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  • Waterslide Graphics

    Hey guys, got a scenario: My Soloist body is in the shop, and about to have the starting coats of primer layed on. Originally, I had wanted to do a simple white, with two grapical items, on it. I designed them, in Photoshop, printed them out, on compatible waterslide paper, and gave them the required 2-3 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic laquer clearcoat, as per the instructions. Now, I am wondering: How will the Urethane clear stages work with those acrylic laquer coats, under it (both graphics are roughly 5x5", each)? How will the waterslide graphics hold up, over time (fading)?
    So, anybody with experience in this? The good, the bad, the ugly? My paint guy is on holding pattern till further notice. He suggested we do a test run, on a spare graphic, and while I agree, I thought I'd get input from "the dudes", first.

    Might save me some precious time, money, AND, maybe even my guitar!
    I'm not Ron!

  • #2
    I can tell you from recent experience with my metal flake blue strat, urethane will not stick to acrylic.
    It will flake off.
    I'm still scrapping the crap off the body.
    I have already re-shot the headstock with an acrylic clear since the paint job is acrylic. It's been a month now and it's holding up perfectly.
    -Rick

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    • #3
      well, was that actual urethane, or canned urethane? They are quite different, so they might react quite differently, too. I wonder if a light coat of an adhesion promoter would be in order, too.
      Last edited by Racerx2k; 04-19-2006, 05:59 PM.
      I'm not Ron!

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      • #4
        In all fairness, it was spray can urethane over spray can acrylic.
        But I've been told by many that the two should never be used together regardless.
        I had my father-in-law do the re-shoot with a catalyzed (sp?) acrylic clear on the headstock to test for compatibility before I have the body done.
        No issues with it and the spray can acrylic paint job.
        -Rick

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        • #5
          See, that's where it gets hairy, cause the Urethane in the can is a 1 stage urethane, much unlike the 2 stage type, used on cars, and many guitars, these days, so it MIGHT not be a fair assessment. Who knows. Maybe doing the waterslide thing AT ALL is not a good way of doing the graphics. I odn't know. That's why I'm asking. Hopefully, one of the paint gurus, like MM, will chime in, and lend an opinion.
          I'm not Ron!

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          • #6
            I´ve never had good eyperiences mixing ´Thane and poly unless I was going for a Crackle effect.... This is with cans or HVLP guns, 1 or 2 stage....

            But I´m a luthier not a pro spraygun operator

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            • #7
              I'd suggest shooting several dust coats before laying on the wet coats.
              The dust coats should help "lock in" the decal and build a foundation for the wet coats that will follow.

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              • #8
                The 2 part Urethane clears are pretty neutral. I'd wait on the acrylic clear coat to flash off real good. (Smell test is good) Then, apply the 2 part urethane coats like what Model1VH2 said. I haven't had problems with 2 part urethanes interacting with water slide decals or inks.
                Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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                • #9
                  I handed a test piece over to my paint guy, today, on lunch break. He is convinced that it shouldn't be a prob, but will run the test piece, first, and I agree. He's gonna start shooting the primer coats, today or tomorrow. Providing the test piece goes well, once the primer and color coats are shot, he's gonna call me, I'll grab the body, bring it home, apply the decals, and shoot it back to him, for the clears. Like you guys said, the dust coats sound like a good point, and I'll have to remember to mention that to him. Thanks for the input.
                  I'm not Ron!

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                  • #10
                    Oh, yea, I thought you had already shot clear acrylic on the decals. This is better than if you had already done it. Now, just shoot the 2 part clear urethane over the decals directly. Remember to wait at least overnight for all the water to evaporate from the underside of waterslide decals before you start clear coating.
                    Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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                    • #11
                      Yeah, I DID shoot the clear acrylic, already, to seal the decals. I think he means that, once the decals ARE applied, and prior to shooting the FULL poly clear coats, a few light dust coats should be applied, kinda like an adhesion coat. I HAVE noticed, sometimes these kind of coats help in these sort of situations. Unfortunately, I lack the acrylic laquer -to- urethane experience, so anything goes, at this point, till proven otherwise.
                      I'm not Ron!

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                      • #12
                        Ok, I missed it. It's the test piece! Duh!
                        Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.

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                        • #13
                          you probably know this already, but when you put the decal on, use a wet paintbrush; it helps get the air out.

                          sully
                          Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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                          • #14
                            LOL. Actually I didn't, but it makes sense. Thanks.
                            I'm not Ron!

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Bengal65
                              Ok, I missed it. It's the test piece! Duh!
                              All the decals, test piece included, are already sealed in acrylic laquer.

                              Just for the heck of it, here's a concept shot of the guitar. Hope it comes out as well as this:

                              Last edited by Racerx2k; 04-20-2006, 05:30 PM.
                              I'm not Ron!

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