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Technical Info, Paint to Parts

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  • #16
    [email protected] or AIM: RobNJTA [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
    Imagine, being able to be magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi... Im in... Delaware...


    • #17
      Will a ____ neck fit on a _____ body?

      Another popular topic. here's a few bits of info:

      - Most Charvel/Jackson necks will not fit a Warmoth/Fender/Fender licensed body.

      The majority of C/J necks have a butt width of 2 1/4" which makes them too wide to fit in Warmoth or Fender/Fender licensed bodies without modifying the neck pocket (routing it out 1/32" on each side) or the neck heel (sanding it to fit). So if you see a C/J neck that you want to buy for a parts monster, get a measurement of the neck heel first and plan accordingly.

      - Warmoth/Fender/Fender licensed necks will fit on Charvel/Jackson bodies.

      However, you will most likely have a 1/16" gap in the pocket, which is not the greatest place in the world to have a loose tolerance. Some people don't care about that kind of a gap. Don't be one of those people. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] You can shim the sides of the neck pocket with thin wooden shims, or strips of 150 grit sandpaper. You can also drop a little bit of superglue into the screw holes in the neck heel; that will help the screws bite in a little better and improve your fit. At the time of this posting, Warmoth is considering making a neck that will work as a Jackson replacement (with the correct neck heel width), but as of right now, they do not offer it.

      - 24 fret necks need bodies that accomodate a 24 fret neck.

      If you put a 24 fret neck on a 22 fret body,(and vice versa) it's not gonna intonate, and it's probably gonna cover up the neck pickup rout. That's bad. You also cannot do the opposite and put a 22 fret neck on a 24 fret body (just being thorough!). At the time of this post, Warmoth does not make a true 24 fret neck; they offer a standard 22 fret neck with a crazy overhang (which won't work if you have a neck pickup rout, or be very functional on a strat body even if you don't have a neck pickup.). I believe that Mighty Mite makes a true 24 fret replacement neck, but I haven't purchased one, so I can't say for certain. You can buy those necks here, and they're pretty cheap.

      You can, however, put a 21 fret neck on a 22 fret body and vice versa.

      I hope this helps some of you guys.

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      • #18
        More neck-swapping info

        Just saw Sully's sticky that answers the most commonly asked neck-swapping Qs, but here's a few more that you might find interesting/useful:

        Import Jackson necks
        At some point in the last few years (2003/4?) Jackson switched their neck bolts from a fatter one to a thinner one. All recent imports I've seen feature the thinner bolts. This also means the holes in the body and the neck are thinner than the older 90's necks/bodies, so if you try to put a 1996 Dinky Professional neck on a 2003/4 Warrior body, you'll hafta make the holes in the body bigger. Thinner bolts won't seat properly in the larger neck holes, and fatter bolts won't go through the smaller pocket holes easily. However, I did put a mid-90s Stone Finish Dinky neck (offset dots, reverse head), on a 2002 DK-2 body with no neck bolt problems, so I don't have a definite "changeover" time.

        The Seemingly Infinite Jackson Neckplate Stash on Ebay
        Many of these are taken from recent imports, and thus use the thinner bolts. If you go for a bolt/plate set, make sure it's from the same period your neck/body are. Serial numbers that are 7-digits long or more are *generally* found on post-2000 Japanese/Indian models and have the thinner bolts, 6-digit numbers are *generally* found on pre-2000 Japanese models and have the fatter bolts.

        Neck-swapping considerations
        #1 - Older neck bolt holes may not align with newer pocket holes. I put an early-90s USA Fusion neck on a recent WRXT body and had to drill new holes in both the body and neck to make them fit correctly because the original USA neck holes were closer to the heel than the ones in the body, leaving a 1/4" gap between the heel and the rear of the pocket.

        #2 - Non-trem necks may have angled heels that are fairly specific to the body they originally came from, and putting them on a different type of body may require drastic adjustments.
        I put a recent Guitar Center Archtop DK neck on a recent JS30WR body, which is NOT arched. The neck heel, being shaped/angled specifically for the DK body, causes the neck to tilt back on the WR body far more than the original WR neck, and I had to raise the bridge and pickups considerably - almost to the point that the bridge posts are coming out of the inserts. As well, given the string-through design, the strings now "break" across the back of the bridge behind the saddles. This can lead to problems of premature string breakage if you do a lot of bending, however it does increase the downward force and contact area between the strings and bridge, so there may be some tonal considerations in that respect.

        #3 - Most Jackson neck heels I've seen are identical, however there is at least one import neck that will have to be modded to work on anything other than the original body - the JTX. This neck heel extends all the way to the edge of the fretboard, whereas the majority of 24 fret Jackson neck heels stop at the 23rd fret, with the 24th fret overhanging onto the body. Obviously this throws the bolt-holes off as well. Keep this in mind if you find a JTX body *OR* neck and hope to use either one with a non-JTX-model counterpart.

        Seat the neck in the pocket and place the bolt you are planning to use alongside the pocket as if you were looking at a cross-section of the neck/body/bolt to see if the bolt tip will penetrate the fretboard. If the tip of the bolt is even with the fretboard, it'll probably go in and push up a fret once it's bolted on. Remember, those bolts are flush-mounted into the neckplate, so there's not much of a variation allowance in the length of the bolt. This is especially important to remember/check when putting a neck from a body with a straight neck pocket on a body that has an angled or scalloped neck pocket.
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        • #19
          Re: More neck-swapping info

          Great advice Newc.

          I can share some of my experiences as well.

          Bought a PS6T Kelly import body with a Jackson Professional Fusion neck. The Fusion neck was the older, large hole version (ebony, MOP sharkies). The holes in the body were large enough to fit, but the first time I re-bolted it together the front of the neck got "pushed up" with a negative angle (head up away from body). There was a gap between the neck and body in the front of the neck pocket. This caused interesting "tones" (Read in Dan Erlewines book about a guy who does this with Tele's) but I didn't like it and re-seated the neck flush. To describe the weird tones, I'd say it had the effect of killing some of the highs, and causing a weird acoustic hollowness tone.

          Next odd project was a DK-1 neck on a KE3 body. Holes on both were the "small" type. Do all USA bolt on's use small holes? Anyway, it was a bitch cranking those bolts in the last few micro-inches, but I got them in. I'm not going to be unbolting that neck any-time soon LOL!


          • #20
            Spray Can Paint (Acrylic Enamel or Lacquer):Equipment needed:Costs:Equipment needed:Costs:Bottom line is:[email protected]
            My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.


            • #21
              Technical Info, Paint to Parts

              Here's all the info you'll ever need and more ..
              Don't worry - I'll smack her if it comes to that. You do not sell guitars to buy shoes. You skimp on food to buy shoes! ~Mrs Tekky 06-03-08~