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Routing a Japanese KV3 for a Floyd Rose Pro

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  • Routing a Japanese KV3 for a Floyd Rose Pro

    Hi all,
    I'm new to the site.

    I have a question about replacing a JT580LP bridge (Takeuchi) with a Floyd Rose 1000 Pro on a 2000 Japanese KV3.

    I installed the bridge and everything seems fine except:

    1) The nut has to be ground down or the nut shelf lowered
    2) The bushings have to be removed and the post holes enlarged for the FR posts (although I have used the stock JT580LP posts successfully)
    3) The route has to be deepened for the Floyd Rose 1000 Pro to be capable of a pull up

    I've noticed on my other JT580LP guitars that the maximum pull up is about a major third or perfect fourth. I'd like to replicate this with the Floyd Rose 1000 Pro.

    Is there a way of finding how much wood needs to be removed in order to accomplish this?

    Thanks.

  • #2
    The Floyd Pro has different dimensions (and string spacing) than a regular Floyd or a JT580LP, but a regular Floyd will fit the JT580LP route just fine.
    I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by toejam View Post
      The Floyd Pro has different dimensions (and string spacing) than a regular Floyd or a JT580LP, but a regular Floyd will fit the JT580LP route just fine.
      My understanding is that because the JT580LP is low profile, and the Floyd Pro is a low profile, they will swap.

      In my case, they did swap--nearly perfectly. A Pro was chosen because I do not think there is enough space in the route to accommodate the bolts that protrude far behind the OFR (whereas on the Pro they are in front of the baseplate).

      Fitting the shape of the route is not the problem. The problem is that the route is not deep enough to allow pull ups. The bar only goes down.

      So, how do I find out how much wood I need to remove?

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      • #4
        Plenty of people here have replaced the JT580LP with a regular Floyd or even a Schaller/JT590, the bolts fit no problem. As for the Floyd Pro not allowing for pull-ups, that's because the dimensions are indeed different. Just because it's a Lo-Pro, does not mean it will be a direct replacement. As far as how much wood to remove to help solve your problem, I have no idea.
        I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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        • #5
          Shim the back of the neck where the two rear-most bolts go through (not the entire neck pocket, just the back 3rd). This will increase the neck angle, making it so you have to raise the bridge, which means you will be able to do higher pullups.

          Or get a regular OFR (non low-profile). Any guitar that got the JT580LP with those long arms out the back will take an OFR as a replacer. It's actually the saddle arms that are preventing you from getting higher pull-up range because of how they curve down.


          However, if you insist on removing wood, it should take at least 1/4" to get where you're going.
          I want to depart this world the same way I arrived; screaming and covered in someone else's blood

          The most human thing we can do is comfort the afflicted and afflict the comfortable.

          My Blog: http://newcenstein.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Newc View Post
            Shim the back of the neck where the two rear-most bolts go through (not the entire neck pocket, just the back 3rd). This will increase the neck angle, making it so you have to raise the bridge, which means you will be able to do higher pullups.

            Or get a regular OFR (non low-profile). Any guitar that got the JT580LP with those long arms out the back will take an OFR as a replacer. It's actually the saddle arms that are preventing you from getting higher pull-up range because of how they curve down.


            However, if you insist on removing wood, it should take at least 1/4" to get where you're going.
            You guys are gold.

            Thanks, Newc. I think you hit the nail on the head. Apparently the JT580LP has OFR dimensions but Pro style saddle blocks (although on some of my 90s imports the locking screws do protrude behind the tail).

            Apparently I just looked at the saddles and thought if the saddle screws were behind the saddle, it's automatically a Pro, and if the bolts go behind the tail piece, it's automatically an Original.

            It didn't help that, on March 20, 2014, Matthew Hownslow of Fender sent me the following link as a schematic to the JT580LP. Unfortunately the link doesn't work anymore, but based on Fender's feedback itself, the closest bridge would be the Pro.

            http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/8...droselopro.jpg

            And you are exactly right as far as the saddle arms. They dip down far below the bridge tail piece on the Pro, whereas on the JT580LP they are almost flush with the tailpiece.

            The only problem is that now I have a FR 1000 Pro that I can't return because I took the nut to a machinist to have it lowered with a surface grinder.

            Will the FR1000 Pro retrofit on an FR Special?

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