Jackson JDR Concept (Floyd Rose question)

[metalgent]

I'm confused. metalgent, which bridge do you have? Earlier in the thread you said you had a JT500 which I understand is the default bridge for a Concept. But then you posted the picture of the red guitar which has a JT580. Is that red guitar yours? If not, post photos of your actual guitar and we can identify what bridge you have, and what aftermarket bridge will fit.

The red guitar is mine. I said "I think the bridge is JT500" but since I'm no expert, it looks like (based on the comments on this thread) that my bridge is a JT580.

[Number Of The Priest]

OK. Since the red guitar is yours, and it's a JT580, you should be able to swap it for an OFR/Lockmeister without problems... and also possibly the GE1996T but I haven't done the research into its dimensions so it would be good to do your due diligence. Report back if the GE1996T fits without modifying anything.

[metalgent]

OK. Since the red guitar is yours, and it's a JT580, you should be able to swap it for an OFR/Lockmeister without problems... and also possibly the GE1996T but I haven't done the research into its dimensions so it would be good to do your due diligence. Report back if the GE1996T fits without modifying anything.

Thanks a lot! Now a quick question: Between the OFR and Lockmeister, which one would be better? I'm inclined to swap with the OFR but there's a difference in price and availabitlity where I live so, it'd be good if there's any relevants pro/cons between the 2.

Again, thanks for all the info and I'll report back once I've done the swap.

[Number Of The Priest]

If you did a blind test between two identical guitar models and one was equipped with an OFR and the other had a Lockmeister, I think you would be hard pressed to tell them apart. The Lockmeister is supposed to be Schaller's OEM product. The OFR is technically the same bridge, only with a "Floyd Rose" stamp on it, as a product made for the Floyd Rose company. I would choose whichever of the two is more affordable... unless the GE1996T is even more affordable and you've done your research to ensure its dimensions are identical and compatible with any route where an OFR would fit.

[ed]

I would also probably go with Lockmeister mind you i have never had Lockmeister in anything so i cant really tell how it is. I would probably never pay the 300-400 euros that the OFR costs.

I have a had Gotohs and i have a spare OEM one and i can tell you the locking screws are a bit longer than in the OFR. Also i dont like the screw in arm Gotohs have that much.

One thing you have to also consider is that attleast the gotoh and schaller not sure about the lockmeister come with 42mm sustain block if you buy it new. That is if you donty buy it straight from their webpage. Maybe some retailers have different size too but almost all that ive bought or seen are 42 mm. Most dinky bodies and soloists take 32mm sustain block.

[metalgent]

I would also probably go with Lockmeister mind you i have never had Lockmeister in anything so i cant really tell how it is. I would probably never pay the 300-400 euros that the OFR costs.

I have a had Gotohs and i have a spare OEM one and i can tell you the locking screws are a bit longer than in the OFR. Also i dont like the screw in arm Gotohs have that much.

One thing you have to also consider is that attleast the gotoh and schaller not sure about the lockmeister come with 42mm sustain block if you buy it new. That is if you donty buy it straight from their webpage. Maybe some retailers have different size too but almost all that ive bought or seen are 42 mm. Most dinky bodies and soloists take 32mm sustain block.

The Schaller Lockmeiter is the more afordable and available to me. From their website you can choose the block and nut size so, I can select the 32 block. Now the nut is a question I still am about to solve. I'm not sure if I should pick 43 or 42.

[metalgent]

Based on the PDFs I found on the Schaller site, the R2 and R3 nuts are the same in terms of width but what it's different is the height and distance between strings. Also, the holes to mount them into the neck seems to be different. I think I'd only know which one to buy once I disassemble my guitar and measure the holes.

[Number Of The Priest]

metalgent, if I were you, I would keep the stock nut on your Concept (and keep the stock trem posts), and only change the bridge. I realize you might need to specify a nut to come with the bridge when you order it as a bundle, so maybe just choose the nut that best matches your stock nut and keep it handy but probably never need to install it.

I re-read your first post to find your rationale of why you wanted to upgrade the bridge. Upgrading is great if your intention is an upgrade. But I noticed that you wrote only the string blocks weren't good. Is the rest of the bridge good and performing well? If so, it would be cheaper to simply replace the string blocks instead of replacing the entire bridge, unless of course your really wanted an upgrade.

Also i dont like the screw in arm Gotohs have that much.

I agree, I prefer the collared arm of the OFR. But I know some people like the Gotoh screw-in arm and I respect their preference.

[metalgent]

metalgent, if I were you, I would keep the stock nut on your Concept (and keep the stock trem posts), and only change the bridge. I realize you might need to specify a nut to come with the bridge when you order it as a bundle, so maybe just choose the nut that best matches your stock nut and keep it handy but probably never need to install it.

I re-read your first post to find your rationale of why you wanted to upgrade the bridge. Upgrading is great if your intention is an upgrade. But I noticed that you wrote only the string blocks weren't good. Is the rest of the bridge good and performing well? If so, it would be cheaper to simply replace the string blocks instead of replacing the entire bridge, unless of course your really wanted an upgrade.



I agree, I prefer the collared arm of the OFR. But I know some people like the Gotoh screw-in arm and I respect their preference.

Thanks again Number Of The Priest ! The bridge works fine as is. I mean, I'm not a whammy-bar master by no means and tbh I barely use it, so yes perhaps changing the string blocks would be the cheapest and easiest solution here.

[metalgent]

I perhaps could also change the whole saddle if for example, the OFR would be a fit. That'd also bit cheaper

[metalgent]

Just to understand better, why did you suggest me to keep the trem posts and nut Number Of The Priest ?

[Number Of The Priest]

The locking nut only plays a role in locking the strings and providing the correct string spacing/height. If those are fine, and if none of the OEM nuts you need to order with your OFR/Lockmeister can fit the existing holes on the neck of your Concept as you postulated in post 22 above, just keep the existing nut installed as-is, partially "out of laziness" unless you are a stickler for replacing every component.

The trem posts are more difficult to replace. There's the risk of splitting the wood if you improperly remove the existing posts and try to install the replacement posts that come with the OFR/Lockmeister you want to buy. Why risk it if the existing posts are fine, operational, and are steady in their current state? Again, mostly "out of laziness" unless you are a stickler for replacing every component.

[metalhobo]

if you are OCD enough to replace the post studs, there's a trick to it where you put something stiff like a spare screw into the empty hole, thread the post in, and tighten down. the compression will lift the stud out of the wood. if you tighten with a t-wrench or a real hex screwdriver (as opposed to the allen key which cannot be torqued properly) the only force is vertical, so no risk of splitting. yay, mechanical advantage!

[Number Of The Priest]

I believe you're referring to this video, which is brilliant!

[metalhobo]

I believe you're referring to this video, which is brilliant!

that's a good example but the technique definitely predates that video.