Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

finishing/ finishing prep questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • finishing/ finishing prep questions

    finishing questions.

    I'm buying a cheap guitar for the sole purpose of painting it. it's a friends hondo les paul rip off.

    It's going to be snow white with thin black binding

    kindof like that.

    a few questions I need answered though, as I'm not an experienced painter by any means.

    I'm thinking the best way to do the binding would be after I spray the whole body white, tape it off except for the binding and spray it black. what's the best way to do this if I want a clean binding that looks straight and professional?

    also, I'm to sand the existing finish off of the guitar, I assume I can do that with 400 grit and work my way up. What grit should I end on before painting it? and is there something else I need to do to the guitar other than and it? any sort of chemical or bleech to apply? or something to fill the wood pores or something.

    and lastly what paint should I use? Poly is an easy answer because I don' think you can get snow white with a nitro finish, but is there a specific paint I can use that won't slowly yellow?

    Since it's a pretty easy color, I was thinking about even doing it with spray cans. any opinions on this? I have access to a compresor and arbrush, but I'm thinking spray cans might be a little easier. obviusly it won't looks as professional, but will it look at least factory or are you going to be able to tell someone did it with spray cans?

  • #2
    Re: finishing/ finishing prep questions

    i wouldn't use an airbrush to paint a guitar; if you've got a compressor, pick up a gun; you'll get better results from that in a faster amount of time by going that route.

    for your other questions:

    - i'd personally paint the edges that will become the "binding" black first, mask that off and paint the rest of the guitar white. less to mask, less chance of hassle. but i'm getting ahead of myself.

    - sand it, but keep the original finish on there b/c it's a flat, sealed surface. fill the dings that you need to fill, sand it with 320-400, then prime it.

    - after the primer's cured, sand it to about 600. then shoot the edges black. when that's dry and sandable, (give it a day) sand it flat with 800 or 1000 grit (to level out any orange peel and get everything flat again) and mask it off.

    - as far as tape goes, i'd use the blue vynl 3M striper's tape. DON'T stretch the tape; it'll walk back on you, and that's a hassle.

    - shoot the white, and once you've got enough on there, level sand it if you have to (no orange peel), then clear the fucker.

    a note of caution:

    - get a mask; not a cheapass dust mask. spend the $40 or whatever and get the gas mask lookin thing. you may not think it's all that bad when you're shooting the primer and color, but fuckin' a, that clear coat will kill you. so get a mask. seriously.

    - make sure that your surface is clean. if you have any lint, dust, or anything on that body, the clear is like shining a bright light on it, and it'll be buried for the ages.

    there's lots more to cover, but i'm fuckin' exhausted.

    oh, and listen to whatever mm2002 mark says. i woulda shot myself in the eye if it wasn't for his help in threads and via pm.

    sully
    Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
    Sully Guitars on Facebook
    Sully Guitars on Google+
    Sully Guitars on Tumblr

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: finishing/ finishing prep questions

      Both Sully and MM are knowledgable guys, and he gives you good advise. Also, read up on this thread:

      http://www.jcfonline.com/ubbthreads/...&page=0#636347

      It'll give you some helpful info, thanks to MM's postings, with pics and all.
      I'm not Ron!

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: finishing/ finishing prep questions

        Everything Sully said 100%. The only thing I would probably do different is I'd paint the whole deal white, then mask and paint the "feaux" bindings. The only reason is that it's going to take a lot more white to get an even coverage if you're trying to paint over black. Your base color overall should be as thin as possible, and allowed to dry well before any clear coating. It just helps prevent major shrinkage after the clear goes on. Either way will work though.
        My goal in life is to be the kind of asshole my wife thinks I am.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: finishing/ finishing prep questions

          [ QUOTE ]
          Everything Sully said 100%. The only thing I would probably do different is I'd paint the whole deal white, then mask and paint the "feaux" bindings. The only reason is that it's going to take a lot more white to get an even coverage if you're trying to paint over black. Your base color overall should be as thin as possible, and allowed to dry well before any clear coating. It just helps prevent major shrinkage after the clear goes on. Either way will work though.

          [/ QUOTE ]

          I gotta go with sully on this one.
          Masking off the black for your binding will make for a MUCH neater appearance.

          JMO

          Comment

          Working...
          X