OFR and Floyd Rose Pro interchangeable when non-recessed?

[thesoloist]

ah right so it isn't too big a deal if i don't get it exactly right, as long as it's got the room to move? I know the shelf under the fine tuners is going to have to be dremeled but what was the other part you said you had to route? The inertia block seems to have quiet a wide range on motion on mine so i don't know if i would have to sand that bit down. I've never really used a dremel before and i plan on picking one up tomorrow, what bit did you use for each part of the route? (before anyone says anything about screwing up the guitar, this project is a learning experience for me so i would like to do all the mods myself and I'm not too concerned about screwing the body up.)
Would a drill with the right sanding attachment be sufficient or would i just be much better of putting in the cash for a dremel?

[DrDoug]

Invest in the Dremel, it is much easier to control than a drill. Get the flex shaft adapter/kit, or just get the Dremel Advantage. I have both, but the Advantage is my favorite to use. I hang it from my ceiling in the garage for work like this. It keeps the flex shaft straighter, and the motor can't fall at an inopportune time (like when you are just about done with the cut...lol). Lube the cable in the shaft well, and when you start it up cold, let it run at the lowest setting for about a minute. Keep the flex shaft straight and you will hear the RPM's gradually increase as it warms up.

Get the double sided accessory bit tray (clear cover on each side, blue handle across the center) as it has everything you need for just about every project you can think of. I used the #9901 tungsten carbide cutter for contouring the tight corners, the #430 (1/4") and #407 (1/2") sanding drum bits, both with the #438 (1/4" x 120 grit) and #432 (1/2" x 120 grit) sanding drums on them. I used these to cut the high E side of the body rout so it was the same as the low E side, and to remove material from the back shelf side of the hole that the inertia block passes through (to allow full slackening of the strings/dive bomb).

If you need to lower the back shelf so the bottoms of the tuners clear it on pull-ups (I had to), you can use the #115 high speed cutter (fast material removal) to go straight down in the rout and lower the shelf floor. It has teeth on the sides and bottom of it, so you use it like a free hand router. Works like a champ, but...

Get some scrap wood and practice with the bits. I keep the speed at the lowest setting for this work, it gives you better control. The edge and inertia block area work is easy, so that practice will go fast. What you really want to practice is using the #115 bit to cut a level shelf and the #9901 bit to shape the corners. With a bit of practice, you will get how to do it. Practice is essential, you do not want to practice on your guitar!

My RR3 had a thin foam pad that covered the rear shelf. I ripped that out first, then I took a thin level off, checked, and kept taking levels off until I got it just right. I had some thin (1/16") smooth black rubber mat on hand, so once I taped the body up, painted it and let it dry, I used spray glue on the back of the rubber mat I cut for it and laid it down on the shelf. It looks like it came that way now.

I marked out the outer edge of the body rout (high E side) with blue painters tape. Mark where you want to stop, and leave what you have to trim bare (no tape) as the cutter will mess up the tape and you will not be able to see your rout edge clearly (and you may cut it lopsided). Sand the long sides to where you want them, then work the corners to shape them to match. When you remove the tape, now that you have cut to the edge of the tape, you want to pull the tape towards the rout to keep from possibly lifting and peeling the paint (which could happen if you pull the tape away from the rout). Just a precaution, but better safe then sorry!

Do not hurry, it is easier to remove material than replace it! It sounds like a lot of work, but I finished mine in about 15 minutes. Once you understand the best way to use the Dremel (practice!), you will have no problem doing it.

Hope this helps, and if need anything clarified just ask!

[thesoloist]

thanks a ton for writing that out. I'll go down the hardware store tomorrow and see what i can get. I peeled that thin sheet of foam off so I'll grab some material to replace that as well. Iv'e also got plenty of wood to practice on so I'll defiantly get to know my tool before starting. Luckily i have some black enamel lying around so that's not a problem. thanks again