KV2 and Brass Block

[V-man]

I just sprung for one of these for a MIA KV2 after reading the listing; 42mm - Flush Mount; 37mm - Recess; 32mm - “Deep Recess”

I ordered the 37mm and it arrived today. I disassembled the OFR and F-me if the damned stock block doesn’t drop out with a 32mm stamp on it. Nervous now, I test-fit it without the spacer/shim that fits between the block and bronze spring (hoping to save a mm) and put the trem on the stud posts without spring tension. A pull back on the trem arm to full extension and S.O.B, the block bottoms out, just jutting past where the cavity plate would reside.

1. Wishful thinking, but does this movement, sans spring pressure change when the trem springs are installed, or would this 37mm bottom out with or without full spring pressure?

2. Have any of you installed the 37mm and found yourself in a similar situation but adapted? Did you lose a bit pulling back but not a significant amount? Is there a backplate with a cut to accomodate this block or did you just run without the backplate? Can it be raised reasonably via the stud posts?

3. For those who sized a 32mm... the block is so small, it hardly seems worth the upgrade to me. Did you really notice a difference?


Thoughts?

[toejam]

32 is what you need. 37 and 42 are for non-recessed terms. Didn't your KV2 originally come with 32? Put the springs on and string it up and test it out. Also, you don't need to put the cover back on if you don't want to.

[V-man]

According to the sizing chart, 37mm is for recessed trems... 32mm is for “deep recessed” (Aggravating that they have no sizing chart- right or wrong, I have never heard that Jackson’s had “deep recessed” trems).

[Number Of The Priest]

If you measure the stock sustain block that came with your KV2, you will discover it's 32mm. It also happens to be made of brass, because that's what Original Floyd Rose bridges come equipped with.

I can only assume you're ordering one of those "big brass replacement blocks" that are thicker than the stock brass OFR block. You need a 32mm block.

[V-man]

I don't mind any input and appreciate all attempts at helpfulness, but there seems to be a disconnect with what I have posted and the responses.

Before I posted, I became acutely aware that the stock block was 32mm the moment it dropped out. I am not asking about that (though it would have paid off had I confirmed here before buying). The ONLY thing I am asking regarding a 32mm block is whether anybody upgraded to the thicker aftermarket to see if that was worthwhile because the difference btw that and the stock seems minimal.

What I was also (primarily) interested in is people having a go with the 37mm, what they did and how the experience worked for them. As things appear now, it seems the best 2 options are "experiment with 37mm/make it work," or just return it and go back to stock.

[toejam]

I had a Charvel Star that was non-recessed and it came with a 37mm block. I wasn't aware they used those on recessed bodies. Any other Charvel with non-recess I've had has been 42mm. I guess it depends on the neck angle. But with 32, the neck has no tilted back angle and trem is recessed.

[Number Of The Priest]

Before I posted, I became acutely aware that the stock block was 32mm the moment it dropped out. I am not asking about that (though it would have paid off had I confirmed here before buying). The ONLY thing I am asking regarding a 32mm block is whether anybody upgraded to the thicker aftermarket to see if that was worthwhile because the difference btw that and the stock seems minimal.

I did a similar thing, "upgrading" my OFR's stock "standard thickness" brass block to the equivalent thicker brass one. I honestly noticed no difference in tone, sustain, etc.

If you're coming from a lesser tremolo, such as the Floyd Rose Special with its zinc alloy sustain block, you may notice a difference in swapping to a "standard thickness" brass block, or even a big brass one. I have not tried this.

What I was also (primarily) interested in is people having a go with the 37mm, what they did and how the experience worked for them. As things appear now, it seems the best 2 options are "experiment with 37mm/make it work," or just return it and go back to stock.

I bought a used guitar that came with a brass block that is too long for the cavity. It protrudes by a few millimeters. Fortunately the backplate/cover has a "window" carved out to allow the block to move freely when I operate the tremolo. The extra length doesn't affect tremolo operation and I've left it alone. I haven't bothered to buy a shorter block. In your case, if the longer block doesn't impede operation of the tremolo, you might be able to make it work by leaving the cover off. Some guitarists do that anyway, claiming that tone is improved when there's no backplate in place.

[CaptNasty]

I went in a bit of a different direction. I got a standard sized Tungsten (Not Titanium) block. It is about the same weight and density as the big brass block, but the Tungsten added a really nice aggresive edge to the tone of the guitar.

[V-man]

I went in a bit of a different direction. I got a standard sized Tungsten (Not Titanium) block. It is about the same weight and density as the big brass block, but the Tungsten added a really nice aggresive edge to the tone of the guitar.

I am wondering about this. The JBs through JCM 800s sound ok... maybe could benefit from some balls. Well I dropped the big brass block in and hastily tuned (trem is diving about 15 degrees downward, but I was going for a quick run) before running it. Yesterday it sounded “dead” to me... perhaps in line with the nay-sayers who state you get sustain at the cost of frequencies.

I plugged in moments ago and did an A/B real quick with a ‘75 V with T-tops. It’s unquestionably darker. It’s bassier, which gives palm mutes more oomph, but perhaps not as crunchy. The mid range feels like the tone knob’s been rolled back. I was thinking of swapping out the stock JB set for either something passive (Mustaines/Black Winters/Bare Knuckles?) or for an 81/85 set I have lying around. My concern is that something as thin as the Stock JB having alteration in the upper mids could be bad news if I get something thicker without those trebs and mids.