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Ngd: Jackson AT professional pro

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  • Ngd: Jackson AT professional pro

    I'm sure a few of the members here might have seen this on eBay a few weeks ago. As an owner of a few 750xl's, which I adore, I've been waiting for my chance to come across one of these. I gotta say it's absolutely amazing. I wasn't looking for a mint one because then I wouldn't want to play it, but rather keep it in its case in the closet. The damage to the guitar certainly isn't devastating, so I can't complain for what I actually paid compared to what I thought I would end up paying. At some point someone added 2 toggle switches, then later filled the holes in. Also for some reason they covered up the "professional" on the headstock. I have no idea why they would do that. Also an OFR has been equipped, so someone slightly routed, or looks like they took and exacto knife to part of the trem cavity. I'm thinking of either switching the OFR with the jt590 on one of my 750xl's but I might just get some shorter replacement screws thru work. Either way, all in all, I'm very pleased with the guitar! I think it's a low serial number too, s/n j000112. I don't know as much history about these as I do the 750xl. Anyways, here are some pics

    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

  • #2
    Very nice! I just bought a 750xl for first time, I'm hoping it's as nice as they say.

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    • #3
      That low serial seems to confirm what I've believed all along: there's no month or quarter or anything hidden in those serials. They simply show the year and a number of units made.

      BTW... congratulations. I dig the colour.
      96xxxxx, 97xxxxx and 98xxxxx serials oftentimes don't indicate '96, '97 and '98.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by bucketbrian45 View Post
        Very nice! I just bought a 750xl for first time, I'm hoping it's as nice as they say.
        I think you'll love it, they feel so smooth to play. Heavy but awesome. Congrats!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Mudlark View Post
          That low serial seems to confirm what I've believed all along: there's no month or quarter or anything hidden in those serials. They simply show the year and a number of units made.

          BTW... congratulations. I dig the colour.
          I think I read that thread that was on here, i didn't make sense to me then haha. Thanks, I thought I read the blue ones were more rare, but it seems like that's the finish I see most often. Maybe it's just google image's fault lol

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          • #6
            Originally posted by bucketbrian45 View Post
            Very nice! I just bought a 750xl for first time, I'm hoping it's as nice as they say.
            Post some pics once you get it! If you don't love it, I myself among others here would love to take it off your hands!

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            • #7
              Nice guitar. The mods that were done make about as little sense on a benefit-to-damage basis as I've ever seen. OFR from Schaller? Not an upgrade of any consequence. Covering the pearl inlay? Meaningless.

              Adding controls has a purpose- but on a carved quilt top... Almost looks like they saved the "plugs" from where they drilled. Those holes look bigger than anything a mini switch would need anyway. Wonder if minis really were what accounts for that damage.

              Really is a nice guitar though for all of that, and you could get pretty close to "back to normal" if you wanted to.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Vass View Post
                Nice guitar. The mods that were done make about as little sense on a benefit-to-damage basis as I've ever seen. OFR from Schaller? Not an upgrade of any consequence. Covering the pearl inlay? Meaningless.
                I think it's just an OFR, not sure though, I've never owned a real Floyd rose, except for the Floyd rose II on my 650xl and this I think.
                [IMG][/IMG]

                Adding controls has a purpose- but on a carved quilt top... Almost looks like they saved the "plugs" from where they drilled. Those holes look bigger than anything a mini switch would need anyway. Wonder if minis really were what accounts for that damage.
                They may have been normal toggles? Killswitches or something?
                [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

                Really is a nice guitar though for all of that, and you could get pretty close to "back to normal" if you wanted to.
                I wonder if there is a way I could remove the black from the headstock over the "professional" but I'd hate to make it worse than it is.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Stephenamundson83 View Post
                  I wonder if there is a way I could remove the black from the headstock over the "professional" but I'd hate to make it worse than it is.
                  Looks like it was done with a Sharpie. I'd think it could be removed by using swirl remover or rubbing compound. I would not use a solvent like thinner.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DonP View Post
                    Looks like it was done with a Sharpie. I'd think it could be removed by using swirl remover or rubbing compound. I would not use a solvent like thinner.
                    Yeah I tried to take a better pic of the headstock but I just can't get the angle right. It's actually raised up slightly, I'm almost thinking some wet sanding would do the trick? Same with the 2 holes that were filled in they're slightly raised from the lacuer that was used or whatever.
                    Last edited by Stephenamundson83; 05-21-2016, 09:56 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Stephen, I had the same issue with a Floyd replacement on a desert crackle ESP Mirage....the PO had done the same thing to clear the string lock screws. So I made a metal template to match the larger rout, clamped it to the guitar body, then used a Dremel to enlarge the rout stopping at the template. The template prevented chipping the finish, provided a nice straight crisp line, and the sanding drum made its own corner radius. I then masked the area off and re-sprayed the area black. The pic is not the greatest, but you get the idea. That rout had to be widened also because the original Sinclair trem baseplate was smaller.

                      Front close.jpg
                      "Hail to the Wasted".......Zinny J. Zan

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                      • #12
                        [QUOTE=msaint65;1646773]Stephen, I had the same issue with a Floyd replacement on a desert crackle ESP Mirage....the PO had done the same thing to clear the string lock screws. So I made a metal template to match the larger rout, clamped it to the guitar body, then used a Dremel to enlarge the rout stopping at the template. The template prevented chipping the finish, provided a nice straight crisp line, and the sanding drum made its own corner radius. I then masked the area off and re-sprayed the area black. The pic is not the greatest, but you get the idea. That rout had to be widened also because the original Sinclair trem baseplate was smaller.

                        Why not just go the way of shorter screws? Id rather not take more chunks of wood off haha. But I would have to find something to dress up that part that's been taken off already, perhaps some blue dye would do the trick.

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                        • #13
                          That color is great. Too bad about the mods, but at least it was a good price.
                          I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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                          • #14
                            Solid guitar, nice grab. That seller had some really nice stuff and this one was favorite FR player.

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                            • #15
                              How is the neck profile compared to 750XLs neck?
                              Don't drink & drive if you can smoke & fly!!!

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