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Modifying neck profiles??

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  • Modifying neck profiles??

    Threads about neck thickness and profiles got me thinking. Has anyone here modified the profile or thickness of a neck and had any problems? The neck on my Kelly XL is real thin (fretboard to back of neck) and comfortable. The JDR-94 is even thinner. They both are kinda flattened on the back which I find really comfortable and playable. I'm looking at buying Len's Model 6 and refinishing and have read that they are thicker in the neck than other models (.100+" more than the JDR). I'm obviously going to see how I like it as is and it probably won't be an issue but if I'm refinishing it anyway, what would be the drawbacks/harm in removing .075" or so from the back of the neck?
    Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!

  • #2
    Back in the dark ages, neck profiles were hand-sanded and each one was just a little different, and you didn't do silly stuff like buy a new, thin neck because you didn't like the size of yours, you busted out the sandpaper and made it to your liking.

    I've seen problems from this. Many years ago I "scored" a Focus 1000 that some guy took a power sander to the neck, to make it thinner. He stopped right about the time he hit the truss rod (well a few passes later, it appeared, as about 1/2" of truss rod was showing.)

    So, the main drawback would be makign it too thin and hitting the truss rod. Stay away from power tools and 60-grit, this is a job for 180-grit sandpaper or higher. Go slow, use a caliper, measure often, etc.

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    • #3
      tools needed:

      digital caliper
      dremel tool with sanding drums
      rasps
      files
      80, 100, 150, 220, 320, 400 grit paper
      pen
      paper
      neck whose dimensions you want to replicate.

      step 1:

      measure the neck you want to replicate at frets 1,3,5,7,9,12,15,(stop when you get to the neck heel). write those measurements down.

      step 2:

      use the dremel tool with the drum sander to sand indentations (little ditches) into the thicker neck at the 1,3,5,7,9,12,15 (stop when you get to the neck heel) get those ditches to within about .03 of the measurements. go slow. write the final measurements on the ditches (for organization help). Here's what you're going for with the ditches:



      step 3:

      remove the remaining wood to the depths of those ditches. use a rasp, then files, then your sandpaper. go slow; it's really easy to take a lot of wood off with a rasp. blend the areas together and follow the existing neck backshape.

      step 4:

      finish sand and oil the neck.

      step 5:

      enjoy.
      Last edited by sully; 10-07-2009, 11:32 AM.
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      • #4
        my problem has always been how to make the necks thicker
        "There is nothing more fearful than imagination without taste" - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

        "To be stupid, selfish and have good health are three requirements for happiness, though if stupidity is lacking, all is lost" - Gustave Flaubert

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Endrik View Post
          my problem has always been how to make the necks thicker
          just strap a few layers of duct tape to the neck and you should be good. j/k


          i've sanded a few necks down by hand, but they never felt quite even(operator error i'm sure)

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          • #6
            :dunno:

            Sully's method is great and would provide very accurate results (if done correctly) but if you're just trying to soften a V into a C and thin it a bit, a sanding block with 220 has always worked just fine for me, and feels perfectly smooth.

            I would not sand anything bare-handed that was supposed to come out flat, if that's what you mean.

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            • #7
              not sure if you talkin to me MAJNH, but yeah i didnt do it bare handed. i cut a piece of hard foam to the profile i wanted then spray tacked the paper to the foam. i'm not familiar with sullys method, but i;ll check it out.

              edit- lol oh its right up there.

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              • #8
                Much better idea than sliding a dull machete down the back...
                I bought the M6 so I'll see what it feels like when I get it. That's mainly what I was wondering about, running a block up and down mainly to flatten and thin out a bit. Wasn't sure how accurate I could keep it by hand. Sully's idea seems like it'd keep everything accurate. I have a few other manufacturer guitars I may try out first. Great ideas, thanks!!
                Every man dies... Not every man really lives!!

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