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Painted headstock w/ decal

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  • Painted headstock w/ decal

    If you are going to spec out a neck to be built, and the headstock is going to be painted and clear coated, is it better to have the decal put on under the clear cloat? Does it really matter? What does Charvel typically do in this regard?
    _________________________________________________
    "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
    - Ken M

  • #2
    Under the clear... it will be better protected.
    -Rick

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    • #3
      Originally posted by rjohnstone View Post
      Under the clear... it will be better protected.
      Yeah, that's what I thought...but....if I had Musikraft or Warmoth or somebody like that build and finish the neck, I'm sure they would groan about putting a Fender/Jackson/Charvel decal on under the clear, even if I sent them the decal.
      _________________________________________________
      "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
      - Ken M

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Axewielder View Post
        Yeah, that's what I thought...but....if I had Musikraft or Warmoth or somebody like that build and finish the neck, I'm sure they would groan about putting a Fender/Jackson/Charvel decal on under the clear, even if I sent them the decal.

        just do it yourself, its not hard. just need to read up on the task at hand and you'll be fine.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 69dodgecharger View Post
          just do it yourself, its not hard. just need to read up on the task at hand and you'll be fine.
          +1

          Current Charvels are silk screened on. Older models had clearcoat over the decal and most Pre-Pro's had no clearcoat (similar to old Fenders).
          Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 69dodgecharger View Post
            just do it yourself, its not hard. just need to read up on the task at hand and you'll be fine.
            Yeah, I'm sure I could slap it on over the clear myself. It's working out the logistics with a vendor for getting it under the clear that's the hard part.
            _________________________________________________
            "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
            - Ken M

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            • #7
              Just have them leave the face of the headstock unfinished.
              When you get it, apply the decal then take it to your local auto body shop and have them shoot some clear on the headstock the next time they have to shoot clear on a body. One coat will be fine.

              Just make sure you tape it up and mask it off before you hand it over.
              -Rick

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              • #8
                Originally posted by rjohnstone View Post
                Just have them leave the face of the headstock unfinished.
                When you get it, apply the decal then take it to your local auto body shop and have them shoot some clear on the headstock the next time they have to shoot clear on a body. One coat will be fine.

                Just make sure you tape it up and mask it off before you hand it over.
                Cool thanks, that sounds doable.
                _________________________________________________
                "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
                - Ken M

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                • #9
                  personal preference and all, but i always shoot a layer of clear on the headstock first, sand it flat, then logo it, then clear again. dunno why i do that, but it always seemed like a good idea to me. headstocks are a breeze, you can probably do it yourself.

                  sully
                  Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by rjohnstone View Post
                    Just have them leave the face of the headstock unfinished.
                    When you get it, apply the decal then take it to your local auto body shop and have them shoot some clear on the headstock the next time they have to shoot clear on a body. One coat will be fine.

                    Just make sure you tape it up and mask it off before you hand it over.
                    Good idea, but the wood should be sealed with a clear coat and leveled to a flat clear finish as a minimum. If it's painted opaque, it also needs to leveled. It's mandatory for a waterslide and highly advisable for a rub on transfer. Also, when the clear is applied over the decal, the clear paint material should be compatible with the paint beneath the decal. In other words, don't clear over Nitro clear with a clear urethane.
                    Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by sully View Post
                      headstocks are a breeze, you can probably do it yourself.
                      Maybe, but I'm not really set up to do anything more sophisticated than hit it with a rattle-can.
                      _________________________________________________
                      "Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
                      - Ken M

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                      • #12
                        :ROTF: Sully beat me to it. The clear over the wood seals the wood from the decal. If it's a waterslide, obviously the water while appling the decal will raise the wood grain and you will have a mess including bubbles. If it's a dry transfer, the wood is perfectly leveled with the the decal with on a clear sealer or paint. The sealed wood gives better adhesion for the transfer.
                        Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Axewielder View Post
                          Maybe, but I'm not really set up to do anything more sophisticated than hit it with a rattle-can.
                          If you don't mind the long cure time, you can use Deft clear lacquer (Nitro based) from Home Depot, Lowes etc. It dries pretty fast, but as you build the surface over a decal it will get thicker. A 2 week wait is suggested before leveling and buffing out the clear. As applied, the Deft looks pretty good by itself.
                          Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Bengal65 View Post
                            :ROTF: Sully beat me to it. The clear over the wood seals the wood from the decal. If it's a waterslide, obviously the water while appling the decal will raise the wood grain and you will have a mess including bubbles. If it's a dry transfer, the wood is perfectly leveled with the the decal with on a clear sealer or paint. The sealed wood gives better adhesion for the transfer.
                            man, i KNEW that you'd be able to give the rationale!

                            i have to say that i got really good results on mayday's mayniax (a warmoth variax) with spray lacquer. all reports have been that it's holding up over time. and really, if you just need to clear the face of a headstock, you can get by with a decent spray lacquer.

                            sully
                            Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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                            • #15
                              oh. one other thing. if you want a satin finish, (if you're just putting the logo on the headstock without wanting to paint it) get yourself a few cans of krylon's satin clear #1313. someone who will remain nameless shared with me that that's what jackson used on satin finish touchups (usually on warranty work or the imports). it's REALLY effin easy; a few medium coats on the face of the headstock, apply the logo, then shoot 4 or so medium coats over it. i've used it on my natural logoed headstocks and it's a freekin' breeze; no sanding, no buffing, just shoot it even and you're allllll good.

                              sully
                              Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
                              Sully Guitars on Facebook
                              Sully Guitars on Google+
                              Sully Guitars on Tumblr

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