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Nitrocellulose vs polyester

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  • Nitrocellulose vs polyester

    Hi guys. A quick question for anybody who has refinished a guitar...

    Would it be better to use nitrocellulose aerosol cans for the clear coat? or to send it off for polyester spraying?

    I know someone who polyester sprays japanese yamaha pianos, is this the same stuff / procedure?

  • #2
    What kind of paint was used for the color? If it was done with spray cans, you'd better match the clear to what's on there or you'll have a mess on your hands.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by dg View Post
      What kind of paint was used for the color? If it was done with spray cans, you'd better match the clear to what's on there or you'll have a mess on your hands.
      True if you're going to spray nitro on it, but poly will go over damned near anything. Also, poly is way more durable, and looks better over the long haul.
      My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.

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      • #4
        It's just a solid colour enamel aerosol can. How much would a poly finish cost?

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        • #5
          Also, if poly goes over newly applied Nitro you can have problems. The Nitro degasses for years. So, what you end up with are tiny bubbles under the poly clear coat.

          If it's going to be Nitro over poly, be prepared to wait a couple months or more before wet sanding (leveling) and buffing.
          Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Bengal65 View Post
            Also, if poly goes over newly applied Nitro you can have problems. The Nitro degasses for years. So, what you end up with are tiny bubbles under the poly clear coat.

            If it's going to be Nitro over poly, be prepared to wait a couple months or more before wet sanding (leveling) and buffing.
            Good to know.
            Not that I would ever try that, but good to know.

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            • #7
              Don't use duplicolor acrylic (worthless shit) over anything - you'll be able to scratch it off with your fingernails even 5 years after.

              I've heard of good result with enamel based spray cans, tho.
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              • #8
                Originally posted by Bengal65 View Post
                Also, if poly goes over newly applied Nitro you can have problems. The Nitro degasses for years. So, what you end up with are tiny bubbles under the poly clear coat.

                If it's going to be Nitro over poly, be prepared to wait a couple months or more before wet sanding (leveling) and buffing.
                Good point! I should have clarified my statement "poly will go over damned near anything"....if it's completely cured.
                Of course, I would never spray nitro lacquer on anything in the first place!
                My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.

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                • #9
                  Hi alfredpotter,
                  I formaly refinished wood and used both finishes in the past.
                  Nitro is very soft compaired to polyester. Just look at vintage Fender strats. Polyester is a harder and thicker finish and sprays in two steps. Look at 80's and newer guitars as most of these are Polyester. Nitro tends to flake and check and dent over time. Polyester will take a hard hit and will somtimes chip or dent. I found out about Polyester from one of Warmoth guy's (I think it was Paul) at NAMM when I used to go back in the day. Polyester is more easy to fix if you sand threw the finish and more easy to remove surface scratchs. If the pricing is the same Nitro is very cheap when compaired to Polyester and Polyester must be sprayed from a gun.
                  Hope this helps.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bengal65 View Post
                    Also, if poly goes over newly applied Nitro you can have problems. The Nitro degasses for years. So, what you end up with are tiny bubbles under the poly clear coat.

                    If it's going to be Nitro over poly, be prepared to wait a couple months or more before wet sanding (leveling) and buffing.
                    I heard Gibson was doing poly over Nitro on some late model guitars to cut down the amount of time it takes to cure. Anyone know if that is true?
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                    • #11
                      oy. you used enamel? best to strip it, use lacquer (if you have to use cans), or just send it out for a pro refin.
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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by sully View Post
                        oy. you used enamel? best to strip it, use lacquer (if you have to use cans), or just send it out for a pro refin.
                        +1

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                        • #13
                          Strip it and start over with real paint, or let a pro do it.
                          If your hellbent on sticking with the Enamel, use a spray can Aerosol Enamel Clearcoat like Krylon Clear Gloss, and wetsand between coats after fully dry. final coat wetsand to 2000 grit then polish with a wool pad on a drill with 3M polish and lastly buff with sponge pad on drill with wax.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Axewielder View Post
                            I heard Gibson was doing poly over Nitro on some late model guitars to cut down the amount of time it takes to cure. Anyone know if that is true?
                            Urethane paints will not generally adhere to nitro finishes unless you use a barrier coat to create adhesion. Basecoats are generally the rule when using polyurethane. There are a couple barrier coatings you can use such as Dupont 222S or Sikkens basefix between laquer and urethane clear. This will provide a foundation that a urethane clear can adhere to. both products are transparent and will not shift color.

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