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Hi everyone.. I've been playing for over 20 years and have had WAY too many guitars to count. Mostly BC Rich Superstrats, Gibsons, Peavey Wolfgangs and now Jacksons. I've had a NICE Erie Des SL1 (early 90's) that played like butter.. BUT I sold it. I then bought a brand new SL2H in Trans Blue (2001) and sold it. I missed my Jacksons then bought another SL1 in trans red (used) and it just didn't "feel" right and sold it within a few days. I went another couple of years without any Jacksons and then I stumbled on the deal of a lifetime. A 2001 SL2H in Interference Cyan/Magenta. Guy used in his studio and was thinning the herd. When I pulled the trigger on this one it was literally like a brand new guitar. There is NOTHING wrong with this thing. I could pass for new. 800.00 Sometimes I'm so lucky its amazing!
Here is my deal... I normally played with 10's to standard and occasionally Eb. When I put 10's on this thing (with 4 springs) it seems like i have to crank the claw screws in VERY far. Maybe 1/4 inch left on the threads. I think this is pretty odd. I've never noticed this "lack of wiggle room" in other guitars of any manufacture. I would think that the backplate cavity would be "standard" on all Jacksons. Do I just have some super loose springs?? I can't put a fifth spring on b/c I have the FloydUpgrades trem stop installed. For now I've settled for 9's (which I'm actually starting to like better)
I'm also having what I'll label "sustain" issues. I seem to get significant sustain BUT I get more out of a bolt on USA BC Rich ST-III that has a Tone Zone in the bridge. I have rewired everything to make sure it wasn't an electrical issue. Everything reads ok on my multimeter. It also seems to be "darker" than my alder bc rich bolt-on that has a rosewood board. I would have bet the farm that a SL2H should be significantly brighter! Am I wrong? Are my woes coming from the JB? I'm thinking of doing a no-load mod on the tone pot (as opposed to taking it out of the loop all together). I may just try to swap out the pup as well. I really dig the Tone Zone in my BC Rich, has anyone tried one in a SL2H?
Oh yeah.. one more thing. The SL2H also has a perfect small square cut out on the side of the trem cavity and you can see the pickup height adjustment screw for the one side in there. Does anyone else know what the deal is with that? I would almost think it was a error in the routing but its literally perfect. Is it normal?
Sorry for all the questions but I am new here and anxious to talk shop with everyone.
On a final note.. I'm starting to gas for a usa production charvel and find myself contemplating the sale of the sl2h. Someone PLEASE talk some sense into me!
Here is my deal... I normally played with 10's to standard and occasionally Eb. When I put 10's on this thing (with 4 springs) it seems like i have to crank the claw screws in VERY far. Maybe 1/4 inch left on the threads. I think this is pretty odd. I've never noticed this "lack of wiggle room" in other guitars of any manufacture. I would think that the backplate cavity would be "standard" on all Jacksons. Do I just have some super loose springs?? I can't put a fifth spring on b/c I have the FloydUpgrades trem stop installed. For now I've settled for 9's (which I'm actually starting to like better)
I'm also having what I'll label "sustain" issues. I seem to get significant sustain BUT I get more out of a bolt on USA BC Rich ST-III that has a Tone Zone in the bridge. I have rewired everything to make sure it wasn't an electrical issue. Everything reads ok on my multimeter. It also seems to be "darker" than my alder bc rich bolt-on that has a rosewood board. I would have bet the farm that a SL2H should be significantly brighter! Am I wrong? Are my woes coming from the JB? I'm thinking of doing a no-load mod on the tone pot (as opposed to taking it out of the loop all together). I may just try to swap out the pup as well. I really dig the Tone Zone in my BC Rich, has anyone tried one in a SL2H?
Oh yeah.. one more thing. The SL2H also has a perfect small square cut out on the side of the trem cavity and you can see the pickup height adjustment screw for the one side in there. Does anyone else know what the deal is with that? I would almost think it was a error in the routing but its literally perfect. Is it normal?
Sorry for all the questions but I am new here and anxious to talk shop with everyone.
On a final note.. I'm starting to gas for a usa production charvel and find myself contemplating the sale of the sl2h. Someone PLEASE talk some sense into me!
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