Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Got creative tonight and built this...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Got creative tonight and built this...

    I got sick and tired of having guitar bodys stacked ontop of each other and what not. They were getting scratched and dinged, and Im sick of it. So after a bit of thought, and $50 worth of supplies, I built this! Each bay is 2.5" high by 15.75" wide by 25.75" deep. It will fit ANY body I have... dinky, rhoads, warrior, star, kelly, even a king v... you name it, it fits!



    Tomorrow its getting covered in black formica and 3/4" edge moulding so there wont be any sharp edges. Its coming out pretty good! Sumbitch is HEAVY though! Its entirely 3/4" MDF... probably weighs close to 100lbs! But thats a good thing, the kids cant knock it over, and its strong enough to survive a nuclear war!
    Last edited by RobRR; 01-13-2008, 09:54 PM.
    Imagine, being able to be magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi... Im in... Delaware...


  • #2
    Wow, that is really cool. I've been wanting to build a display/storage case for my guitars. I figured I would use 3/4" Oak-veneered plywood, and then use that iron-on veneer for the edges (I'm no carpenter, as you may have guessed). I have a 5-guitar rack, and I thought I would basically just build a box to put that in, with glass doors on the front to get the guitars in and out.

    I've built several small projects around the house but have always used plywood. I thought MDF wouldn't hold screws very well, or would bend under its own weight, like the "furniture" I had in college used to do. What is MDF like to work with? Does it hold screws well?

    Comment


    • #3
      MDF is GREAT to build with! As long as its designed and built right, itll last as long as anything else. One thing, MDF doesent like to get wet. Hence the need to prime/paint (spray or brush on latex, your choice) or formica it.

      -MDF cuts very nice and easy with just about any saw. Minimum tearout.
      -3/4 MDF is strong... not as strong as plywood, but its also half the price (im talking REAL plywood, not OSB crap).
      -MDF holds screws just fine! Use 1-5/8" coarse thread drywall screws, make sure to pre-drill and countersink each hole so the screw is flush or better with the surface.
      -I also use a bit of wood glue on the major joints just for piece of mind.

      Its really good stuff to work with. The reason store bought shit always falls apart is because of the shitty fastening systems they use. Though on pre-finished panels, theres not much of a choice.

      The box I built is obviously overkill for what Im using it for, but none the less Id put 500lbs ontop of it without thinking twice about it .
      Imagine, being able to be magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi... Im in... Delaware...

      Comment


      • #4
        Cool. Thanks. I do have a problem with tearout on my plywood cuts. I will have to try some MDF in the future.

        Comment


        • #5
          If youre having problem with tearout, then you need to use a blade with more teeth. The more the teeth, the smoother the cut... but the more teeth, the more $$$ too.
          Imagine, being able to be magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi... Im in... Delaware...

          Comment


          • #6
            Also try using a tighter clearance blade guard. At least on a table saw. If you're using a circular saw, fasten a piece of mdf to it. Then plunge cut through the mdf with the saw. You'll have a nice tight fitting slot that will help reduce tear out as well.

            Comment


            • #7
              Throw a cloth over it and use it as a table.
              Maybe line each shelf with baize or felt to protect even more, you could put painted bodies in there as well then.

              Comment


              • #8
                Blade guard? On a table saw? Whats that?

                As for making cuts that are too large to be done with the table saw, I make what I call the "poor mans table saw"... this involves fastening a plastic 4' level to the board to follow with the circular saw. Make sure to measure the distance from the blade to the edge of the flat guard and thats how far you put the level from your cut line.

                As for covering it in formica... NOT happening. That shit is $45 a sheet! Ill just fill all the holes, prime and paint it. Rout out some small bevels on the edges to make it look nice, and call it a day.
                Imagine, being able to be magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi... Im in... Delaware...

                Comment

                Working...
                X