Went shopping for refin stuff today. How'd I do?

[fett]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

Try this http://cgi.ebay.com/Heavy-Rubber-NBC-Haz...1QQcmdZViewItem [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

[sully]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

yeah, we're gonna have a sticky on this. actually, i'm kinda workin on making a tech page for the resources section of the board. mark's workin on some content, and dino, i'd like for you to chime in with some of your rattlecan tips. i know you don't do that anymore, but if some of the pix you've posted were done with rattlecans, i have a feeling you've got a lot to say on that matter.

i've also found a few sites that have pretty good prices on guns, paints, and the like, and i'll add that stuff too.

one of the last of my paint projects will be shot with water based createx paint. sadly, you can't have water based clears that harden like catalyzed urethane, but createx paint is MUCH cheaper than buying auto paint, and this may be a nice option for some of you guys.

sully

[sully]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

oh, and as far as that mask goes, that'll do ya just fine, imo.

[mm2002]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
I can't tell you how great this thread is. Definitley a sticky. Ive been exposed to 22 years of second-hand smoke; brake dust; formaldyhide (sp); 30 years of leaded gas; 40 years of assorted paint fumes and I smoke. I am a lost cause. I hold my breath when I paint. It works, but only for about 30 seconds. But, you young pups take heed. Live to be 150. [img]/images/graemlins/headbang.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/headbang.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, I can only hope this "whole" thread doesn't become a sticky. Especially the part where I called Model1VH2 a "fucking dumbass". [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
Man, sometimes I really have a way with words...... [img]/images/graemlins/baby.gif[/img]

[Racerx2k]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
How much would a compressor setup cost? With this first guitar, I think I'll stick to Krylons simply because it's my first refin, and going full blown would be a waste of money. I'll learn some of the handywork with the krylons, then move on up to the compressors.

BTW, would this kind of respirator work for shooting two-part polys?



Here's my first victim:


I hate the way the guitar looks. It looks like the basic outline of a strat was cut out and painted, almost no curve to the edges. I think I might just try to round it out like a Schecter. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all of the responses so far, they've all been most helpful.

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, I can see your problem: It's a Series 10. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

I remeber thos guitars. In fact, I had TWO Series 10s, one was similar to THAT one, a Jackson knockoff, the other was a strat knockoff. I DO have to say, the strat knockoff was one heavy mother! I actually modded it: Put on a Kahler, a custom skull and crossbones pickguard, and a Warmoth Explorer-style reverse neck. Actually played kinda nice, when I was done with it. Got a pic of me, back in the day, on the front page of one of the sections, in my local paper. They featured my band and two others.......ah, those were the days. [img]/images/graemlins/band.gif[/img]

[metallicarocks]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

That's what I'm trying to do with this guitar: make it playable and presentable. It actually plays pretty nice, it just sounds and looks like ass. I got it for $75, so if I fuck it up in the process I won't be too depressed. I think it makes a good first project guitar. If I mess up, whoops, I learned.

Again thanks for all of your insight!

[Bengal65]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
oh, and as far as that mask goes, that'll do ya just fine, imo.

[/ QUOTE ]
+1 Looks like a 3M 6000 series. I use those a lot when shooting Poly.

[metallicarocks]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

Ah fuck, this is confusing as fuck! I've got my wood prepped. I've sanded it down so that there is no finish left on it whatsoever, I've gone down to 220 grit. Not extremely fine, but the book I'm using says it should work. Now I really don't know what to do next.

The book I'm using is "Guitar Player Repair Guide". I bought it for general shit, but when I got it home I noticed it had a refinish section. guitarproject.com didn't have any tutorials for what I wanted to do.

My goal here is to round out my guitar to look more like a Schecter, paint the top dark red and the rest of the body and neck black. How hard should this be? I just want a solid color, no wood grain detail peeping through. Why should the color of the stain I put on apply? I don't give a fuck, it's going to be painted over anyway. The book (and any other tutorial literature for that matter) goes into so much detail on all of the really cool finishes and complex finishes that there's nothing left for the simple shit that I want to do! I quite frankly don't give a fuck about making this guitar look like a vintage what-the-fuck-ever.

This is a bad point to realize that I don't know what I'm doing. Even worse, I can't see how to figure that much out!

[sully]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

- fill dings and dents with wood filler or bondo
- apply sand and sealer and sand flat again
- a few light coats of primer until you've got coverage and sand flat using 400 dry, then 600 wet.
- color coats (just enough so that you've got coverage), and sand flat using 800 wet.
- a few light coats of clear
- after that coat has set up (30 min or so) shoot a medium coat of clear and repeat as needed until you've got enough buildup to sand. there's a good "3 coats for 3 days" rule of thumb, but imo, you may need more.

there's more detailed info out there; check out www.reranch.com and read up on "reranch 101."

[Racerx2k]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

I also have Dan Erlewine's book, and recommend it to anyone planning on doing their own guitar work, however, don't get TOO caught up in the finish tutorials, as alot of it does not apply to what oyu are doing. Under the FINISHES section, you want to pay particular attention to the LAKE PLACID BLUE METALLIC SOLIDBODY FINISH portion, as it is NOT a burst, or any kind of opaque finish, but an actual solid color finish. Now, he is using acrylic laquer, and I'm assumiing you, like me, might be using enamel paints, but I'm guessing that his finish schedule for that one would suit BOTH of us just fine. If you notice, step two is skipped, because no stain is needed. My guess is that you never got that far, because you eyes began to glaze over, at all the information, and you brain shut down. lol. That's okay, just take a breathe, go back, and read, knowing you MAY not use all the info you read.
Sully, I notice you mention alot of FINER grit papers, than I would think would be used. for instance, you are saying to use 800 grit, wet, prior to topcoat, when, for instance Erlewine says, in that very same book, to use 320. I'm wondering if going so fine is going to cause issues, trying to get the paints to adhere, properly. Any insights on this?

[sully]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

the first thing that jumped out at me was your mention of using enamel paint. don't. the stuff takes a million years to dry (way longer than lacquer) and isn't at all durable. stick with lacquer.

as far as using finer grits goes, well you certainly want to use the lower grits on the primer (400 and 600 wet), but the only time i'd ever use 320 on a color coat is if i wanted to remove it. as you progress in the paint process, your grits escalate; 220 - 320 for bare wood, 400-600 for primer, 800 - 1000 for color, 1200 - 2500 for clear.

although if you're using rattle cans, you may need to go a little lower because the paint is thicker and you'll probably have more orange peel occurences than if you were shooting it from a gun. that said, i still probably wouldn't want to use anything lower than 600 on it. once you get a few of them under your belt, it can seem like 1000 grit is the equivalent of 100 grit sometimes (especially when mister sandthrough comes over for a visit!).
you don't want to put too many coats of color on it; you can be good to go with 2 coats of color in many cases. you want to put on as little as you need to get the job done, imo. the thinner the finish before clear, the better, especially if you're using rattle cans.

sully

[sully]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

k, looking at that section on lake placid blue; he's talking about using 320 to take the edge and dust off of it. 320 is still WAY grittier than i'd consider using on a color coat, but he's basically suggesting what's called a scuff coat; you're just taking the edge off of the finish. you'll notice in the next sentence that he mentions sand throughs; let's guess why? [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

that said, dan rules the earth. i just wouldn't use 320 on a color coat. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[Racerx2k]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

Yeah, I took that as a scuff coat issue, which is why I questioned going with such a finer grit, as opposed to, like, 320. As for laquer versus enamel, I am sticking with Krylon (assuming I decide to still go the rattlecan route), as opposed to laquer, for two reasons: 1)I am under the impression that enamel is more durable than laquer, and 2)Krylon enamels have been recommended by those before me, that have had great success in doing this very kind of refin.

[Bengal65]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

For grins, I'm posting pics of my spray booth that was in my living room. I've been using it for the last 4 years. It's now in the family room to get more space. It's made from 1" X 4", some plastic sheet, masonite and is 4' X 4' X 8' tall. It uses a Range Hood I got from Home Depot. The roof comes off and the entire unit folds flat for storage. (Hinged together) It's done 12 guitars, 16 necks, 4 motorcycle frames, 6 motorcycle tanks, car parts, etc. from Nitro to Urethane polys, to Krylon. As you can see I have very light colored carpet, so no worries. This babe is air tight. I have to redo the exhaust ducting since I have moved it but it still works. I just open the window, move the blank into position, slide the window down to lock it in place and go.


This little compressor does everything except Poly Primers (thick stuff, not enough cfm). I switch to my 5 horse compressor in the garage for Poly primers. I have to run a hose from the garage to the back of the house. It's a pain, but quieter. I'm still improving on the air tightness (dust/lint control) and always is a work in progress.

[sully]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
Yeah, I took that as a scuff coat issue, which is why I questioned going with such a finer grit, as opposed to, like, 320. As for laquer versus enamel, I am sticking with Krylon (assuming I decide to still go the rattlecan route), as opposed to laquer, for two reasons: 1)I am under the impression that enamel is more durable than laquer, and 2)Krylon enamels have been recommended by those before me, that have had great success in doing this very kind of refin.

[/ QUOTE ]

the krylon stuff i've seen and used was lacquer. they do have enamel as well, but i'm pretty sure they do both.

i'm still standing by the 320 is way too gritty for color coats; if you have to shoot another color coat over something you sanded w/320, you'll probably have scratches showing through. at least you do w/automotive urethanes

sully