Rhoads Rant

[MartinBarre]

The SGs and Gibby Vs that were made where the 22nd fret is right at the edge of the body play a lot more smoothly than the models where the 21st and 22nd fret are "in" the body.

But SGs FEEL weird as a result of that! I just traded an SG for that exact reason. I'd rather have the feel of a 24 fret Jackson than an SG. Granted it makes the neck tone harder to get right, but it's a fair trade-off IMO. (After trying various Seymour Duncans in the neck position of my KE3 I ended up putting an Epiphone bridge pickup in it, it's the best one I've tried!)

[zuppermuhle]

The only time I need 24 frets is when playing the Holy Wars solo. But I still like 24 frets on my soloist because it makes the rest of the frets more accessible because the fretboard is further away from the bridge.

And unlike some I don't like the slightly mushy tone you get with the neck pickup at the second octave.

As for why RR1 is the only USA model with 22 frets? I don't know. It could be a combination of wanting people to go custom shop(or JS series before RR24 came out...), laziness of not upgrading the product line or wanting to keep with the tradition. The last one is a bit finicky one considering the guitars are very different than the ones Randy ever played.

[z1n]

what about the scale length? Didn't randy have his PV and Concord built around his LP? They all have the LP control layout so I would assume they are all 24-3/4 scale as well and not 25.5

[PowerTube]

You guys see my point. Randy's original V's were radically different than the current Rhoads models, yet they won't make a 24-fret RR1 because "Randy's was a 22-fret." It makes no sense.

Either way, there's an RR1 here locally and I've thought about trading my SL1 against it.

[Grim]

You guys see my point. Randy's original V's were radically different than the current Rhoads models, yet they won't make a 24-fret RR1 because "Randy's was a 22-fret." It makes no sense.

Either way, there's an RR1 here locally and I've thought about trading my SL1 against it.

No no no no and no. stick with the SL1.

[PowerTube]

No no no no and no. stick with the SL1.

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. What I really want is a USA Warrior, but I may as well be looking for Jimmy Hoffa's shoes around here.

[Drake S.]

I had a USA custom shop warrior for
Almost 5 years & sold it
It's not all that , I found
The 90's Warrior Pro
To be a much better guitar.
Just ask charvel750 LoL

[MetalHeadMat]

I had a USA custom shop warrior for
Almost 5 years & sold it
It's not all that , I found
The 90's Warrior Pro
To be a much better guitar.
Just ask charvel750 LoL

If you don't mind me asking, why do you like the Warrior Pro better?

[ulijdavid]

what about the scale length? Didn't randy have his PV and Concord built around his LP? They all have the LP control layout so I would assume they are all 24-3/4 scale as well and not 25.5

The Les Paul should be 24.75" scale. I thought that Karl Sandoval had stated that the original Polka Dot V neck was made from an existing Danelectro neck. From all of the documentation I have seen on the Danelectros, they are a 25" scale. So, sounds like all three of those guitars are different scale lengths.

[Drake S.]

Over all feel & playability of the neck plus
Tone. The USA was heavier
& having the words Custom shop
On the headstock shouldn't
Cost you an extra grand
& change . Over all it just felt
& sounded better to me to play
Especially live. I'm 6'6 I
Don't want something weighing
Me down while trying to do a gig.
I had 2 pro's & the USA at
The same time , 1 pro had
A hum put in the bridge the
Other original. So I could compare
All 3 together . I loved the
Modified 1 the most, I'm prefer
The hum / single set up

[RacerX]

I'm 6'6

Did you shrink? I thought you were 6'8"

[Drake S.]

Nope been 6'6 since I was 14 just up on
The pounds at 260

[Grim]

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. What I really want is a USA Warrior, but I may as well be looking for Jimmy Hoffa's shoes around here.

You could order one, I've got a CS coming.

But yeah, the SL1 is definitely the way to go. The Rhoads is a good shape for one thing, whereas the Soloist is usable (aesthetically, at least) across multiple genres. Not to mention the playability and sonic versatility of the SL1 vs the Rhoads. In all honesty though, I really want a Rhoads. I just want a 24 fret Rhoads and you won't catch me dead going CS for two frets on a guitar I don't need.

[roodyrocker]

The upper fret access on an RR1 is just fine. I really don't notice much difference from my Rhoads' to my Soloists. The 22 vs 24 fret thing is overblown too. I play in an 80's cover band and hardly ever "need" 24 frets. As far as looks go, the Rhoads is hands down the most badass looking axe

[Grim]

The upper fret access on an RR1 is just fine. I really don't notice much difference from my Rhoads' to my Soloists. The 22 vs 24 fret thing is overblown too. I play in an 80's cover band and hardly ever "need" 24 frets. As far as looks go, the Rhoads is hands down the most badass looking axe

I've stated my need for 24 frets before in this thread :P