string trees/holders

[1trussell]

Why do some strats have two string holders, some have one, and other guitars like Ibanez have an entire string tree to keep the strings down? I understand the point of a tree to keep all strings at a greater angle, but just 2 or 4 strings? What's up with that?

[toejam]

I know old Fenders used two trees to help with the downward pressure for the angle of the E, B, G and D strings behind the nut. They switched to only one for the E and B strings since they started using staggered machine head posts (the low E and A now have taller posts, the other strings had lower posts to help keep the angle greater).
I believe the long string retainer bar like Ibanez uses was to basically keep tuning more in check when using a locking nut.

[1trussell]

So, what about for a strat replacement neck that has non-staggered machine head posts? Would you use a string tree for all 6 strings, or one, two or no holders for pairs of strings?

[skorb]

I have non staggered tuners on my custom Tele and my luthier just put one string tree on the high E and B. it's fine.

[1trussell]

cool, thanks

[toejam]

Yeah, I guess one should be pretty much fine. Shouldn't really have any tuning problems, but some people still like to use two or just the big retainer bar instead.

[jgcable]

2 string trees make it easier to restring for me. I have strats with 1 tree and some with 2.

[blindmuddy]

I used staggered tuners and eliminated the trees altogether and guess what? I can actually use the strat trem and it it stays tune. All the problems came from the strings hanging up in the stupid ass trees.

[Zerberus]

I know old Fenders used two trees to help with the downward pressure for the angle of the E, B, G and D strings behind the nut. They switched to only one for the E and B strings since they started using staggered machine head posts (the low E and A now have taller posts, the other strings had lower posts to help keep the angle greater).
I believe the long string retainer bar like Ibanez uses was to basically keep tuning more in check when using a locking nut.

Actually, strats started out with one in ´54, and sometime around the 60s it became quite common for players and techs to mount a second one on the D and G strings for more downforce on the saddle... eventually Fender followed suit.

Then people started wanting more "vintage", and at the same time staggered tuner posts started coming out (IIRC SPerzel was the first), so from then to this day some have one some have 2.

You´re spot on on the OFR Retainer bar, though, it´s meant to minimize the tuning change when clamping down the nut.

The reason for the trees on a strat is to return the breaking angle over the nut to a more ideal value (11-12° is generally regarded as optimal), so as not to inhibit sustain. the B and High e are in dire need of this, as the angle w/o is under 5 degrees, which is low enough to actually let the string pop pout of a properly cut nut quite easily... THe d and g are more in the 7-10 degree range, which is better but still not optimal (hence the reasons for the mod in the ´60s).

THe Low e and A need no string trees, as they´re so close to the nut that the proper downforce can easily be achieved.... But you have too be careful on the low e, or you´ll have too much downforce, contributing adversely to tuning issues and string fatigue...

[toejam]

Good stuff, Tim.