Went shopping for refin stuff today. How'd I do?

[metallicarocks]

-LOTS of sandpaper both for my sander and for sanding blocks. (grades 100, 150, and 220)
-Buffing kit for power drill
-Minwax sanding sealer
-Minwax Polyurethane Clear Gloss
-Particle mask (filters lead)

I only bought spray paint for this project. I'm going to experiment on a couple of pawnshop guitars to see if I have a knack for it before I blow $100 on an airbrush setup.

What did I miss? Should I take something back perhaps?

Thanks for any suggestions!

[St.James]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I do?

buffing compound?

[RacerX]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I do?

Tylenol [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

[Newc]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I do?

Tylenol 3 [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

You'll want some finer grit paper - check the automotive section for 1500 and 2000 grit.

Take the Minwax stuff back and get Krylon. If your paint is not Krylon, take it back as well and get Krylon. Try to keep everything the same brand as they're formulated to work with each other.

You can use Krylon Crystal Clear for the clearcoat rather than poly in a bucket, because poly in a bucket needs a catalyst to make it harden, otherwise you could be waiting a year or more for it to harden once applied.

Yes, I bought the book from Ebay [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[rjohnstone]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

+1 on the MinWax Poly... Take it back.
I used it on my Charvel repro... it's crap.
It started to flake off after a week. And yes, I know how to prep a body for clear coating.
Turns out Minwax poly is ONLY for stained wood, not painted. Nice if they put that bit of info on the actual can. [img]/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]

And yea.. for rattle jobs, Krylon. The stuff sticks to damn near anything. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[Bengal65]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

If your going aerosols by all means go Krylon as Newc already stated. Yes, some wet/dry papers for wet sanding in 600,800,1000,1200,1500 and 2000 grits. Then you can switch over to compound such as StewMac's coarse, medium and fine. Then us a swirl remover such as Stewmac's or Meguires. Depending on how smooth your finish is you can start at 1000 grit. Put a little Ivory dishwashing soap in the water for sanding and soak your papers for a half a day before using. You may also want to get or make some sanding blocks, either the rubber type from an auto supply store and/or some made from plexiglass.

[sully]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

floyd blocks also make great sanding blocks. if you have an extra one, i highly recommend using one for the flat surfaces of the body.

and what everyone else said on the other stuff. soon you'll learn that 1000 grit paper can behave like coarse sandpaper when you're wetsanding clear. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

my best piece of advice for using rattlecan stuff is to wait at least a month between final clearcoats and sanding. like most people, you'll probably find that out on your own, but don't sand the stuff until it stops smelling like paint. once it doesn't smell anymore, you can start.

sully

[Model1VH2]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

I don't suggest using the 'ol sniffer method for checking Krylon. Krylon will continue to cure long after the smell is gone. It could actually take up to a full year before it's totally cured, but for the purpose of wetsanding, I'd suggest waiting at least 8-weeks after your final coat of clear.

Also, IMO, the key to a good paintjob is a good thorough body prep. Fill all screw holes too during this stage to help prevent water from getting into the wood while wetsanding in the later stages. The water may cause the wood to swell and your paintjob to "wrinkle".

I do all of my buffing and polishing by hand and I've had alot of success with using 3M Perfect It II rubbing compound. Be careful when using power tools as not to burn through the paint. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[sully]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

ah, nice one. i've been primarily a catalyzed poly person; i've heard the sniff test is a pretty good way to tell, but i defer to ya on that one.

+a million on the hole filling. because of that, i'll usually wetsand with prep-sol. water makes me nervous as hell sometimes.

sully

[Model1VH2]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I do?

Also, Krylon is great advice, but I'll go one further and suggest that you stick with the Krylon "standard" indoor/outdoor product offerings throughout the entire process of your project. Stay clear (no pun intended) of the Krylon "Triple Thick" and "Fusion" product offerings.
I've seen ALOT of bad chemical reactions when using that stuff.

Just a heads up.
Oh, and never mix different paints. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

As for the "airbrush" setup ...
I recommend sprayguns, not airbrushes.
Airbrushes are more for precision artwork and won't allow for good even coverage.

JMO

[moro]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

When you guys say to fill the screw holes, do you mean sticking toothpicks or something in there? Or actual wood filler? (And redrilling the holes later?)

[rjohnstone]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

Fill 'em and re-drill 'em later.

[Model1VH2]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

I use Bondo.
It works okay for me.

Another little trick I do is stuff the pivot post holes with pieces of a paper towel. This way if water does get into the holes, the paper towel absorbs it before it has a chance to soak into the wood. I do the same to the tuner holes if painting a headstock just as a precaution.
I also tape up the pickup cavities just before I lay my first coat of paint. The paint and clearcoat serves as a seal with the tape to help prevent water damage as well.
Then just use a razor to cut away the tape when you're done.
It makes for a neater appearance as well IMO.

I've heard that using "mineral spirits" while wetsanding also helps prevent the wood from swelling, but I've never tried it.

[Bengal65]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
i'll usually wetsand with prep-sol. water makes me nervous as hell sometimes.

sully

[/ QUOTE ]
Sully, Ahh, that's a real good one. I haven't tried the PrepSol. The "Pro's" have recommended Mineral Sprits, and I have problems with that too. I've had it get up far in the grain (further than water would go) and had delayed (several days later) finish wrinkling and lifting that you would get with water much faster.
I would think the key to PrepSol is that it evaporates fast yet has good lubricity. I'll have to try that! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

In case you guy's are wondering where to get PrepSol, it's a Dupont product available at auto body paint supply stores that sell Dupont products.
P.S. It's great for cleaning guns as in firearms too. Added Bonus [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[Racerx2k]

Re: Went shopping for refin stuff today. How\'d I d

[ QUOTE ]
Tylenol 3 [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

You'll want some finer grit paper - check the automotive section for 1500 and 2000 grit.

Take the Minwax stuff back and get Krylon. If your paint is not Krylon, take it back as well and get Krylon. Try to keep everything the same brand as they're formulated to work with each other.

You can use Krylon Crystal Clear for the clearcoat rather than poly in a bucket, because poly in a bucket needs a catalyst to make it harden, otherwise you could be waiting a year or more for it to harden once applied.

Yes, I bought the book from Ebay [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

Aw, man, I would stay away from that Crystal Clear stuff. I've had first-hand experience with it, and it didn't work out so well. I bought it to clear a headstock that I had re-shaped, cause I figured it would go on 3 times as thick. Little did I know it was gonna turn out about 3 times as SOFT! I ended up having to sand it all out, and restarting. I don't know what others' experiences have been with it, but that's been mine. It DID give me a decent finish on my keychain holder, though. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]