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  • Originally posted by Mudlark View Post
    I probably told you the same thing on facebook not long ago. There was a Dinky EX involved if I'm not mistaken?

    I can assure you, the Reverb guitar is a 2006 or later model not only because of the serial, but the specs/hardware.
    If you have the exact guitar with a 985xxxx serial, it'd probably be a 2010-11 DK2. Those numbers ran in sequence.

    My 9853xxx DKMGT is stamped June 2011 in the neck pocket. Japanese production stopped towards the end of 2011.

    The DX1 wasn't made past '97, and they had a 'Professional' headstock logo.

    The only way you're gonna' be satisfied with certainty is to remove the neck and check the date/model stamps.

    Google image Jackson DX1 and DK2 Japan.

    So,
    would you say the DK2 is the better quality guitar.
    I will do some more research. Was the DK2 an alder body?

    Comment


    • Originally posted by dmitchell101 View Post
      Was the DK2 an alder body?
      Alder body on solid colors. Alder body with a flame maple veneer on transparent finishes like the guitar listed on Reverb that you linked.

      Comment


      • Hello, new Jackson Dinky owner here.
        Looking for the country of origin and comments on build quality, and the species of wood the body is made of.
        I figure it is still MIJ, but not 1997 as in the sellers lising.

        I read a ton of the serial number posts here and elsewhere and am a bit confused.
        It is solid black body, with binding on the neck and headstock.

        I understand the 7 digit serial # is sequential, and looked through the Catalog archives, which some years are missing, or they are only about finishes, or signature series, etc.
        My neck plate says Jackson and the serial # is 9738710 and nothing else.
        I pulled the neck and the stamps are DK2 and 2005.
        The licensed FR says Jackson on the bass side; best I can tell it is a JT-580LP, It has the short string lock screws in front of the fine tuners.
        The tuners say Jackson in the round part on the back, and the tuner knobs and tip of the peg are black, while the rest is chrome.
        The headstock says Jackson with a little trademark R,no PRO or Professional, and the truss rod cover is blank, no writing.
        The pickups are the Duncan Designed HSS.

        Here is the sellers Reverb listing:
        https://reverb.com/item/5727284-jack...with-hard-case

        I like it a lot, it is in excellent condition, the pickups sound fine, but the trem does not return to zero as is the case with many licensed FR. I have licensed FR experience with an Ibanez S470 I wish I never sold. I pulled it and the knife edges have the plating worn off a little. I could not tell if the posts are nicked. The post anchors are not pulled up but I did not try rocking them in the holes.

        I would consider a Gotoh GE1996T as a replacement but the string lock screws are the long type and I dont know if they would fit the route, or if I can use the shorter screws instead.


        Thanks forward,
        John
        Last edited by jrnj; 01-23-2018, 10:32 PM.

        Comment


        • Welcome to the forum!

          The DK2 was the top Dinky model of the Japanese Pro Series of the 2000s decade. On solid finishes, the body wood is alder. On transparent finishes, the body wood is alder with a flame maple veneer.

          The 9xxxxxx serial number format common to Japanese Jacksons of the 2000s makes many sellers erroneously believe they were manufactured in the late-90s.

          You've already done more than most people by analyzing the neck heel and neck pocket stamps. The 2005 stamps you identified would be congruent with the hardware seen on your guitar. Prior to 2006, it was chrome hardware and Duncan Designed pickups, like the guitar you bought. Starting in 2006, the DK2 received all black hardware and Seymour Duncan pickups.

          Cosmetic changes: Your guitar has a chrome humbucker pickup mounting ring and a creme switch tip. These should be black on the stock DK2. Your guitar has black locknut clamping pressure pads, black tuner buttons, and black tuner shafts. These should be chrome on the stock DK2.

          An Original Floyd Rose is a direct replacement for the JT580LP tremolo. It has been done sucessfully, with photographic evidence: http://audiozone.dk/index-filer/Trem...ct.htm#jt580lp. I am unaware if the Gotoh GE1996T will also be a direct replacement since I recall nobody here trying to replace a JT580LP with a GE1996T before. At a quick glance, the GE1996T's dimensions seem to be slightly different than the OFR, as seen in the diagrams below for comparison:

          OFR: http://www.warmoth.com/hardware/brid...se_Diagram.pdf

          GE1996T: https://g-gotoh.com/international/product/ge1996t.html
          Last edited by Number Of The Priest; 01-24-2018, 08:05 AM.

          Comment


          • Thanks Mr. Number of the Priest, you are a Jackson Beast!!
            Thanks for that extra info on the hardware too.
            I have read the MIJ are overall very good; I was concerned that the 2005 instead of the advertised 1997 put it in India or Korea or where ever, and of lower quality.

            Any other comments or consensus regarding pickups, hardware for overall quality, repairing or improving the JT580LP (has it ever been considered a decent trem and just wears out, or meh new out of the box)?
            I know these are considered a "PRO" series, but a step down from the USA models - how far is that step down?

            Basically I am unsure whether the overall build quality warrants $200+ for an OFR.
            Dont get me wrong I'm loving this guitar!!
            Thats almost as much as the most I've paid for a guitar to date, mostly less.
            The Gotoh is around $100 and gets good review everywhere I saw.

            AND - will the longer string lock screws clear the back of the route?

            Comment


            • Pretty clever changing the clamps and tuner pieces to black.
              I initially thought a 2006-'11 neck with black hardware was added until I went through the pictures.

              Slap a black tremolo, pickup ring and black knobs on it and it'll pass as all black hardware from across the room.
              96xxxxx, 97xxxxx and 98xxxxx serials oftentimes don't indicate '96, '97 and '98.

              Comment


              • No matter what the era, the "Pro Series" and "Professional Series" names have always been Jackson's highest quality level of imported Jackson guitars. However, there has been considerable variability in hardware offered through the years. So, the "step down" relative to American Jacksons will vary depending on the era. I'll try to break down the various eras below.

                Within the 1990-1995 Professional Series (identified by "Professional" in script on the headstock), there were Std, XL, and Pro variants. This Series comprised the very first Japanese Jacksons and their construction quality was extremely comparable to American Jacksons, and still used real MOP fretboard inlays (whether it be sharkfins or dots). You can read about them here: http://audiozone.dk/index-filer/jack...ries_1990-1995

                The Professional Series of the mid-to-late 1990s were still identifiable by "Professional" in script on the headstock, and the Japanese build quality remained high, but they received lesser specifications applied to the general line (MOTO inlays, rosewood fretboards more common, Duncan Designed pickups, JT580LP tremolos, etc.).

                The Pro Series of the 2000s (no more "Professional" in script on the headstock) were largely the same as the above paragraph. There was also an MG Series that was parallel in quality, also made in Japan, that offered designs centered around EMG products (passive EMG-HZ pickups paired with active EMG electronics).

                From 2006-2011 the Pro Series were upgraded with Seymour Duncan pickups and black hardware. In particular, the Pro Series SL3 Soloist and a few other, rarer Pro Series guitars actually received a tremolo upgrade, receiving a Thousand Series Floyd Rose. The MG Series received active EMG pickups but lost their active EMG electronics. Then in 2011 the Japanese factory closed.

                The guitars from the two above paragraphs are some of the best bang-for-the-buck Jackson guitars because they are so common, well-built, and affordable on the used market. A good ballpark figure is USD$300 although it's not difficult to find them cheaper than that.

                I don't know when the Indonesian and Mexican production started, but the Pro Series would be made in one of those two countries depending on the neck construction. Bolt-on Pro Series guitars are made by Fender in Mexico, while neck-thru Pro Series guitars are made by Cort in Indonesia.

                ----------------------------------

                You're right, the Gotoh is way more affordable than the OFR. If you get the Gotoh to replace your JT580LP, please document it with details and photos for us. You would be the first to do so and it would hugely benefit our community, as I cannot recall anyone trying this replacement before.

                Hmmm I can no longer get the images on the Gotoh website to load properly. I can't advise whether the string lock screws of the Gotoh would clear the back of the JT580LP route, but the OFR one does. If the Gotoh images load properly again it might be worth comparing the dimensions. If the Gotoh screws are too long, I know the screws found on the Schaller tremolo are shorter while the rest of the bridge is "identical" to an OFR. In this case, you might be able to create a "Frankenstein" bridge using the Schaller short screws on the Gotoh. If the screws are indeed compatible, and I have a hunch that they are, THAT hybrid bridge would for certain clear the back of the JT580LP route.

                -----------------------------------

                I consider the JT580LP a decent tremolo. They are made in Japan by Takeuchi and are fitted to mid-range Jacksons (as the JT580LP), mid-range Ibanez guitars (as the Lo-TRS), and mid-range ESP/LTD guitars (I don't know what they label theirs as). I've owned two guitars with these tremolos which were/are in perfect functional condition so they haven't ever given me any problems returning to pitch, but then again I haven't really abused my bridges, nor does my playing style incorporate much crazy pitch-shifting. However, I can see why an OFR or a Gotoh would be considered an upgrade.
                Last edited by Number Of The Priest; 01-24-2018, 10:45 AM.

                Comment


                • Thanks for the history lesson, I'm going to save this somewhere.

                  I am comparing the specs; the gotoh overall width is 91.5mm while the OFR is 90mm.
                  That may be a deal killer or a date with the bench grinder.

                  I ordered a tremolo stop for now. I was going to make one but for $11. shipped its not worth my time.
                  Kills me though to pay even that for something I can make!

                  I will inspect the posts and knife edges more carefully; maybe I'll heat it up, dress them with a file and heat / quench it again.

                  At this point I dont see springing for an OFR, BUT if this guitar grows on me enough, I might.
                  (springing > tremolo? Heh heh)

                  I bought it right, w/HSC and did local pickup so no shipping costs.

                  Comment


                  • You're welcome. I slightly revised my previous reply so that it flows better.

                    I'm speculating here, but it is possible that while the Gotoh is wider than the OFR, it might still work. The JT580LP route is larger than the equivalent route for an OFR. If you look at the image here http://audiozone.dk/index-filer/Trem...ct.htm#jt580lp you will see the OFR is practically swimming in the JT580LP route. There may be enough additional space for the Gotoh but don't quote me on that.

                    Ah, so you paid USD$300 with case. Congrats!

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Number Of The Priest View Post
                      You're welcome. I slightly revised my previous reply so that it flows better.

                      I'm speculating here, but it is possible that while the Gotoh is wider than the OFR, it might still work. The JT580LP route is larger than the equivalent route for an OFR. If you look at the image here http://audiozone.dk/index-filer/Trem...ct.htm#jt580lp you will see the OFR is practically swimming in the JT580LP route. There may be enough additional space for the Gotoh but don't quote me on that.

                      Ah, so you paid USD$300 with case. Congrats!
                      We may have a winner!
                      Thanks, and thanks for all the help and info.

                      Comment


                      • Hi
                        Can you tell me about this number: 304533

                        Comment


                        • If 304533 is a bolt on with a 'Professional' headstock logo it'd be 1993, Japan.

                          A pic would be helpful to tell if it's all original and what model it is.
                          96xxxxx, 97xxxxx and 98xxxxx serials oftentimes don't indicate '96, '97 and '98.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Mudlark View Post
                            If 304533 is a bolt on with a 'Professional' headstock logo it'd be 1993, Japan.

                            A pic would be helpful to tell if it's all original and what model it is.
                            I know that is Japan but Im wondered which year is exactly.
                            Link to photo:
                            https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lGC...ew?usp=sharing

                            Comment


                            • You didn't say you knew it was Japan, so I told you about the number.
                              It's '93 Dinky Reverse.
                              96xxxxx, 97xxxxx and 98xxxxx serials oftentimes don't indicate '96, '97 and '98.

                              Comment


                              • Thank you mate. It's graet to hear about exactly build year my Jacks !

                                Comment

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