Paintyourownguitar.com -- sorry if a repost

[mm2002]

Re: Paintyourownguitar.com -- sorry if a repost

[ QUOTE ]
All I know is after doing a couple paint jobs and refinns myself I now use pay.someone.else.to.paint.my.guitars.because.its.t oo.much.fucking.work.com
[img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

Shawn....I think I like you after all!!! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/toast.gif[/img]

[mm2002]

Re: Paintyourownguitar.com -- sorry if a repost

....oh and Matt......ya know I love ya bro........but I've seen your paint work. [img]/images/graemlins/brow.gif[/img]

[Newc]

Re: Paintyourownguitar.com -- sorry if a repost

No, you've seen pictures of my paint *experiments* - the only things I've painted are the Killer-ripoff body and a Vantage Flying V, which are both "getting to know you" projects to learn how to actually do it myself.
Unless you're referring to the Warbird Warrior Pro where the plate lines and rivets were done with Testors paint? I didn't expect that one to come out right anyway given the watery nature of the paint.
My original plan was to scrape it and redo it correctly, but it sold before then.
Other than that, no one's seen any of my finished paint results because they aren't finished yet.

However, I should point out that simply because I haven't been issued a document in any given field does not mean I don't know anything about it.

[sully]

Re: Paintyourownguitar.com -- sorry if a repost

[ QUOTE ]
If I paint 5 guitar with cans I won't buy 5-guitars-worth of cans at the same time, though, so the analogy of spending the same amount for a compressor and a gun is kinda null - $300 today in one lump vs $300 over a couple of years makes a big difference.

Thanks for the tip on not using the can till it spits and spurts - hadn't thought about that before but it makes sense.



[/ QUOTE ]

one other thing to consider is your time; from what i've heard of the book (from what you've posted) these projects can take months to finish because you have to wait for the finish to cure. if all goes well, you can have a guitar from primer to wetsanding in a week and a half (again, if all goes well! i'm still waitin for that one! lol )

also, the stuff you shoot in guns don't SEEM to be as susceptible to weather and humidity because it hardens faster. that's not to say that you can shoot in the garage when it's been pouring outside, but it doesn't seem to be as much of a factor, which is nice.

no prob on the rattle can tip; i didn't think about that one either, but you essentially have to buy twice as many cans.

please don't get me wrong, i'm counting the days until i don't have to paint another guitar, but i've used cans and guns, and while guns have a MUCH larger learning curve and require more maintenance than a rattle can does, you'll get better and longer lasting results with spray guns.

anyway, good times.

[mm2002]

Re: Paintyourownguitar.com -- sorry if a repost

I'll repeat what Sully said...Good Times!
Not to knock anyones efforts, nor to try and be the almighty "paint god" (I still learn every day!), but here are the facts in the real world:

1. There are no substitutes for two-part catalyzed paints.
2. There is no way to pack these into spray cans.
3. Solids content is everything, thinner reduces this.
4. Spray cans require highly "thinned" paint mixtures so they can actually spray them. If hardners (catalists) were present they would harden in the can.
5. Non-catalyzed paint is thin, brittle, and wears quickly. (and it takes forever for the solvents to evaporate, leaving behind only that thin brittle layer of solids)
6. Catalyzed paint (or clear) is impervious to almost everything including thinners, gasoline, body acids, UV radiation, atomic bombs, (well...maybe not!(*, and it uses very little solvents so when it hardens you retain a greater thickness of solids.

For anyone having a hard time comprehending all this, please try this little experiment:

What you'll need:
1. A bottle of Elmers Glue
2. A package of 5 minute epoxy. (looks like a double syringe)
3. An ordinary piece of notebook paper.

Now, squirt a big glob of elmers on one half of the notebook paper.
Next, squirt out the same sized glob of the epoxy on the other half. (it will be two parts so you'll have to mix them together)
Let the paper sit for 2 hours and check it out.
The Elmers depends on evaporation to harden, the epoxy uses a chemical reaction that hardens it from the inside out.
Need more proof?.....check it again in a couple of days.
Which one would you rather have for a guitar finish?

[Reverend Timmy]

Re: Paintyourownguitar.com -- sorry if a repost

Shawn,that is too funny.I just about spit my beer all over the screen when I saw your post [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]......

[DonP]

Re: Paintyourownguitar.com -- sorry if a repost

[ QUOTE ]
I'll repeat what Sully said...Good Times!
Not to knock anyones efforts, nor to try and be the almighty "paint god" (I still learn every day!), but here are the facts in the real world:

1. There are no substitutes for two-part catalyzed paints.
2. There is no way to pack these into spray cans.
3. Solids content is everything, thinner reduces this.
4. Spray cans require highly "thinned" paint mixtures so they can actually spray them. If hardners (catalists) were present they would harden in the can.
5. Non-catalyzed paint is thin, brittle, and wears quickly. (and it takes forever for the solvents to evaporate, leaving behind only that thin brittle layer of solids)
6. Catalyzed paint (or clear) is impervious to almost everything including thinners, gasoline, body acids, UV radiation, atomic bombs, (well...maybe not!(*, and it uses very little solvents so when it hardens you retain a greater thickness of solids.

For anyone having a hard time comprehending all this, please try this little experiment:

What you'll need:
1. A bottle of Elmers Glue
2. A package of 5 minute epoxy. (looks like a double syringe)
3. An ordinary piece of notebook paper.

Now, squirt a big glob of elmers on one half of the notebook paper.
Next, squirt out the same sized glob of the epoxy on the other half. (it will be two parts so you'll have to mix them together)
Let the paper sit for 2 hours and check it out.
The Elmers depends on evaporation to harden, the epoxy uses a chemical reaction that hardens it from the inside out.
Need more proof?.....check it again in a couple of days.
Which one would you rather have for a guitar finish?

[/ QUOTE ]

Where does tone fit into this equation? I've had it bred into me that Gibson nitro laquer is the god of finishes because tone come thru, the wood breathes (sp? it's late), yada yada. Thick catalized finishes supposed to be tone killers. Thin hard glass like finishes supposed to be best for tone.

Reason I ask is that I have a bunch of nitro in cans, and I was thinking of finishing my guitar in black nitro for a tone monster.

But, the other side of me want some killer graphics, which means a heavy coat of paint and farming the job out to a pro.

[mm2002]

Re: Paintyourownguitar.com -- sorry if a repost

Tone?....It's a compromise one must decide on. To my ears and eyes the nearly inaudible difference in tone is well worth a nice paint job. To the real tone junkies I suppose a light coat of sealer on bare wood would be best.