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1986 Model 5 upgrades/recommendations

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  • 1986 Model 5 upgrades/recommendations

    Hi all, long time scroller first time poster!

    I bought an '86 model 5 at the beginning of 2020 and haven't had the time to really invest in doing any upgrades or repairs until recently and was wondering what pickup recommendations you all had? The stock J80c's and JE-1200 while interesting just don't cut the mustard for me tone wise. This is my first neck thru guitar and first Kahler (not as annoying as I thought but I wish it had the locking screw like the newer ones do) and was planning on going in a heavier (C#) direction as far as playing goes. I'd like to stay passive but I'm open to active recommendations as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    Work performed (so far):
    • Installed Sperzel locking tuners
    • replaced cam and springs on Kahler, thinking about replacing rollers as well but current ones (which I assume are original) still have roll to them
    • Will be installing Graphtech nut, debating whether or not to install string lock.
    • Rubbed neck down with tried & true since previous owner had stripped off the paint, which if I'm going to be honest I definitely enjoy the look and feel of it over a finished neck
    Current Fiddles: 1986 Charvel Model 5, 1997 Jackson DK2 Dinky, 1997 Ibanez RG7620, 1997 Ibanez PGM30

  • #2
    Model 5's the best neck in the older model series, hands down IMO! Pickups are a personal deal really, I don't mind working with what I get in a guitar. Kahler.. ugh got one on an 86 USA but i've kept it forever, despite not liking the bridge. Good luck bro
    I know the old saying that the value of an opinion is generally inversely proportional to the strength with which it is held.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by john.w.lawson View Post
      Model 5's the best neck in the older model series, hands down IMO! Pickups are a personal deal really, I don't mind working with what I get in a guitar. Kahler.. ugh got one on an 86 USA but i've kept it forever, despite not liking the bridge. Good luck bro
      The neck is absolutely unreal!! I will say, I really enjoy how low action I can get with the kahler but I really wish this had a floyd since that's what I'm used to. I definitely plan on keeping this guitar for a few decades regardless, cheers friend!
      Current Fiddles: 1986 Charvel Model 5, 1997 Jackson DK2 Dinky, 1997 Ibanez RG7620, 1997 Ibanez PGM30

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Ctras743 View Post

        The neck is absolutely unreal!! I will say, I really enjoy how low action I can get with the kahler but I really wish this had a floyd since that's what I'm used to. I definitely plan on keeping this guitar for a few decades regardless, cheers friend!
        Just watched some drop C shredding (well playing) with DiMarzio® D Activator Link =

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcrrt3ocbaM

        I've had an 18 volt EMG in a 6 that was pretty crunchy too
        I know the old saying that the value of an opinion is generally inversely proportional to the strength with which it is held.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by john.w.lawson View Post

          Just watched some drop C shredding (well playing) with DiMarzio® D Activator Link =

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcrrt3ocbaM

          I've had an 18 volt EMG in a 6 that was pretty crunchy too
          D Activators are very high on my list currently, I have DiMarzio’s in all my other guitars and haven’t been disappointed so far.
          Current Fiddles: 1986 Charvel Model 5, 1997 Jackson DK2 Dinky, 1997 Ibanez RG7620, 1997 Ibanez PGM30

          Comment


          • #6
            don't forget about low-output PAF style pickups. they can work really well for low tunings, especially with the active boost controls or an overdrive pedal. I have a j-50bc in one jackson and a dimarzio paf 36th in my parts strat. kahlers on both guitars. very crunchy.

            if you're down tuning and using big strings (larger than .048) you'll want to replace the roller on the low string with the "large size" roller and the string hook with the "wide hook"
            brass: https://www.whammyparts.com/make-mod...r-large-detail
            black teflon: https://www.whammyparts.com/make-mod...-teflon-detail
            wide string hook:https://www.whammyparts.com/make-mod...ok-wide-detail

            I recommend keeping the string lock in place as well. with the headstock the way it is, I can guarantee binding at the nut even with a graphtech. the only time you can get away without a lock is if you have an inline headstock like a strat.

            since this is your first kahler I'll almost mention some basic things:
            - install the ball ends into the hooks in a consistent way; don't just jam them in there. get the circumference of the ball to be cradled by the curve of the hook end of the bridge.
            - before inserting the ball end into the saddle, put a "j-bend" into the string at the wraps using a needle nose. try to get the bend to match the curvature of the string as it sits over the cam.
            - keep everything oiled/lubed
            - using "reinforced" strings may be beneficial depending on how much you use the whammy. reinforced strings have more stable wraps at the ball end to prevent shifting/movement. example: SIT strings

            edit: found my older post with more complete kahler cam advice: https://www.jcfonline.com/forum/equi...75#post2539275
            Last edited by metalhobo; 03-12-2022, 09:54 AM.

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            • #7
              Learn to solder the ball ends, keeps strings from breaking. cheaper then special strings. graphite works wonders on nut and roller pins aplied before new strings are installed.

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              • #8
                In a recent archeological dig through this chicks junk / storage space, she reached in and pulled out a red and black crackle 1995 Japanese HSS Jackson GTX series by Kaman Strat with two EMG Hz Single Coil Pickups White and Black Conductors on the Middle Pickup and Yellow and black on the Neck Single C oil and one Humbucker. The Humbucker only has a White, Red & Bare conductor, so it stands to reason that it is an active EMG Humbucker. I had to completely rewired the guitar, repair insanely damaged 11th & 12th frets, level and polish the fret's, fill the bolt on neck screw holes with maple dowels and reseat the heel joint. She has a Rosewood Fretboard w/ Shark Tooth Inlays, 22 frets, and a KMD non locking Trem Bridge with Roller Saddles that Fine Tune (but no locking nut). Am I correct in assuming this Humbucker Pickup is actually an active pickup? I had to carefully probe the blue sheath that encompasses the Bridge Pickup's White and Bare Conductors to locate the Red Wire that goes to the positive side of the 9vDC battery. DC Resistance between the White Conductor and the Bare Conductor= 16.6Kohms of resistance. The serial number is on the neck joint plate and reads: 557776. Any info on the factory specs would be immensely appreciated. Thank You.

                Comment


                • #9
                  HSH pickups made in Japan through about 98 Should have a JT-580LP double locking system, bridge and nut. Came with jackson logo'd pickups, nice whatever kinda trans finish thats called.

                  As for EMG's red goes straight to the battery White goes to switch and bare ground (which you really don't need to ground them) an HZ EMG is non active and neither would be stock to the guitar.






                  EDIT. I was talking about the Jackson ATX, I don't know what the GTX is, looks like it might be by another brand which belongs in another thread, guitars by other manufacturers.
                  Last edited by john.w.lawson; 03-15-2022, 06:17 AM.
                  I know the old saying that the value of an opinion is generally inversely proportional to the strength with which it is held.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I also have an 86 model 5. It's my favorite guitar. The Khaler is nice for setting up, but playing I prefer the floyd.

                    I have a J50BC in the bridge and it sounds awesome! I think J50N for the neck. I barely use neck pickups, so whatever, I couldn't tell you tone wise how I feel.

                    I tried locking tuners and removing the string lock - it didn't work well.

                    I used ernie ball slinkies on it for a long time, but they didn't ever do well staying in tune (even with soldered ends). I use dadarrio XLs on it now and it's great. Come to think of it, I tried no string lock with EBs, so maybe it would work?

                    I'm glad you're loving it. They have amazing necks!

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