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  • #16
    I was reading up on all the Floyd and copy bridges that have been made last night, as well as parts cats and yeah you can get the brass screws and bar assembly.

    After comparing all the Ibanez Edge, Copies, offshoots, Licensed Floyds, ect and reading threads and every bodies opinions and a lot of false information . Honestly imo the Floyd original is still the best design out there, (except for the way the bar is attached in my personal opinion.)

    I hadn't heard about the new Schaller "Lockmeister" Floyd out though, and missed a thread here on it too. Looks like a good option for buying a new Floyd, nothing different about it except it's supposed to be of a harder material. Not that i've ever had a problem with the hardness of the original Floyds metal - So that one, the Original, or the Gotoh - and i can appreciate the standard Schaller floyd as well even though i don't like the idea of the metal inserts, and even if it's supposed to be a cheaper metal base, it does feel solid and weighty which is nice. Plus the locking screws not protruding out the back is probably one of the best things changed on a Floyd. But these are all basically near or exact copies to the bridge that has been the same and has just worked for millions since it came to be.

    Ibanez has made some cool innovations in theory, and i've only ever briefly tried those bridges at Guitar Center or friends guitars but overall it still seems like the most revered version of the Edge is the first one that basically copies the Floyd pretty much to a T but just looks different.

    So the main reason i say the old staple design is the best is - it just works as advertised. It's solid, and they will last and last and last. I've never had one go dull or not stay in tune or break..not that they don't ever but. I have 20 year old Floyds that work perfectly, and it doesn't have a thousand little parts to it that wear out, it's simple and efficient. While i looked and compared the Ibanez bridges i found a jillion people that had some part break or needed to replace for them, even seen a picture of one cracked in half? Dunno if it was a higher end version of the edge, but ..Try and crack a floyd in half! But this is partly i'm sure due to the sheer amount of people that play Ibanez and it being the internet but still, from my perception most people that have a problem with a Floyd Original seems to be people that just don't know how to set them up or some other obscure issue, and less to due with the unit itself.

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    • #17
      Well I finally installed the "1984" and I must say it does feel very different from a Korean Floyd (owned like 5 or 6 USA ProMods) and the OFR that was on the EVH Art Series I owned. I LOVE the screw on arm (never had one before) and there is a certain buttery feeling to it, even though I maintained the claw, screws and springs form the Korean unit, the feeling is totally different. Only thing I could complain about is that the big brass block limits my up-pull a bit more than i like. Almost done with my upgrades and when the brass volume knob and proper string retainer get in I will be posting some pics. I say thumbs up on the 1984. I was able to get it for $220 shipped, I think that was pretty reasonable.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Trem View Post
        I thought about just trying to bend one straight too. I know for almost a fact my old bar was basically straight from the screw on part to the end. It might have been an after market bar but it was like 20 years ago. I could push it down far enough to touch the body, but at that point the string were totally slack so it didn't hamper anything at all. Also my memory tells me it was nice and heavy, the ones today almost feel like they flex a little when you push down on them. At any rate, it's kept me from using my floyds anymore - hell maybe that's a good thing, lol.
        its not a complicated job, but the key is asking the metal to move with light taps and not forcing it to with gung-ho-fuck-you-you-upward-pointed-hard-on-bar whacks. thatll cause it to break within the first few dive bombs. trust me.
        Let me tell you about a porcupine's balls.... They're small, and they don't give a shit!

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        • #19
          Originally posted by jacksonkellyfreak View Post
          its not a complicated job, but the key is asking the metal to move with light taps and not forcing it to with gung-ho-fuck-you-you-upward-pointed-hard-on-bar whacks. thatll cause it to break within the first few dive bombs. trust me.


          I'll probably just try that.
          Was also looking at just a standard fender style bar, which is more straight and using it with the screw in assembly and just taking the handle thingy off.
          In fact that might have been what i did back then... I just know when i came back to playing and got my first Floyd again i was like wtf is this shit, so it lead me to believe it wasn't like that before.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by horns666 View Post
            Steal The Light
            Q5
            "clean sounds are for pussies" - Axewielder

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            • #21
              those damn Floyd rose trems. dont you fuckers know that they have all kinds of problems and are a pain in the ass to take care of?
              "clean sounds are for pussies" - Axewielder

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              • #22
                The bar does seem to be more level with the body....

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                • #23
                  Here`s my EVH Art Series fitted out with a 1984 bridge.. If you notice I put the modern bar holder on instead of the retro screw in ( just prefer it.) But the brass block and the fine tuners just sets the paintjob off nicely

                  BTW In order to make the huge brass block fit correctly, I had to shave a bit of wood from the back of the trem rout. Just bear that in mind if anyone attemps this.



                  www.vendetta-theband.com
                  www.atomhawk.com

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