Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

YJM Strat

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • YJM Strat

    I reviewed all the old threads and didn't quite find what I was looking for, so..

    What model and year is the most accurate representation of the Duck other than the mega-expensive Custom Shop relic?

  • #2
    Isn't the current one fairly representative? Big headstock, scalloped, yellow/cream finish, maple board, vintage trem and YJMs and HS-3 pickups. It just isn't beat to shit.
    -------------------------
    Blank yo!

    Comment


    • #3
      http://www.guitarcenter.com/Fender-A...49-i1172541.gc

      That one's about as close as you're going to get for the same money, from the absurd prices I've seen on "vintage" 70's Strats.

      Comment


      • #4
        Monster guitars... but I like the Blackmore better.
        -------------------------
        Blank yo!

        Comment


        • #5
          Try before you buy! Those YJM Strats are difficult to play. The hige E and even the B strings constantly slide off the finger board. The quality of the YJM Strat isn't any better than Mexican made Strats. For almost two grand you can get a much better guitar. If you have to have one, buy used. They are not worth the money new. I've played several YJM's and was never impressed by any of them.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by rattojack View Post
            Try before you buy! Those YJM Strats are difficult to play. The hige E and even the B strings constantly slide off the finger board. The quality of the YJM Strat isn't any better than Mexican made Strats. For almost two grand you can get a much better guitar. If you have to have one, buy used. They are not worth the money new. I've played several YJM's and was never impressed by any of them.
            You arent kidding about the high e sliding off! I just tried one the other day at GC, and I literally couldnt do anything on the high e because it kept sliding off. Though, this isnt a quality issue, as it is located perfectly over the fretboard. Its a combination of the radius of the board and not being used to the scallops... theres no fretboard for your finger to "drag" on when you go to the high e. Its definitley a different monster than most people are used to, though I could see getting used to a guitar like that making one a much cleaner and precise player.
            Imagine, being able to be magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi... Im in... Delaware...

            Comment


            • #7
              I think the high E falling off is a Fender design flaw. Why do you think Wayne Charvel changed his neck heel to 2-1/4 instead of the Fender 2-3/16?

              Comment


              • #8
                It's mainly an issue of fingerboard radius and scallop depth.

                Current YJM's have an avg. 7.7" - 8" radius, basically vintage Fender specs as opposed to modern radii (in spite of whatever the specs are, I've measured them) and the scalloping is too deep, which both cause string slippage and fretted notes being out of tune unless you use a very light touch.

                This, combined with a less than stellar fret job, also means that the action is generally quite high in order to avoid fret buzz, so you must really squeeze those strings and basically forget about playing in tune...

                I've tried other necks with a "proper" radius for this style, i.e. 12" non-compounded, and a much shallower scalloping, and their playability was excellent.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by surfreak View Post
                  It's mainly an issue of fingerboard radius and scallop depth.

                  Current YJM's have an avg. 7.7" - 8" radius, basically vintage Fender specs as opposed to modern radii (in spite of whatever the specs are, I've measured them) and the scalloping is too deep, which both cause string slippage and fretted notes being out of tune unless you use a very light touch.

                  This, combined with a less than stellar fret job, also means that the action is generally quite high in order to avoid fret buzz, so you must really squeeze those strings and basically forget about playing in tune...

                  I've tried other necks with a "proper" radius for this style, i.e. 12" non-compounded, and a much shallower scalloping, and their playability was excellent.
                  Yeah, I have to agree. I had a YJM for several years. It was a 2003. My high E was going off the side all the time. I later built a Warmoth with the 12-16' compound radius with full scallop, and that neck plays like a dream
                  Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    And here I just chalked it up to my inexperience!
                    Imagine, being able to be magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi... Im in... Delaware...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Wow - I've not experienced the "high E falling off" syndrome. Maybe I got a good one. I will say that a buddy of mine did some setup work (mostly the brass nut) before he shipped it to me. He did say that it was one of the worst-playing Fenders his shop had ever gotten right out of the box. But the guitar plays great now.

                      As for what years might be closer to the Duck (outside of the $12.5K CS version), I think it would be the 2007-and-later models. Those guitars have deeper scalloping and threaded inserts for the neck screws to more accurately reflect Yngwie's personal specs. But they don't mimic the three-bolt-to-four-bolt conversion on the original Duck.

                      And be sure to buy a leopard-print DiMarzio Clik strap for it along with a pair of leather pants for yourself.

                      Takeoffs are optional but landings are mandatory.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        it's almost funny how hard those guitars are to play the first time you try one.

                        damn. made me respect the maestro that much more.
                        the guitar players look damaged - they've been outcasts all their lives

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have a YJM mutt, and yup, definitely requires a VERY light touch. But it does make you a better player.

                          Once you get used to it, you play much better on all guitars.

                          Malmsteen himself has said (closing remark in one of his earlier instructional videos) that the scalloping makes the guitar harder to play, not easier.... so go in expecting a learning curve, and you'll be ok


                          - Leo.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            What does he use as his neck position pup? Is it some dimarzio or the fender one?
                            I hooked up my accelerator pedal in my car to my brake lights. I hit the gas, people behind me stop, and I'm gone.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Jacksonguy666 View Post
                              What does he use as his neck position pup? Is it some dimarzio or the fender one?
                              Bridge: DiMarzio HS-3

                              Neck: DiMarzio YJM

                              both are stacked humbuckers (he sometimes has the HS-3 in the neck position of some guitars as well... but generally it's the YJM in the neck)


                              - Leo.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X