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Belated NGD - Adrian Smith SDX

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  • #61
    I would like to replace the stock 1-ply pickguard with a 3-ply version. Will any standard 11-hole Fender Stratocaster pickguard fit Jackson SDX?
    My Jacksons: RR1 x2, RR Pro, Soloist Pro, RRXMG x2, SDX, JS32RR

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    • #62
      Originally posted by Kisonen View Post
      Locking nut is 43mm from the factory so R3 fits. You can try R2 nut on and see if it works. There is little bit of overhang with R3 nut on my AS SDX.
      I think that Schaller R2 is too narrow and has too narrow string spacing too. R3 is about 2 mm too high and I don`t want to file down the nut shelf or nut. It seems that if I want to replace FR Special with a chrome Lockmeister I need to find a chrome Jackson BH43 locking nut then. I havent noticed string slippage problem so there is no reason to change string spacing.
      My Jacksons: RR1 x2, RR Pro, Soloist Pro, RRXMG x2, SDX, JS32RR

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      • #63
        I'm not sure myself, mine was already changed when I bought it and the new one I got from Warmoth was a direct fit for what was on there.

        If it's not a direct fit it's not too hard to make it work.

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        • #64
          I'm a big fan of R2 nuts, but R3 is the correct one for this guitar, but you can put an R2 on there if you really want.

          The first release of this guitar came with an R4 which was problematic mistake.

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          • #65
            Originally posted by Zedder View Post
            I think that Schaller R2 is too narrow and has too narrow string spacing too. R3 is about 2 mm too high and I don`t want to file down the nut shelf or nut. It seems that if I want to replace FR Special with a chrome Lockmeister I need to find a chrome Jackson BH43 locking nut then. I havent noticed string slippage problem so there is no reason to change string spacing.
            How do you know that R3 will be 2mm too high? That FR special nut is R3 too and has same dimensions as OFR part. What kind of string action you get on the first fret?
            Try locking nut from your RR1 if you want to be sure that R3 will fit the way you want it.

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            • #66
              Originally posted by Kisonen View Post
              How do you know that R3 will be 2mm too high? That FR special nut is R3 too and has same dimensions as OFR part. What kind of string action you get on the first fret?
              Try locking nut from your RR1 if you want to be sure that R3 will fit the way you want it.
              Nut shelves made for Schaller/OFR R3 nut are usually much deeper. I also made some measurements (I have couple of Jacksons with Schaller/OFR and Jackson BH43 locking nuts) and checked this chart:

              http://www.wdmusic.com/media/images/floyd_chart.jpg

              Jackson BH43 nut height is very close to MIG R2 height and MIG R3 is about 1 1/2 mm higher. So I think nut shelf or nut itself should be filed down.
              My Jacksons: RR1 x2, RR Pro, Soloist Pro, RRXMG x2, SDX, JS32RR

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              • #67
                Originally posted by Zedder View Post
                Nut shelves made for Schaller/OFR R3 nut are usually much deeper. I also made some measurements (I have couple of Jacksons with Schaller/OFR and Jackson BH43 locking nuts) and checked this chart:

                http://www.wdmusic.com/media/images/floyd_chart.jpg

                Jackson BH43 nut height is very close to MIG R2 height and MIG R3 is about 1 1/2 mm higher. So I think nut shelf or nut itself should be filed down.
                Interesting. My SDX is 2013 model (bought new) It has R3 spec nut. Maybe that has been changed now? Nut shelf was too shallow from the factory and I had to have it cut deeper for decent action. Out of the box it had 0.8mm between bottom of the low E string and top of the fret.

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                • #68
                  Ok, bit of a thread mine on my own thread, but I have big news. The action/playability of this guitar remained an issue after the last work above was done. I tried one other guy here locally and gave up, he did a TERRIBLE job, nothing like what I asked. So just before Covid hit I had it taken to a guitar guy in Melbourne, about 9 hours from me, via a friend who came to town and was going back.

                  Covid hit and things went quiet and when they didn't I asked about this guitar as I sent it away for a full refret in stainless steel and the perfect setup to suit. I then discovered this guy didn't read emails and doesn't do stainless frets. So I found someone else who has had it since last October and I figured that since this was going to make the guitar a serious player (I hoped) I would change out those unkown pickups and sent him Doug Aldrich Surh pickups for both positions. I also asked for better dot inlays.

                  The guitar finally got back today and after my customary tweaking (low, low action and a flat fretboard always mean something else to guitar setup guys) I am able to get this playing like a beast.

                  I thought I talked about neck angles but the floyd is pretty close to the body, on the bass side it is tanked and I can go a bit low on the treble. I actually lowered it and then made it higher. The fretwork is pretty amazing.

                  I've been wanting this to be a serious player so it looks like that is possible.

                  I also ordered a Jackson Adrian Smith case as it's the only Jackson one that will fit this shape. It arrived a few weeks ago, so it's all looking good!

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                  • #69
                    Here are some pics of the work done to get it where it is today.






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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by Genebaby View Post
                      Here are some pics of the work done to get it where it is today.
                      Awesome update! Glad you've got it where you want it to be. Looks great!!!


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                      • #71
                        Thanks. It's been a long road but worth it in the end, to have such a great playing Jackson Strat Head.

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