Weak Soloist - Part 2

[veniculum]

So I've spent the last week doing everything I can to try and make this Soloist sing. I think I've improved it from it's stock configuration, but it's still not up to par.
I've got a half way decent guitar collection going these days, and just accept that some guitars sound better than others...I mean...this is actually a pretty simple concept...if all guitars sounded great, why have different ones. But this Soloist has really put me on a mission...
In my previous thread, I left off with some buzzing strings...which, obviously, affect tone. To what degree, not sure. But playing this guitar back to back with say, my PC-1...and the PC-1 just sounds much bigger/fatter/chunkier...the list goes on (that's a bone stock PC-1 by the way).

I spent some time tonight trying to get the buzzing under control....but my guitar tech skills are very limited...so after adjusting the bridge and truss some more...and putting new strings on...as well as putting some material under the bottom E string to try and kill the buzzing (as was suggested in the other thread)...no luck. So it's back to my tech to just get a proper setup. But before I take it there, I wanted to get some opinions about something that I think is a bit of a 'mixed bag' subject.

I'm a fan of the floyd upgrades stuff. I put the big brass blocks in all my Charvels, and I did hear a difference. While it wasn't night and day, it did improve the sustain and tone to some extent. What I'm contemplating now is going for the real deal and picking up the titanium block for my soloist. What I was hoping to get was some opinions from those of you who may have tried both the brass and titanium blocks.

If you have tried both the titanium and brass, and wouldn't mind letting me know your thoughts on them, I'd certainly appreciate it. Obviously, the titanium is quite a bit more expensive. So I'm wondering if it's worth the added expense for that block vs. the $30 something dollar brass. And to add even more to this...what do you guys think makes more of a difference...the block of the saddles. FU.com sells titanium saddles as well...but those are really pricey....

Anyway....as always, I appreciate your replies/suggestions.

[xenophobe]

I've never played a guitar with titanium blocks or saddles, nor have I compared them to anything else. Titanium is a very light and brittle metal... I would imagine that it would do the exact opposite of a brass block when compared to the standard pot metal block. Either way, changing the saddles or the block won't make a huge difference in tone and if you're not happy with the sound as it is it probably won't change your mind.

As for buzzing vs string clearance... if you want a really low action you're going to have to accept the compromise... lower action for some minor string buzz. You'll need to adjust the level of your nut and your bridge if you flatten that neck (something every Jackson should have done after leaving the factory, IMO). A really nice neck will be acceptable at about 1-1.5mm at the 12th and 2-2.5mm at the 24th, but temperature and humidity fluctuations could make it buzz worse. A bad neck might only get 2-2.5mm at the 12th without buzz needing some minor fretwork to improve it...

[shreddermon]

Well, if you're comparing it to a PC1, there should be a significant tone difference. I sure can notice it on mine. Maple neck-through & alder body wings vs. mahogany body & bolt-on maple neck. ...It's the wood. The PC1 definitely sounds fatter/chunkier in that comparison. Not better, IMHO. Just different.

[neilli]

Plus the PC1 has a big neck, maple board and different pickups...

[YetAnotherOne]

Once in a while the guitar is just a dud. I had a Soloist some years back that was dull & lifeless, just not resonant at all. That one just *felt* bad. Cured it by selling it & replacing it with something better.

[veniculum]

Thanks for the replies. Just to respond to a few of these replies in one...I have used the brass blocks (as mentioned in my first post)...and I have had positive results. I wasn't asking if there was a difference between brass vs. stock....or titanium vs. stock...I was asking if there was a difference between brass vs. titanium. I would only expect to hear from folks who have used both. If you have not used either, it's fine if you don't believe in them...but once again, I have had different results...with the brass alone, I have found that there is a difference...and while not a complete overhaul...a positive difference. And with that, is the titanium upgrade worth the extra cash?

As far as the PC-1 vs. Soloist...I know that there's a tone difference..and that there should be...just based on the woods and hardware alone...as well as the neck-through vs. bolt-on. That being said...I briefly had a Japanese soloist that had the stock JB/59 combo, and it did sound just as 'ballsy' as my PC-1 (for lack of a better term). So taking that into consideration, I compare the acoustic qualities of each guitar. Both USA Soloist and PC-1 sound great unplugged. They both ring out beautifully, and sustain like there's no tomorrow...more so than I remember the Japanese Soloist. That guitar, while nice, was a bit flat when unplugged...so it has always been a bit surprising that it had more going for it when plugged in.

Anyway, what I was hoping to get here was someone who had used both the titanium and brass big blocks. I've used the brass blocks, and while I don't think they completely changed the sound of the guitar, I do think they added some warmth and sustain. What I'm trying to decide is if it's worth sinking an additional 100 bucks into a titanium block (vs. the $30 brass).

Finally...as far as the guitar being a "dud"...it could be...I'll accept that. But I'll only accept that after I've tried everything I can try. Right now, it needs a setup by someone who knows how to setup guitars. I do not...never have, probably never will. I just play 'em. I've swapped the pickups, and it made a significant difference...and while not perfect, considerably better than stock. So that stands to reason that I should be able to improve on it further. Perhaps the setup alone will help things. I've used the brass blocks in my Charvels and liked them...will be picking up a brass (or titanium) block for this guitar as well...just to see what it gets me. As I said...this guitar is kinda worth it. Some guitars, I'd throw in the towel...but I really dig this one. I refuse to call it a dud at this point. Perhaps in another week or two, I will change my mind. But if that's the case, then what. That's not really a warranty issue...can't really call Jackson and tell them my guitar is a dud

Thanks again for the replies

[murkat]

Once in a while the guitar is just a dud. I had a Soloist some years back that was dull & lifeless, just not resonant at all. That one just *felt* bad. Cured it by selling it & replacing it with something better.

Sad but true. Been there done that.
(devil's Koi Pond) sigh.

[xenophobe]

Thanks for the replies. Just to respond to a few of these replies in one...I have used the brass blocks (as mentioned in my first post)...and I have had positive results. I wasn't asking if there was a difference between brass vs. stock....or titanium vs. stock...I was asking if there was a difference between brass vs. titanium. I would only expect to hear from folks who have used both. If you have not used either, it's fine if you don't believe in them...but once again, I have had different results...with the brass alone, I have found that there is a difference...and while not a complete overhaul...a positive difference. And with that, is the titanium upgrade worth the extra cash?

You missed my point. Is it possible a minor change in tone going to make you happy with the guitar? If the answer is no, changing blocks won't get you where you want to be.

Titanium is going to add treble. It won't dampen vibrations, it'll transfer them more efficiently. It might be nice on a guitar that has way too much low resonance that has muddy highs, but if you put it with maple and poplar you're going to get too bright. Imagine how an aluminum block for your Floyd would sound... then add a little more treble.

And yeah, I've never used it on a guitar but I'm not a fucking idiot. You don't need to be a rocket scientist to understand basic metallurgical properties, you just need half a brain...

[veniculum]

You missed my point. Is it possible a minor change in tone going to make you happy with the guitar? If the answer is no, changing blocks won't get you where you want to be.

Titanium is going to add treble. It won't dampen vibrations, it'll transfer them more efficiently. It might be nice on a guitar that has way too much low resonance that has muddy highs, but if you put it with maple and poplar you're going to get too bright. Imagine how an aluminum block for your Floyd would sound... then add a little more treble.

And yeah, I've never used it on a guitar but I'm not a fucking idiot. You don't need to be a rocket scientist to understand basic metallurgical properties, you just need half a brain...

Relax man..I didn't call you an idiot. I simply wanted to hear from someone who had tried it. Whew!

[leftyjackson]

I had an SL2H for over 10 years that I just never bonded with. Believe me, I tried. After numerous pickup changes (JB & '59, SD Liverwire Metal set, Invader set, Distortion set, Dimebucker (ugh) & Full Shred, and lastly, like you, an EMG 81 & 85 set - which I swapped positions between neck & bridge at one point) blocking the Floyd, unblocking the Floyd, I realized that this guitar just couldn't give me the tone I was looking for (it didn't have the "chunk", or "depth" of any of my other guitars).

So it sat in my guitar closet, played less than any other guitar I own. I'd pull it out every so often, but no dice - the sound just wasn't happening.

I ended up trading it for an EVH Wolfgang, and I don't regret it at all. The irony is, the SL2H was my dream guitar throughout my teen years ('80's). Turns out it was just that, a "dream" that didn't meet my expectations.

[veniculum]

You guys are killing me I'm on a mission here man. I've wanted one of these since I was 15 years old (what was that....1987,88..something like that). This guitar looks nicer than anything I own...it sounds beautiful acoustically...and by dammit, I'm gonna make this fucker sing..one way or another!

I did order the titanium block...that's 159 bucks for that thing. I'm also bringing it back to my tech for a proper setup. I should stress..the EMG upgrade did make a noticeable difference from the stock JB/59. Just not quite there yet. I'm hopeful that a few more changes (trial and error here) will get me to the promised land!

[Newc]

The difference between Brass and Titanium should be well-known: Brass is a soft metal, Titianium is a hard metal.

Adding mass of any measurable amount to any part of a guitar - the head, the bridge, drilling a deep hole longways into the body and inserting a steel rod, or filling the neck pickup route with cement - is going to enhance sustain. This is a given fact.


Block material has no bearing on fret buzz.


However, where the bridge is concerned, you also have the saddles to consider. Titianium saddles will give you excessive brightness on a guitar that is already tinny and plinky.
But, in this case I see no reason why block material should matter with regards to the tone, as the strings and saddles have no direct contact with the block of a double-locking Floyd Rose. If it were a Strat where the strings pass through the block, then yes.

You might consider having the pivot post insert holes filled and redrilled, or maybe replacing the inserts with the old-style woodscrews. You might also look into replacing the Floyd itself.
Just swap one off a different guitar that you know sounds good - if that improves the Soloist's tone, put the SL's trem on the other guitar. If the other guitar then sounds bad, junk the trem and replace it.

On the other hand, there could be an issue with the locking nut, like maybe the string doesn't make solid contact with the entire nut base or lock. While this won't affect tuning stability, it may affect resonance and sustain.

And if your OFR has saddle shims, remove them, as that could be preventing your saddles from making ideal contact with the baseplate.

It's also quite possible your nut shelf was routed poorly, and the nut is too low on one side, and possibly not making good contact with the neck, thus affecting sustain.

[xenophobe]

However, where the bridge is concerned, you also have the saddles to consider. Titianium saddles will give you excessive brightness on a guitar that is already tinny and plinky.
But, in this case I see no reason why block material should matter with regards to the tone, as the strings and saddles have no direct contact with the block of a double-locking Floyd Rose. If it were a Strat where the strings pass through the block, then yes.

There is still going to be some change with a block change. Even though the strings don't directly contact it, it's directly attached to the bridge and nestled between the strings and the springs, so it will transfer resonance vibrations much differently. How that actually affects tone is another thing altogether. Doubtful that it will be anything more than a little more tinniness or brightness at the top end, but I could be underrating the effects a block change would have. At least we have a guinea pig. lmao $160 for a titanium bridge? I'll sell ya the Manhattan bridge for half that.

[petez0r]

it should be amazing with those emgs in there. when you changed the pups, did you rewire the whole thing? cause if you didnt i bet theres a problem in there somewhere, i had the exact same problem as you and when i changed the pups to emgs i got the tech to rewire the whole fkn thing, and its just amazing now.

[1337storm]

Regarding the brass blocks, I have them in 2 RR1:s, a CS Soloist and a Fusion Professional as far as jacksons go.
I also have them in a couple of Ibanez guitars.
They made a bigger difference in the Ibanez guitars, since the original blocks on Ibanez is made of some kind of casted junk metal.
The Jacksons on the other hand all have OFR or Schaller Floyds and the blocks in those are made of brass from the beginning,
just not as big as the replacement.
There was still an improvement, but not as much as the Ibanez.
I've never tried the Titanium blocks, partly due to the pricing but also due to the fact that the titanium will enhance the brightness
and thats not whats lacking in my Jacksons.