JT-6 Tremolo Systems???

[MattG]

I recently bought another JT-6 tremolo system on Ebay. I bought it to replace a couple of really worn saddles, and misc small things on the tremolo that was already on my Model 6, that we all talked about earlier.

Everything seems identical except for the block which looks a little different. The original block has a screw coming up through it directly in the center, and the opposite side a nut. While the trem I bought off ebay...does not.

Like I said everything else seems identical, I bought this trem to have extra parts for my Model 6 as they seem to be getting harder and harder to find originals.

Speaking of which, I am also trying to find an original trem arm for the system. Anyone know where I may be able to look? I am aware of Frets on The Net, but would really like an original. Most likely will go with Frets so I have a trem arm, while I keep searching.

Also, with these bridges, do you all prefer it floating or flush up against the body? Just curious....

Thanks Matt

[dg]

If the bushing is still OK, an Ibanez push-in replacement bar (available at pretty much any shop or online) is virtually identical to the original bar. Other than that, eBay or maybe the classifieds here are about your only options for finding an original. There's no real resale value advantage to keeping it original, and those bars are flimsy, so I'd put an OFR bar on it or get one of Dave's from Frets on the net.

No idea what's going on with the two blocks. Can you post pics?

As for your last question, with a Model 6 you have a neck angle that can't be changed with shimming like you can with a bolt-on, so you pretty much have to leave the trem sitting high off the body. If you want to block it for dive-only, you can do it from inside the cavity with a wood block, trem-stop (also something you can get at Frets on the Net), or by adding a Tremol-no. Personally, I leave all of my floyds floating.

[Sharkfin]

+1 on the Ibanez Edge trem bars. I purchased one as a replacement when I still had my JT-6 on my soloist. I can't really tell the difference between them.

[Tommie]

The jt6 bars are weak, I broke lots before changing out the bushing part for a Floyd one. I could tell when they were about to let go, they'd start clunking like they were getting loose, then suddenly they just shear at the narrow section where the nylon washer sits.

My us soloist had the plain block, while a later charvette had the little screw/nut through the block. It should allow you to set the amount of pullup or set the bridge to dive only without sitting back on the body, but in practice it's nigh on impossible to adjust in situ, so you have to set it with the strings off and hope for the best.

[MattG]

is it the ibanez edge pro that will work? ill try 2 post pics this weekend. tommie you mean like a tremstop built right into the block? could be but no screw to reach across to other side of the trem cavity.

[Sharkfin]

Yes, the Ibanez Edge Pro bar will work

[Axewielder]

I recently upgraded one to the collared variery. I couldn't believe how soft the metal was on those original bushings. I think they are made of pewter!

[toejam]

As for your last question, with a Model 6 you have a neck angle that can't be changed with shimming like you can with a bolt-on, so you pretty much have to leave the trem sitting high off the body. If you want to block it for dive-only, you can do it from inside the cavity with a wood block, trem-stop (also something you can get at Frets on the Net), or by adding a Tremol-no. Personally, I leave all of my floyds floating.

Though, you can put the trem down on the body and shim the saddles.

[dg]

I guess you could, but looking at my Model 6, the shims would have to be about 1/4" thick and I'd need to find longer screws to mount the saddles.