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Parts for 1986 San Dimas

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  • #31
    that poor thing. it's ok, we can fix it up real good.


    get rid of the trem. put an Floyd (or trem of your choice) on it. luckily, it is already routed for it.

    You need a nut. Period correct would most likely have had a nut and a nut lock, but you can get away with just the lock nut if you build a shelf for it. It looks like there are screw holes there from the previous nut/lock combination. And a nut truss cover (to fit the space) can be purchased at frets on the net.

    You need frets. So, while the frets are off of it, dye the fretboard to the blackest black you've ever seen.


    the rest (paint, pickups, etc) is all up to you.
    Last edited by pianoguyy; 09-18-2020, 07:50 AM.

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    • #32
      congrats on the guitar! love me the old yellowed white. I personally wouldn't change it.


      1. peel off those SJ stickers and send to me. also make sure you don't change the thin lizzy carving in the back. it's perfect.

      Originally posted by pianoguyy View Post
      that poor thing. it's ok, we can fix it up real good.


      get rid of the trem. put an Floyd (or trem of your choice) on it. luckily, it is already routed for it.

      You need a nut. Period correct would most likely have had a nut and a nut lock, but you can get away with just the lock nut if you build a shelf for it. It looks like there are screw holes there from the previous nut/lock combination. And a nut truss cover (to fit the space) can be purchased at frets on the net.

      You need frets. So, while the frets are off of it, dye the fretboard to the blackest black you've ever seen.


      the rest (paint, pickups, etc) is all up to you.
      2. wouldn't he need to drill new post holes for a floyd? that bridge has post spacing more in line with a fender 2-point trem

      3. that board looks perfect as is. that's a very nice piece of rosewood and I balk at the possibility of altering it. some conditioning would be recommendable, though.

      4. the nut you can buy pretty much anywhere. I've had good luck buying tusq nuts pre-slotted from stewmac

      5. string lock can be purchased from whammyparts.com
      Last edited by metalhobo; 09-18-2020, 10:50 AM.

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      • #33
        that poor thing. it's ok, we can fix it up real good.


        get rid of the trem. put an Floyd (or trem of your choice) on it. luckily, it is already routed for it. - I already bought spare parts to repair the Kahler, I would like to keep that original if possible for now.

        You need a nut. Period correct would most likely have had a nut and a nut lock, but you can get away with just the lock nut if you build a shelf for it. It looks like there are screw holes there from the previous nut/lock combination. And a nut truss cover (to fit the space) can be purchased at frets on the net. - It has a bone nut, but it became unglued, it will be replaced.

        You need frets. So, while the frets are off of it, dye the fretboard to the blackest black you've ever seen. - Yes, the frets need help, I will look into that at a later date, right now I just want to get the guitar playing again so I can assess whether or I should put more money in to it. Fret board is super smooth and I will not modify it in any way.


        the rest (paint, pickups, etc) is all up to you. - Not going to paint at this time, but I have some very nice Spy vs. Spy decals I will be applying!, I will leave the original pickup for now.



        Originally posted by metalhobo View Post
        congrats on the guitar! love me the old yellowed white. I personally wouldn't change it.


        1. peel off those SJ stickers and send to me. also make sure you don't change the thin lizzy carving in the back. it's perfect. - Stickers are now gone, the entire body was once covered with decals and pictures, I even had a Brett Butler baseball card on it. Thin Lizzy stays!

        2. wouldn't he need to drill new post holes for a floyd? that bridge has post spacing more in line with a fender 2-point trem - I will not change it at this time.

        3. that board looks perfect as is. that's a very nice piece of rosewood and I balk at the possibility of altering it. some conditioning would be recommendable, though. - I fully agree, rosewood is beautiful.

        4. the nut you can buy pretty much anywhere. I've had good luck buying tusq nuts pre-slotted from stewmac - I have a bone nut, but I will probably have a new one installed

        5. string lock can be purchased from whammyparts.com
        - It has a string lock, I just didn't put it in the picture because I have disassembled it, but it will be used again

        Thanks for the comments and advise.


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        • #34
          That may be a shit-ass trem but that guitar is legit and looks bad-ass. I've also seen at least one other '86 soloist with that trem "back in the day". Agree the aged white / ivory finish is SUPER COOL.

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          • #35
            If you have a 2520 on your guitar, you may want to upgrade to a 2700. Ebay has it all, though it's been mighty dry lately.

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            • #36
              Sweet guitar... I'm guessing it falls into the 1700-2000 serial range ? I recently sold a neon pink Soloist Student model that came with a 2520,which I switched to a 2700. It had a JE-1000 serial number was J1996 if memory serves me.. Sadly the guy that bought it then told me it was a gift for his buddy and had it poorly painted Ferrari red with a Ferrari sticker put on it... I was sick over it, as the guitar was like new.
              Just got a new single hum soloist custom yesterday...factory Floyd and no active stuff. Black binding over frets.. fun little axe. Seems one can no longer simply upload pics or I'd post...

              Look around, and dont jump on the first bridge you see, 2520's are usually pitted up, but nice ones do pop up from time to time

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              • #37
                Originally posted by peedenmark7 View Post
                Sweet guitar... I'm guessing it falls into the 1700-2000 serial range ? I recently sold a neon pink Soloist Student model that came with a 2520,which I switched to a 2700. It had a JE-1000 serial number was J1996 if memory serves me..

                Look around, and dont jump on the first bridge you see, 2520's are usually pitted up, but nice ones do pop up from time to time
                You are correct, serial number is J1900, made in 1986.
                I was able to put together a working Kahler 2500 tremelo using parts from the original and parts I was able to find online (ebay, Stewmac, Whammy parts) and it works like new.
                Took the guitar to a local repair teach and had it set up and intonated. Guitar plays like it's 1986 all over again!
                I will leave it the way it is for now, it's not pretty, but it rocks like a Mofo!!!


                https://freeimage.host/i/3v4gPp
                https://freeimage.host/i/3v4UVR
                https://freeimage.host/i/3v44KN
                https://freeimage.host/i/3v46lI
                https://freeimage.host/i/3v4sHX
                https://freeimage.host/i/3v4LRn
                https://freeimage.host/i/3v4PSt
                https://freeimage.host/i/3v4QNs


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                • #38
                  looks fantastic!

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                  • #39
                    Very nice guitar! Keep it as original as possible, as there are not many 1-Hum Soloists out there.
                    If you wish, you could go for a black tusq nut one day to make it look even more original.

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