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Woohoo, woods on the way and ordering nitro/color tomorrow. One issue in my head about glue. Does orig. titebond dry clear? I know elmers really doesn't. Don't want to have any dark line at the bookmatch. I assume running them through the jointer will make it so tight/close that it'll be ok anyway but just want to leave as much idiot-proofing in the mix as possible. I saw in lowes titebond for molding and trim that says it dries clear. Barring any objections I'm gonna give that a try.
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Every man dies... Not every man really lives!! -
seriously, get the regular titebond. it dries yellow, but you're going to sand the top/seam after you remove the clamps anyway. if you glue it properly, there's gonna be excess, but you'll sand it off and it doesn't tint the wood.
run it through the jointer and hold the pieces together in front of a light. you do NOT want to see gaps in that seam. if you do, it's not ready for gluing. once you've got no light passing through the seam, you're ready to glue. that said, if you don't have enough side pressure, you're gonna have an ugly seam. found that one out myself. it blew, but was fixable.
sullyComment
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Yeah, I was reading about the clear stuff and it says something about "not soaking into the wood as much as...." which I was not looking to hear. I definitely want a.... well... tite-bond. I'll get the orig stuff. I'm going to do it exactly how that video you posted did. Looked like it'd work perfect. Ordering the logo and the nitro/sealer tonight. Now to wait for parts, the worst part of any project...
And I really do appreciate the help/opinions!!!Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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Wow. Not sure that the rotozip base is going to get the job done on shaving the top for the thickness of the maple. Hard to keep level at all. Gonna try a friends router and see how that goes. If not, I may wind up doing what you told me to do when I was thinking about shaving the back of the neck (which I'm not doing). Using the router to make accurate depth "gauge holes" for lack of a better term, and going at it with the RO sander and some 50 grit. Tried that with some 120 grit and worked fine, just slower. Good thing I have a practice body!!Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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If you mean the area around the fretboard, you could secure a piece of straight (joined if you can) MDF on top of the fretboard (make sure it follows the fretboard angle) and use a bearing bit. Sit the router on top of the fretboard, and then the bearing can ride the edge of the MDF. Either that, or take a Floyd block, and double stick tape some 80 grit to it, and sand the area around the neck down.
If you mean the body in general, you can make a box that's taller than the body, mount a router to another board, and use that to rout the top down. Something like this:
This was a pic I got from the mylespaul.com forum. There's a luthier section in there that flat out rules.
sullyComment
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It's any part of the body is a problem with this tool. The rotozip kit i bought had a base that I thought was a router attachment. I was wrong. And the standard plastic base is too flexible and small to stay straight vertical to shave it evenly across the body. I want to buy the router base for it anyway but looking around, they are either out of stock or discontinued. Sux... I'm going to borrow a friends router and try it out. I was thinking about something like that pic^^^ and I'm sure it will work well. Worst case I'll do gauging plunge holes and sand. It only took a few minutes to do about a 5x5" section and it's pretty accurate. But I'm gonna try the router box first.Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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Made the box similar to that one ^^^ that should work great. Thanks for the idea!! That'll help a ton!Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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you bet! just make sure every surface is level and perfectly flat.Comment
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New question - Collecting up stuff while waiting on the shipped things. Can't find locally any fine sandpaper over about 320 without spending a mint. Online I've found many combo packs but nothing with everything I need. I was planning on sanding 800 up to 2000 then buffing/polishing but I can EITHER get packs of 220-800 OR 1000-3000 (3-4 sheets of each grit, total 18 sheets per pack) for about $9 each shipped. Which should I grab, or both? Just get the higher and start at 1000 instead of 800?? This is all for after a month of drying BTW..Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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Get both. Also, have you tried auto supply stores? That's usually a good place to get the higher grits.
sullyComment
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Yeah, I checked. They got 20 packs of some but I don't need more than a couple of each. I'll get these combo packs online.Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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Go to a paint and body supply if there is one near you. Those places generally sell sand paper by the sheet.Comment
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Already got them online. Don't even need them for another week or 2 anyway. Scared shitless,
but going out to cut/shave/rout the top right now.
Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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In case anyone wants to keep up with the progress... albiet slow progress (taking time and trying to get it right!!)... here's the link to progress pics.
http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/f...xes/Model%206/Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!Comment
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