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  • Floyd Secrets

    I was wondering if anybody wanted trade a few Floyd secrets. This old dog can still learn a few new tricks. Anything that can make my life easier, I am game for.
    When I restring a guitar I take my time. I think I can do string changes fairly quickly and don’t really think much of it. I hear everybody complaining about how difficult they are. But it is like second nature to me, maybe because I have been using for so long. I know my Floyds stay tuned better than most hardtail guitar.
    When I tune a guitar after a string change I start with the low E and work my way down to the high E. I do this a few time till it starts getting really close. Then I start low E to high E and back up to the low E. Once it is right on I lock it down. Next I check all the string and start fine tuning from ones that are out of tune the most, (sometimes one string can be way out after locking the nut) then the regular low to high E thing.
    If I have to setup a Floyd, spring tension, and intonation I think it is worth the time to set it up right. In the long run you will have tremolo system that won’t let you down.
    Scott
    Just one more guitar!

  • #2
    Mostly I agree with you. I have slightly different technique. While I dislike changing floyds due to the time involved as apposed to a hard tail. I do enjoy bending and pulling to infinity and beyond. For a floyd it takes me the better part of 30 min. from start to finish to get one so it is the cats ass.
    "when people say metal, they dont think bling bling they think stainless steel kitchen knife"
    I just made that quote..

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    • #3
      After you do it enough times you can figure out just how sharp to tune each string so that when all 6 are done everything is pretty much at the desired pitch instead of going through all 6 several times.

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      • #4
        I thought we were talking about this guy...

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        • #5
          I just remove all the strings at once, put them all on the bridge at once then one at a time to the tuners. I tune up by ear to E or Eb and then stretch the shit out of the strings, re-tune, play some more, bend some more then break out the tuner. Once in tune I bend a bit more before locking down the nut.

          Also its good idea to make sure you have the fine tuners set so you have adquate fine tuning ability either sharp or flat. All of my guitars have floyds and once I lock the nut..it stays in tune until the next string change
          shawnlutz.com

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          • #6
            After a restring, I give em a stretch and a basic tune. Then it sits for a day - then tune.

            For the first couple of tuning passes, I tune a few cents high to compensate for the bridge shift. Helps keep the fine tuners in a neutral position and cuts down on tuning time. My 750xl stays in tune for months...
            750xl, 88LE, AT1, Roswell Pro, SG-X, 4 others...
            Stilletto Duece 1/2 Stack, MkIII Mini-Stack, J-Station, 12 spaces of misc rack stuff, Sonar 4, Event 20/20, misc outboard stuff...

            Why do I still want MORE?

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            • #7
              What do you use to keep the floyd from resting on the wood in the cavity once you take all the strings off? I've tried business cards and stacks of sticky notes, but that always ends up having all the tension resting on the itonation screws. Maybe that is okay, but it seems to be a bad idea.

              P.S. I like to take all the strings off at once so I can clean the fretboard really nice.

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              • #8
                When I'm cleaning all of the strings I usually stuff a cloth under the bridge to keep it from hitting the body. Works well most of the time.
                I would recommend anybody using a floyd to loosen all the strings and lift the bridge out of the body and have a look at the way it all fits together. I did and it makes it way easier to understand everything people talk about with these bridges.

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                • #9
                  I've got this little "clamp like thing" that I got off of ebay 2 years ago that
                  clamps on to the trem arm and holds the bridge in place so when you take
                  the strings off the trem doesn't move.
                  Makes changing strings on a recessed floyd a piece of cake.
                  I'll see if I can find a link for you.
                  If this is our perdition, will you walk with me?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by SouthPlatteDemon View Post
                    What do you use to keep the floyd from resting on the wood in the cavity once you take all the strings off? I've tried business cards and stacks of sticky notes, but that always ends up having all the tension resting on the itonation screws. Maybe that is okay, but it seems to be a bad idea.

                    P.S. I like to take all the strings off at once so I can clean the fretboard really nice.
                    I use a rubber door stop.
                    750xl, 88LE, AT1, Roswell Pro, SG-X, 4 others...
                    Stilletto Duece 1/2 Stack, MkIII Mini-Stack, J-Station, 12 spaces of misc rack stuff, Sonar 4, Event 20/20, misc outboard stuff...

                    Why do I still want MORE?

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                    • #11
                      You can put an eraser or folded cardboard in the trem cavity between the body and the sustain block. It's the same area you would use to block the trem for dive only, of course you would want use something more permanent like a fixed piece of wood for that. Maybe the picture will help explain where I'm talking about.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by SouthPlatteDemon View Post
                        What do you use to keep the floyd from resting on the wood in the cavity once you take all the strings off? I've tried business cards and stacks of sticky notes, but that always ends up having all the tension resting on the itonation screws. Maybe that is okay, but it seems to be a bad idea.

                        P.S. I like to take all the strings off at once so I can clean the fretboard really nice.
                        I use a 9v battery wrapped in electric tape.
                        Just one more guitar!

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                        • #13
                          9V battery or cigarette lighter (remember those??) in cloth (an old sock) or tape work...

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                          • #14
                            I change one string at a time (remove old, put new string in its place).
                            I use the same gauge each time.
                            When cleaning frets and the fretboard,
                            I use/put a tire gauge thingy wrapped in duct tape behind or underneath the floyd to hold it up level with body, remove strings from the floyd and proceed to clean. Its easier this way for me, because removing the springs are always a huge hassle to get off and back in isn't any easier either.
                            I can't tell you why I struggle with the springs but I do.
                            Peace, Love and Happieness and all that stuff...

                            "Anyone who tries to fling crap my way better have a really good crap flinger."

                            I personally do not care how it was built as long as it is a good playing/sounding instrument.

                            Yes, there's a bee in the pudding.

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                            • #15
                              no way, dude.

                              i struggled with the springs too.

                              my first ever guitar had a floyd copy...i spent hours messing with the floyd and hating it years ago.

                              but now, i dig them just fine!

                              great secrets, guys!

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