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Potential finish issue with my DK1

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  • #31
    Has anyone here actually done this superglue DIY repair? Was it a success? I have two RR1s and both have this clear coat issue.

    The idea is to drill holes on the clearcoat and drop thin CA glue in? Is Loctite 420 thin enough? Is there a possibility that CA glue damages the MOP logo somehow?
    My Jacksons: RR1 x2, RR Pro, Soloist Pro, RRXMG x2, SDX, JS32RR

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    • #32
      Checking for this issue is often my first rule when looking at potential used Jacksons.
      96xxxxx, 97xxxxx and 98xxxxx serials oftentimes don't indicate '96, '97 and '98.

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      • #33
        I have limited experience seeing this issue, but so far I only recall ever seeing this happen on USA Jacksons with MOP logos. Does that sound about right? I can't recall seeing it happen on:

        1) USA Jacksons with abalone logos, though abalone logos are rare anyway.

        2) Japanese Jackson Professional Pro Series with MOP logos. You'd think this would happen in the same proportion as the USA MOP logos.

        3) Non-inlaid logos, which are on other import Jacksons/Charvels.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Zedder View Post
          Has anyone here actually done this superglue DIY repair? Was it a success? I have two RR1s and both have this clear coat issue.

          The idea is to drill holes on the clearcoat and drop thin CA glue in? Is Loctite 420 thin enough? Is there a possibility that CA glue damages the MOP logo somehow?
          I used pink label ZAP CA glue. It comes with small tubes that make applying the glue easier than that Loctite one. CA does not damage MOP. Some guitar builders use CA for inlays.

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          • #35
            I've done super glue chip repairs. I've rebuilt busted pointy noses with super glue.

            I haven't done a headstock yet. But I bought a 1992 USA RR with a damaged headstock face like it took a major whack from the underside. It is shattered. Gives me ideas on repairing it, but I think it really needs to be stripped and just painted with a replacement logo.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Kisonen View Post
              I used pink label ZAP CA glue. It comes with small tubes that make applying the glue easier than that Loctite one. CA does not damage MOP. Some guitar builders use CA for inlays.
              You mean this I think: https://fi.eurorc.com/product/5220/z...thin-12oz-14gr

              Should I order these too or is the can´s nozzle good enough: https://fi.eurorc.com/product/12075/...-thin-nozzle-6
              My Jacksons: RR1 x2, RR Pro, Soloist Pro, RRXMG x2, SDX, JS32RR

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              • #37
                Originally posted by Zedder View Post
                You mean this I think: https://fi.eurorc.com/product/5220/z...thin-12oz-14gr

                Should I order these too or is the can´s nozzle good enough: https://fi.eurorc.com/product/12075/...-thin-nozzle-6
                Yes thats the one. Those nozzles look little better than the ZAP CA included ones.

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                • #38
                  Check hobby stores, good one have various formulations of CA including thin and thin/wicking, they will also have special "whip" tips for applying it,

                  You want to practice of something besides the guitar before using it as the thin stuff will can away from you........
                  A few Charvels, a bunch of Jacksons, JVM full stack, valve king half stack and an 4000 watt PA for a home stereo, my neighbors love me....

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                  • #39
                    Clear coat is not cracked and cannot be lifted, so there is no route to get glue under it unless I drill holes with a dremel. I wonder how thick is the black paint layer under the clearcoat, is there a possibility that drill goes thru it into wood?

                    I already ordered ZAP CA glue and those nozzles..
                    My Jacksons: RR1 x2, RR Pro, Soloist Pro, RRXMG x2, SDX, JS32RR

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                    • #40
                      Isn't a syringe sometimes used in this process to apply the glue, or has that been mentioned?

                      NOTP, I seem to remember reading (quite possibly on this forum) that this issue was more common on models from the 2000-'10 area USA's, but don't quote me on that.

                      I don't think it was ever an 'issue' on imports. I'm not sure about the abalone logo'd hs's.
                      96xxxxx, 97xxxxx and 98xxxxx serials oftentimes don't indicate '96, '97 and '98.

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Zedder View Post
                        Clear coat is not cracked and cannot be lifted, so there is no route to get glue under it unless I drill holes with a dremel. I wonder how thick is the black paint layer under the clearcoat, is there a possibility that drill goes thru it into wood?

                        I already ordered ZAP CA glue and those nozzles..
                        Clearcoat can be over 1mm thick. Black paint is not very thick You might drill into wood. If you you do just touch that up with some black paint or ink. I would use thinnest drill bits I can find for drilling those holes. 1mm or so.

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                        • #42
                          OK, I tried this DIY fix:

                          Clearcoat is indeed about 1 mm thick over the MOP logo. (On japanese Professional Pro´s it is much thinner than that. That might partially explain why this problem does not occur on them.) I drilled holes on that polyester(?) `plate´ and after I got thru I tried to get CA glue in: Yes, this defect is caused by delamination, that came clear to me when some of the greyed areas became black again. Glue did not travel far enough under that thick clearcoat layer, though. This ZAP CA (pink) I used is like water, If there is even thinner CA glue available it may make somekind of difference but you still have to drill several holes if gray area is large. After drilling 3 holes I came to the conclusion that this is not worth the trouble.

                          If you have one small defect on your guitar´s headstock then it might be a good idea to fix it this way and it may prevent it getting worse, but when area is this large as on my RR1´s headstock it is not, I think. If you are buying a a used Made in USA Jackson and it has this defect you just have to live with it or try to find another one without delamination.
                          --
                          This manufacturing defect went on for several years and Jackson did not do anything? It is clear that these defects should have been fixed by Jackson on every case. How soon after manufacturing did those appear? Why did not customers demand repairs under warranty? That should have made Jackson to understand something was wrong with the process.

                          Does the new USA (Custom) Select Jacksons have also this thick clearcoat layer on headstocks?
                          My Jacksons: RR1 x2, RR Pro, Soloist Pro, RRXMG x2, SDX, JS32RR

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