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Originally posted by Mudlark View PostMIJ's are often priced off the charts because people compare them to the '90-'95 MIJ PRO's that came with near identical specs as the USA's of the day.
Plus, serial numbers ran from 9600000 to 9800000 during a 15 year run ('96-2011).
So, many people think they have one of those '90s models.
NOW, the MIJ line comes back this year with models upwards of $2500 USD!!!
People see dollar signs, but they're not being realistic, or properly informed.
I've got a 2011 MIJ DKMGT made a couple months before MIJ production stopped.
I'm gonna sell that when I retire for a fortune.
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Originally posted by CoyoteCody View Post
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MIJ's are often priced off the charts because people compare them to the '90-'95 MIJ PRO's that came with near identical specs as the USA's of the day.
Plus, serial numbers ran from 9600000 to 9800000 during a 15 year run ('96-2011).
So, many people think they have one of those '90s models.
NOW, the MIJ line comes back this year with models upwards of $2500 USD!!!
People see dollar signs, but they're not being realistic, or properly informed.
I've got a 2011 MIJ DKMGT made a couple months before MIJ production stopped.
I'm gonna sell that when I retire for a fortune.
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Originally posted by Mudlark View PostThat's a Japanese DXMGT from about 2003-4. Those were in the $4-500 new range back then if I'm not mistaken.
john.w.lawson , can't tell if you're being facetious or not haha.
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Originally posted by Mudlark View PostThat's a Japanese DXMGT from about 2003-4. Those were in the $4-500 new range back then if I'm not mistaken.
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That's a Japanese DXMGT from about 2003-4. Those were in the $4-500 new range back then if I'm not mistaken.
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I'm trying to identify what model I have and how much it may be worth before I sell it. I don't want to be one of "those" types of sellers, so I want to be sure before I post it. I previously thought it was a '97 model until I came across this thread. As far as I can tell, it looks to be a DX6 model from around 2003, but I couldn't find another example with the sharkfin inlays. Also, I would prefer to not have to remove the neck for further details as I don't want to ruin the current setup before I sell it. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Edit: I tried uploading photos but the site wouldn't let me, so I'll type in the specs instead:
Serial: 9733570
Color: Trans Red
Fretboard: Rosewood
Neck: Maple
Construction: Bolt-on
Frets: 24
Bridge: Tune-o-matic, string-through
Headstock: Standard (a.k.a. double-sided)
Inlays: MOP Sharkfin
Hardware: Black
Pickups: Humbuckers (passive)
Selector: 3-way
Knobs: Volume, tone
Body: belly and forearm contours
Other: binding on neck and headstock
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That sounds like a KVX10 from 2006. Those serials ran in sequence and hit 9800000 before '08.
They were MIJ and came with a TOM bridge on earlier models.
I have 977xxxx on my list of serials stamped mid-2006 in the neck pocket.
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Hello, all. I'm looking at a King V thats listed as a MIJ with 24 frets, a Jackson floyd, 1 toggle, 2 pots, and Duncan designed pickups. Serial is 9777365. Which looks like its a '97 or so.
Looking at the catalogues for 96-98 It sems to check out witht he specs except for the 24 frets. Did Jackson put 24 and 22 fret guitars into production but only have one in the catalogues? It looks in good condition and is up for a decent price if it checks out.
Any thoughts? Thanks.
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That's a 2020. First two digits indicate the year on most imports since circa 2012.
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I have a Jackson JS-34Q Dinky model with serial#CWJ200364. I was wondering what year it was made? Thanks for your help.
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Guest repliedThank you everybody for your help and pointers I really appreciate it, you guys are the best.
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Originally posted by Joyfantastic View PostWhy would the seller lie to me... that's rude.
It's not up to them to tell me about the particulars unless I specifically raise the topic. It's up to me to do my due diligence to cover my own ass as I inspect the item and decide if it's worth my time and money.
I don't care how ignorant, misinformed, or lying they are, because they are often some combination of all of them to various degrees. My prior research allows me to see if they are echoing incorrect information (forgivable to a degree) or are trying to intentionally deceive (in which case I will "fight back" by driving ar harder bargain, or reject the deal to avoid further engagement with an unscrupulous con artist).
Ironically, being the party with more information allows me to "play dumb" about the item and take advantage of seller mistakes. Not my fault if a seller lists a higher end guitar as something lower-end, or not my fault if a seller lists something several hundred dollars below its normal market value simply because they don't know anything about the item. I'll happily play along and pretend the item is the cheap junk it was listed as, while knowing it's worth far more.
The moral of the story: Always be more informed than the other party when it comes to transactions.
Based on the information shared with you in this thread alone, you're already ahead of the seller. It's up to you to decide if it's worth continuing to pursue this guitar and if the seller is uninformed or if he is intentionally deceiving you.
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