My neck hurts

[fett]

This started out as mild separation at the top of the neck of my black Model 1. I tried glueing it but I was not satisfied with the result. Now, look what I did. I have to buy more clamps. The truss rod is going to be interesting to deal with. It's all rusty. The upside is you get to see the internals. The downside is this sucks.

[Norton]

Buy a new truss rod ,off StewMac.

[fett]

What? Are you nuts?:ROTF: I'll make that sucker as good as new. It did bow way up when I popped the board. I guess I'll slack it way off when I attach the board. I have never done this before. HELP!!!!!

[Norton]

What? Are you nuts?:ROTF: I'll make that sucker as good as new.

Yeah, right.

[fett]

I have nothing to lose. What fun is a 20 year old guitar if you can't FIX it?

[Cygnus X1]

Let me get this straight....
So to speak.
Was there tension on the truss when you removed the fingerboard?
Take the truss rod out, use oil and sandpaper to clean it, make sure it is
loose when you reinstall it. Clean it throroughly (I use 92% Isopropyl alchohol
and naptha), then put it back in.
Clamping: I lightly support it in a bench vise, then clamp it with a board
over the finger board, and use as many clamps as I can fit. I can see how it's being clamped by the glue that's being squeezed out. (I use Titebond). Leave it alone for as long as you like. Two days minimum, for me. Put it together, string it up, and do the truss adjustments after a week.

[fett]

There was nothing more than a 2 inch separation of the board from the neck at the top. I removed the truss cover and the nut. I glued and clamped it and left it overnight. I didn't like how it set. So I unglued it 3 inches down. Then I reglued it using two clamps. But one clamp broke. Then I got pissed.:ROTF: There was so much of my glue that didn't set right that it made a build up. So, being fett, I just popped the board off. Now, I can fix it. And the truss rod on a Model 1 is more like a thin band than a rod. So, if nothing else you get to see the guts.

[dg]

And the truss rod on a Model 1 is more like a thin band than a rod. So, if nothing else you get to see the guts.

Actually, it should have 2 parts: one round & one flat, with the flat part up against the bottom of the fretboard.

http://audiozone.dk/cm/displayimage....279&fullsize=1

[fett]

Here's a pic. It's like a spring.

[straycat]

Back the nut out on the truss rod until its straight then clean it like Ciggy said and put it back in it should be fine.

[Cygnus X1]

Also, actually a couple of things...
1: After you clean it properly and get ready to glue it, wipe vaseline over the top tof the rod so you don't glue the rod to the fingerboard. It needs to be able to slide.

2: After gluing and assembly, fully expect to have to re-radius the fretboard and level the frets. If you did everything perfectly, you won't have to pull frets. Most times, though, I have to pull at least a few to get things back straight on the fingerboard.
I've gotten lucky a couple of times, but usually the whole reason I pull the fingerboard in the first place is to repair a broken truss, or a serious neck problem, and have to relevel and redress frets to go along with it.

[straycat]

+1 Ciggy

[fett]

It does have two parts.:ROTF: The frets are fairly worn so I may replace the board. See how a little project turns into a major deal?

[dg]

I have a question about gluing the fretboard. Do you need to take any extra precautions (besides vaseline on the rod) to keep too much excess glue from dripping into the channel? I was thinking big glue drips in there might cause a mechanical blockage to mess with the action of the rod.

[straycat]

Why replace the board just glue it back down let dry, pull the frets and install new frets.