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I want to paint my guitar in some other color, but I want to do it myself. Which paint is for guitars, nitro or acryl ?
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Just an FYI,there is an e-book out the on how to paint your guitar and get a factory finish.
About paints, I've heard to stay away from enamel. Nitro is fine.
Are you doing a rattle can paint job? -
Here. http://www.reranch.com/basics.htm
Read "reranch 101" about 8 million times. Then read it again. Do all of that before you do anything to your guitar. Then move on to the more specialized stuff on the page.
Keep these things in mind:
1. If this is your first time doing this, you're going to mess stuff up.
2. Be patient. Once you have all of your clear coats on, don't even entertain the idea of starting the wetsanding and buffing process until it's sat for at least 4-6 weeks. The lacquer from spray cans takes a long time to gas off. If it still smells like spray paint, leave it alone. There will be an urge to start sanding it after it's sat for a week or so; you can go through the sanding and buffing process, and it'll look good for about 2 weeks - and then you'll notice that the finish sank into the wood. Let. It. Sit.
3. There is no way to do this properly "on the cheap." Not saying that's what you're looking for; I'm just sayin.
4. Be patient (yep, again). Don't try to rush any of this; your final result is dependent upon your prep work.
You can use Nitro lacquer or acryllic lacquer; these days, they're practically the same. You can use the Duplicolor stuff that you can find in places like Autozone, but do NOT get anything that says "enamel" on the can. The stewmac and ReRanch lacquers are good quality and worth the extra money to use them. Even if you just use their clears.
And take the "paint your own guitar with rattle cans and get a factory finish" stuff with a grain of salt. Can it be done? Sure, if you know what you're doing. Will it be as durable as a factory finish? Not even close.
Once you've got it all done, keep it off of guitar stands unless you put a cloth over the stand; most of the stands out there have rubber that will react with lacquer clear coats and leave marks after it's sat on the stand for awhile.
Finally, the most important lesson you learn when you get into refinishing is the value of paying a pro to do it.
SullyComment
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While I've never painted a guitar myself, I've had enough of them done by Mike Learn to know I'd rather leave it to the professionals like him.Originally posted by sully View PostFinally, the most important lesson you learn when you get into refinishing is the value of paying a pro to do it.Comment
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Even if you cant afford the pro services of many top painters, drop by a local auto body shop and see what they can do. My local painter (besides painting my wife's car way too often) has done some great solid color jobs on a few guitars for a great price!Comment
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I've been thinking about that lately. Are these new builds or refins? How much prep is required to the body? I have too many black guitars and something in a lurid orange beckonsOriginally posted by vklobucar View Post
Hail yesterdayComment
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Usually the car guys are cheaper, but my experience with car guys (a few) is that they're not as attentive to detail. In their regular work (cars), they don't have to wetsand 1/2 as much as you do with a guitar; a certain amount orange peel seems to be perfectly acceptable. You can get a pro guitar finish for around $300; once you factor in materials and your time, you're not too far off from paying a pro (who will do a much better job in less time).Comment
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With refins, a lot of car guys will use the original finish as the sealer. Sand it flat, fill any dings, and shoot over it. If you bring them raw wood, it needs to be sealed, primed, then color and clear.Originally posted by VitaminG View PostI've been thinking about that lately. Are these new builds or refins? How much prep is required to the body? I have too many black guitars and something in a lurid orange beckonsComment
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cool, thanks sullyHail yesterdayComment
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