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  • Filling Wood

    What is the best way to fill large amounts of wood? I need to know as I plan on redoing my Tele project and need to fill out 2 humbucker routes and a control route. Also, whats the best way to get it flat and smooth?

  • #2
    Well, there is Bondo. But if I were me, I would use blocks of the same wood the body is made of and align (sp) the grain. Then I would make the blocks a wee tad smaller so the glue can set. But the height of the blocks must be higher than the body. Then, I would glue the blocks in and let it cure for I don't know how long. The new and old wood have to get along.:ROTF: That's what I wood do. \\rain
    I am a true ass set to this board.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by fett View Post
      Well, there is Bondo. But if I were me, I would use blocks of the same wood the body is made of and align (sp) the grain. Then I would make the blocks a wee tad smaller so the glue can set. But the height of the blocks must be higher than the body. Then, I would glue the blocks in and let it cure for I don't know how long. The new and old wood have to get along.:ROTF: That's what I wood do. \\rain
      I was thinking that. There is a shop just up the road that sells all sorts of hardwoods. If I didn't think I would screw it up, I would buy a top from them (FYI, they supply PRS, Gibson, and supposedly FMIC with figured tops.)

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      • #4
        I'm feeling wood, right now.......................oh...................... ...nevermind.....



















        I'm not Ron!

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        • #5
          If you really want it to look good and not have the filled routes show back up, there are a couple ways to go. One is the traditional wood fill, followed by a wood veneer. The other is to use Bondo, then do a thin layer of 2-part polyester glazing putty (Evercoat) over the top, then sand, prime & paint. This is the method Mark (mm2002) uses, and the results he gets are awesome, like Budman's pink Model 6 & the crazy Rhoads project he did in the famous "Fun with Bondo" thread. Unfortunately, none of the pics are working in any of the old threads I checked.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by dg View Post
            If you really want it to look good and not have the filled routes show back up, there are a couple ways to go. One is the traditional wood fill, followed by a wood veneer. The other is to use Bondo, then do a thin layer of 2-part polyester glazing putty (Evercoat) over the top, then sand, prime & paint. This is the method Mark (mm2002) uses, and the results he gets are awesome, like Budman's pink Model 6 & the crazy Rhoads project he did in the famous "Fun with Bondo" thread. Unfortunately, none of the pics are working in any of the old threads I checked.
            Thanks. while I guess he'll have to answer, did he do this on the metallic pink Ibanez 7 string he did a little while ago? I think it came out NICE! (I'm doing a red metal flake myself)

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            • #7
              I need to bump this for something extremely important:

              When I go to route the controls, I think I may have to route a bit of the filler in cavity. I am very nervous that the wood filler won't hold once 90% of whats behind it is taken out, and thus it falls out. Is there anyway to be sure that I won't run into this, besides routing my controls around it?

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              • #8
                hand full of nails and a big hammer should do the trick :P

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by CharvelRocker View Post
                  I need to bump this for something extremely important:

                  When I go to route the controls, I think I may have to route a bit of the filler in cavity. I am very nervous that the wood filler won't hold once 90% of whats behind it is taken out, and thus it falls out. Is there anyway to be sure that I won't run into this, besides routing my controls around it?
                  If you're going to be routing in a previously filled area, you should glue in a wood filler piece.
                  Bondo is great as long as it has something to hold onto, but if you're taking away 90% of it's adhesion area, it will fall out.

                  A glued in wood piece will bond better with the sides of the filled pocket.
                  -Rick

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                  • #10
                    While were on this topic... any good methods to make the wood "plug" match the cavity youre filling? Any tips or tricks?
                    Imagine, being able to be magically whisked away to... Delaware. Hi... Im in... Delaware...

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by rjohnstone View Post
                      If you're going to be routing in a previously filled area, you should glue in a wood filler piece.
                      Bondo is great as long as it has something to hold onto, but if you're taking away 90% of it's adhesion area, it will fall out.

                      A glued in wood piece will bond better with the sides of the filled pocket.
                      Thanks. Glad I only filled that route 2/3rds of the way just in case.

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                      • #12
                        Bondo as in the fiberglass resin? Yeah, that works great. If you're a tone purist, you might do like fett said and glue a piece of wood about the same shape, maybe a bit smaller, then fill up the rest with fiberglass resin. Though i've done mods/repairs on several guitars using only fiberglass and they sounded fine.
                        "It wasn't the world being round that agitated people, but that the world wasn't flat. [ ... ]
                        The truth will seem utterly preposterous, and its speaker, a raving lunatic."

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