; some of the original black is still masked, so i thought that when i was ready to sand the primer, i'd take the mask off, sand the primer so that it's feathered out to the center (i need the edges primed the most, and shoot the black as one would shoot a burst, if that makes any sense...?

              that said, i think i'm gonna use those two cents of yours...thanks man.
              Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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              • #22
                Re: Loose Binding

                Just post pics when it's done! Knowing you, it'll look awesome.
                My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.

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