Truss Rod Adjustment RR1

[zeegler]

there was a guy who fell for this kinda joke once.

$3000 guitar = totaled think it was a high end gibson or something really expensive like that.

That's awesome. I wonder if he learned his lesson.

[dangerous_dave]

I do sometimes think that guitars are over-complicated by some people, they are just wood and frets... and strings.

But, if you don't know what it does, don't mess with it, as zeeg said, you change string height with the bridge, not the neck shape.

[Bengal]

No, it's not rocket science.
BUT, you don't use the truss rod to adjust string height. That's not what it's for. If the OP had bothered to ask BEFORE he messed with the truss rod, he would have known that. Asking about something after the fact shows a lack of common sense.

Sorry but yes I do use the truss rod to adjust string height.

Once you get the bridge set, it shouldn't move at all. So then you can tell that the neck needs an adjustment by how the strings sit on the neck. Too much bow and the strings are too high and vise versa.

So yes, I do use the truss rod to set string height. AFTER I have set up the bridge.

[SEEGERMANY]

but do some reading first

Most important five words in this thread.

[SEEGERMANY]

I agree with several members who say it's good to know how to make adjustments to your guitar. I took the time to find a great tech, then asked if I could watch as he made adjustments to various guitars in my collection. He gave me advise, told me the books to buy, and promised to fix any and all fuckups on my part.

Seriously, the three best pieces of advise he gave me were

1) Always check the nut first.
2) Never make more than a quarter turn truss rod adjustment at a time. Let the guitar acclimate to the change and make additional adjustments the following day.
3) Stay away from Natural Ice

[CharvelRocker]

I only touch the truss to get rid of buzz once every MAYBE 6 months when I can't keep the buzz away and my action where I like it, meaning the neck has moved and needs adjustment. In order to know when you adjust it, you need some kind of measure. If you're string height hasn't moved, but the buzz is getting worse, it's probably time for adjustment.

EDIT: I will though, say for the record, you'll more likely than not want to go a half turn if your guitar has a stiffer neck, IE quartersawn maple as the smaller adjustments don't seem to make as much of a difference.

[Bengal]

3) Stay away from Natural Ice

Best advise ever.

[Bengal]

What I'm saying is once the bridge is set, it doesn't move. I get the bridge where I like it and it stays there forever.

But once the humidy or lack of effect the neck, the string height will change. It will get lower if you need more backbow and it will get higher the more you need to take it out.

The only adjustments I do to my guitars is truss rod adjustments after I do the initial one. That's all that's needed. And it does set the string height.

Some necks need 6 adjustments a year. Some only need 1. One I have doesn't need any. So that just depends on the neck.

And the only thing I use to measure string height is my fret hand and eyes. Never had a guage and never needed one. I go by eye and feel.

And I've done a few full turns on a rod before. I had one that was so loose that it needed 4 full turns to get it tight and the board flat. As long as you don't force it, you'll be fine. And just because the neck might be creaking doesn't mean you are doing damage to it.

[zeegler]

Sorry but yes I do use the truss rod to adjust string height.

Once you get the bridge set, it shouldn't move at all. So then you can tell that the neck needs an adjustment by how the strings sit on the neck. Too much bow and the strings are too high and vise versa.

So yes, I do use the truss rod to set string height. AFTER I have set up the bridge.

You're only adjusting string height indirectly by adjusting neck relief. The truss rod is there to keep the neck straight, and that's what it does. Notice you say AFTER you have set the bridge. If you've already done a proper set-up, and given that nothing else changes (same string gauge etc.) then you're correct that you can adjust the truss rod as needed when the environmental conditions cause changes in neck relief. However, that is only true, when everything else has been done first.

When I do basic set-ups for people, this is what I do.
1 - Check relief in neck, and adjust if necessary. This is not based on whether strings are buzzing.
2 - Check nut height, and adjust/recut as required.
3 - Adjust bridge height. This is the part that is done according to where the strings start buzzing.
4 - Intonation.

All of this is done with the correct gauge strings tuned to pitch and stretched out.

IMO that is the correct order of operations.

[Bengal]

Zeegs,
You are right, it can only be done after a good setup. And it will need to be changed if string guage or tuning is changed.

[Brooke]

Sorry but yes I do use the truss rod to adjust string height.

Once you get the bridge set, it shouldn't move at all. So then you can tell that the neck needs an adjustment by how the strings sit on the neck. Too much bow and the strings are too high and vise versa.

So yes, I do use the truss rod to set string height. AFTER I have set up the bridge.

This is true when your action is really really low. When the neck is not straight, then the action will appear to rise.

In this instance in you lower the bridge, then you will fret out on the high frets, but not in the middle of the neck.

[toejam]

I do it like Bengal. I've got a Fender Double Fat Strat Hardtail that sits on a stand all year long in my bedroom. I always set it up with 10-gauge GHS Boomers, a half-step flat. Usually twice a year (once in winter, once in summer) I'll have to adjust the truss rod because the action will either become too high or too low due to climate changes. I haven't adjusted it this year, and haven't actually played it in awhile, but I just picked it up now and the action is a little high, so the rod needs to be tightened again.

[Bengal]

This is true when your action is really really low. When the neck is not straight, then the action will appear to rise.

In this instance in you lower the bridge, then you will fret out on the high frets, but not in the middle of the neck.

I think it works any way. Not only if the action is low but if it's medium or high as well.

Since I don't use a guage to measure string height, I can tell just by fretting if the action is high or low meaning it needs a neck adjustment.

I wouldn't say I have super low action on my guitars. It's a bit higher than most would like it. I like it a big higher so the strings ring out more.

I will reiterate, once I set a bridge once for a string guage and tuning, I never, EVER touch it again. You don't need to once it's set up right the first time. It only needs it when you change guages or brands or tuning.

Other than that, a truss rod adjustment takes care of my action issues.

[Axewielder]

I do like to adjust the truss to address buzzing. Once the action is set nice and low, I compare the buzzing on frets 4 - 7 to the buzzing on frets 9 - 12. If the buzzing is more pronounced down low, I'll add a bit of relief. If the buzzing the more pronounced up high, I'll take some out. Once the buzzing is consistent (you NEVER can get it all out), you are done. Adjust the bridge a bit higher if you need to get a bit more buzz out.

[Musician78]

As long as you don't force it, you'll be fine.

I can't believe the lack of people's common sense. *Adjusting truss rod. Truss rod does not want to move. Think. "Maybe torquing the hell out of this will help."* :ROTF: