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  • #16
    Yes, it does matter what order they go back in. From memory, 2 are your high and low E - 1 is your A and B and the unmarked are the D and G. You could do it by sight on a flat surface, making sure you get a curve from low to high.

    The bits of brass at the bottom of the saddles often fall out, I'm sure you could fiddle about and re fit them, I never bothered.

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    • #17
      You can get new Schaller baseplate from Rockinger. it comes with saddle mounting screws and has reinforced threads on it.

      http://www.rockinger.com/index.php?list=WG075

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      • #18
        Originally posted by dg View Post
        An OFR will overhang the rear of the recess because of the longer locking screws. I'm not sure, but a Gotoh probably will as well.

        it will, had to extend the route to put one in a PS-4

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        • #19
          Originally posted by steve304 View Post
          Looks like the main problem is that two of the saddles are frozen at the joint that is supposed to bend, one string block is practically destroyed at the screw hole end, and just rust in general was creating the issues with screws not tightening down. So right now I am breaking it all down, working on getting the rusty parts clean and I am going to soak the two frozen saddles in oil. After that I will be repainting/clearing the parts that need it.

          Question- anyone know what the underside of the original saddles for this bridge should look like? I think the two that are frozen may be replacements. Four of the saddles have a little brass plate under the string block, the other two do not. Some are numbered and some aren't. From low to high they are marked as 2 (no brass), 1 (no brass), nothing (brass, nothing (brass), 1 (brass), 2 (brass). Does it really matter if they go back on in this order? Are they even original saddles?

          any other advice on getting this thing back in order?
          After soaking the 2 saddles for a while in oil, try using 2 crescent wrenches on either end to move the frozen joint back and forth. Then hit it w more oil.

          String blocks do not last forever and need to be replaced, and are pretty cheap, so I'd spring for a new set.

          The saddles should form a gentle arc when viewed in profile, which ideally should match the radius of the neck. The little brass plates are there to prevent the blocks from falling thru the saddle when the string is removed or when the saddle is taken off the bridge. They get lost all the time and are not necessary.

          The screws that hold the saddles to the bridge (intonation screws) get rusty quite easily and are cheap to replace. Where these screws lock down in the trem baseplate is prone to stripping and is the one weakpoint of the Schaller trem comapred to an OFR. If it is stripped, there are tap and die kits available for good proces that use good inserts making it good or better than new. Someone here got some off ebay w good results.
          Honestly, this is a good trem, and aside from the above comments, does not need upgrading. If you're set on replacing it, get the same schaller-made kind in a better condition (this way, you know it'll fit), and make sure there are no stripped holes. You may need to change the block w the one you have if they are different heights, but you know they can interchange without any probs.
          "Your work is ingenius…it’s quality work….and there are simply too many notes…that’s all, just cut a few, and it’ll be perfect."

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          • #20
            Yeah, once I got it apart and started cleaning it I realized it was in pretty decent shape. Nothing stripped, just rusty as hell. bent all the arms up and got the two saddles un-frozen so now all the fine tuners work properly again. Getting ready to finish cleaning up the last few rusty spots and repaint it. Only thing I need now is new string blocks, but as I really only have one that is bad I don't think I want to pay 40$ for titanium (and why would anyone pay 800$ for titanium saddles, wouldnt FOUR replacement trems last just as long? lol). Floydupgrades.com doesn't seem to have plain old string blocks, any idea where I can get them? I am guessing stewmac.com but for some reason I havent been able to get the site to come up for two days. :think:

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            • #21
              Direct link to the Stewmac Floyd saddle string lock block page:

              http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,...g_Tremolo.html
              I want to depart this world the same way I arrived; screaming and covered in someone else's blood

              The most human thing we can do is comfort the afflicted and afflict the comfortable.

              My Blog: http://newcenstein.com

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              • #22
                That worked. Thank you sir.

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