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RR 24 set up/down a step

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  • RR 24 set up/down a step

    I have a RR24m and I want to tune it down a step, change to some heavier strings. I'm quite capable of the string change but I realize this will require tweaking the Floyd (because of the down tuning) and the truss rod. I need to learn this stuff my self. Do you think I would be in over my head? Would I need dffnt springs for the floyd of just adjustment of the current ones? Any help here would be appreciated, I'll owe you a brewsky.
    Let go, let Guitar

  • #2
    Since you're tuning down and moving to a heavier gauge, you might not need any adjustments at all.

    But if you do, it's not hard. You shouldn't need any extra springs, and the truss rod adjustment should be minimal if it's needed at all.

    Put on the new strings and tune them to the pitch you want them at. If the bridge is pulling up, tighten the springs to bring it back to level with the body. If it's pulled down into the cavity, loosen the springs to bring it back to level.

    I would then let the guitar sit for a couple of hours before checking the truss rod. It takes a while for the wood to adjust. If it needs adjusting, then post a reply here and one of us will give you instructions.
    Scott

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    • #3
      One thing to watch when you go to heavier strings (11's on up with a 52 bottom) with a floyd is the hex bolts on the locking nut may not be long enough to clamp properly and will strip out. The bad part is its not the screws that strip its the locking nut itself that strips and is a huge pain in the butt to re-thread.
      While you have the strings off make sure the locking nut is still secure to the neck by snugging the bolts or screws that hold it on.
      It may take a few tweaks to get the relief set since as stated before the neck needs to get used to the new tension.

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      • #4
        its going to take you a while once you get the strings streached out to level the Trem so it sits parallel to the body. just be patient, and make sure you're all stretched out good before you start adjusting the Trem.
        Widow - "We have songs"

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        • #5
          Thanks guys, appreciated. I think itll sound kick ass down a step with some heavier strings. Hows this for an idea...ill restring the 24M, let the neck get used to it while I'm at the Lamb of God/Chldn Bodom show!! It's tonight here in Houston and I can't wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks again, you guys are great.
          Let go, let Guitar

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          • #6
            I use 10-52's on my RR1 tuned down a step..only minor adjustments were needed to the Floyd, none to the truss rod.

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            • #7
              The "secret" to adjusting a Floyd is that you don't tune the strings all the way and then try to fix the bridge angle.

              This applies to both size changes and simply retuning with the same size.


              Once you put the new size on and tune them up, as Spiv said, you probably won't need to adjust the Floyd at all because the thicker strings will have almost the same tension at a lower tuning that the thinner strings had at the higher tuning (hence the reason for going up a size when you go down a step).

              Put on the the new strings on and tune them where you want them. If the bridge baseplate is angled upwards and not even with the surface of the body, don't go cranking on the screws of the spring claw just yet.

              Detune the strings until the bridge is level (so you can see how far down you have to go), then retune back up half as far as you detuned.
              Say you went from D to B to get the trem flat. Tune them back up to C, then tighten the screws to get back up to D.

              Leave the nut unlocked until you get the strings stretched.
              Once they're done, lock the nut and bend all the strings at the 12th and/or 13th frets (longest range), then see if they hold tuning.


              Since there's a minimal change in the string tension, you also probably won't have to adjust the truss rod.

              But if you do have to, it'll be to loosen it, not tighten it. Once you put the tool in the truss rod nut, the tool will be pointing either straight ahead perpendicular to the neck or off to one side, like towards your left shoulder.

              If it's pointing straight ahead (or almost straight ahead, just barely on either side of center), turn it from the 6th string to the 1st string until the tool touches the 3rd string, then take it out. If it's pointing at your left shoulder and/or touching the 4th string, turn it until it's facing straight out the center (maybe a hair more, but certainly not to the 3rd string).

              Let it sit for a couple of days and check it again. Remember, the only time that neck wood moves quickly is either when it's cheap or when it breaks.

              In the rare event that the tool will only go in so that it's pointing to your right shoulder (because of the 4th string, mostly), put it in that way and move it just enough to get it in by the 4th string, then adjust it towards the middle of the nut.
              I want to depart this world the same way I arrived; screaming and covered in someone else's blood

              The most human thing we can do is comfort the afflicted and afflict the comfortable.

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              • #8
                when all that's said and done don't forget to intonate

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                • #9
                  Sorry to post so late, but it worked out just fine. Had to tweak the FR just a tad, left the truss alone. Dam, that sucker just sounds ferocious. Went w-E Ball 10-52's down a step and it kicks ass!!! Thanks for the help.
                  Let go, let Guitar

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