Question about string gauges

[Brad]

I am in the process of changing my Model 6 from .09's to .10's and was wondering what I need to do with the JT-6 as far as action adjustment. (if anything) I have always played with .09's and it has always been set up that way. Any help would be useful.

Brad [img]graemlins/scratchhead.gif[/img]

[LesPaulCustom]

Re: Question about string gauges

If anything, loosen the springs a little bit to compensate for the increased tension.

The intonation shouldn't be effected.

Re: Question about string gauges

you just have to adjust the spring tension and the bridge height just a little and you'll have to tweak your truss rod some.it'll add a little time to your normal string changing time.nothing to hard

[Brad]

Re: Question about string gauges

Thanks Guys.... Appreciate the help!

Brad

[zeegler]

Re: Question about string gauges

Originally posted by LesPaulCustom:
If anything, loosen the springs a little bit to compensate for the increased tension.

The intonation shouldn't be effected.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Um, actually, I believe it's the opposite. Since you're putting on heavier gauge strings, you will have to increase the tension on the trem springs to balance the increased tension of the heavier strings.

Tightening the trem claw screws 1 or 2 turns each should do it.

[zeegler]

Re: Question about string gauges

Oh, and you shouldn't have to adjust your truss rod, trem height, or intonation unless you're making a radical change in your string gauge. The lower string gauge is more important, since these strings put more stress on the neck. EG: if you're changing from 9-42s to 10-56s, then you might have some adjusting to do, but going from 9-42s to 10-48s, you could probably get away with.

Re: Question about string gauges

I always check and adjust if needed when i go from 9's to 10's on a guitar.

zeegler
Member # 533 posted January 20, 2004 01:55 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oh, and you shouldn't have to adjust your truss rod, trem height, or intonation unless you're making a radical change in your string gauge. The lower string gauge is more important, since these strings put more stress on the neck. EG: if you're changing from 9-42s to 10-56s, then you might have some adjusting to do, but going from 9-42s to 10-48s, you could probably get away with.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">more importantly "if you're changing from 9-42s to 10-56s, then you might have some adjusting to do" Which he is doing .
but anyway like i said before you might have to do those adjustments to your guitar after you change string gauges.but more then likly you wont have to providing that the guitar was setup properly in the first place.

[jgcable]

Re: Question about string gauges

Put the 10's on and tune her up. The new 10's will pull the bridge forward. Open up the back and tighten the 2 trem spring claw screws 1 turn each. Your guitar should now be sharp. Retune and repeat the above procedure until the trem is parallel to the body. It will take 3 or 4 tries until you get the proper balance of string pressure and spring pressure.

[zeegler]

Re: Question about string gauges

Originally posted by jem777LNG:
more importantly "if you're changing from 9-42s to 10-56s, then you might have some adjusting to do" Which he is doing .

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Mmm, sorry I didn't see anything in his post about what gauge low E he was using. [img]graemlins/scratchhead.gif[/img]

[Black Mariah]

Re: Question about string gauges

http://www.jcfonline.com/ubb/noncgi/...c;f=7;t=000757

[Immortal]

Re: Question about string gauges

I'll post my question here.

I've switched my strings from 46 factory gauges to 52. First it was tuned on E, now with heavier strings on D. I didn't notice any warps of the neck so I don't need to adjust the truss rod? If not so, then I should loosen it because of heavier strings I've put on, right?

Re: Question about string gauges

Originally posted by zeegler:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jem777LNG:
more importantly "if you're changing from 9-42s to 10-56s, then you might have some adjusting to do" Which he is doing .

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Mmm, sorry I didn't see anything in his post about what gauge low E he was using. [img]graemlins/scratchhead.gif[/img] </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Most sets of 9's are a standard 9-42 are they not

[zeegler]

Re: Question about string gauges

Originally posted by jem777LNG:
Most sets of 9's are a standard 9-42 are they not

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Regular "LIGHT" gauge strings are 9-42, so yes, they are pretty common, but usually moving up to 10s will mean up to "REGULAR" gauge which are 10-46. Not much of a difference. I just used 10-56 as an example. I don't think any standard set of strings goes 10-56, but some players use their own mix & match sets. Even "LIGHT TOP - HEAVY BOTTOM" are only 10-52. (That's what I use)

Actually I alternate between 9-46s, which I use for E and drop D tuning, and 10-52s, which I use for Eb and drop Db.

[mm2002]

Re: Question about string gauges

Zeeg, you just confused the hell outa me!! [img]graemlins/toast.gif[/img]

[Black Mariah]

Re: Question about string gauges

Immortal: Unless you have buzzing issues, the truss rod is fine. Read that article I liked to earlier.