PDA

View Full Version : neck relief



kgosnay
12-11-2005, 02:21 PM
I have noticed with my .010's that I get buzz almost all over the fret board. The neck is straight and completely parallel with the strings. should there be a bit of relief in the neck so the frets dont buzz? I set my action pretty high and its still buzzing the same.

thanks

MountainDog
12-11-2005, 03:52 PM
Most manufacturers recommend a little bit of relief vs. completely straight.

This is from Tom Anderson:
CHECKING NECK & ADJUSTING

1. Make sure instrument is tuned to the proper pitch. Hold it in playing position.

2. Simultaneously fret the G-string on the 1st fret (left-hand index finger) and 15th fret (right hand thumb).

3. Check the amount of clearance between the bottom of the string and the top of the 7th fret. (While still using right hand thumb to hold the string at the 15th fret, you can use the index finger to lightly tap at the 7th fret to more clearly see the gap). There should be approximately .003 to .006 inches-that is about the thickness of a business card.

4. If the gap is too large, tighten the truss rod (clockwise). If the gap is too little, loosen the truss rod (counter-clockwise).

This is from Fender's website:
Truss Rod

There are two different styles of truss rods found on Fender guitars and basses; the "Standard" truss rod, and the "Bi-flex" truss rod. Most Fender guitars and basses are equipped with a "Standard" truss rod (there are two types of "Standard" truss rod; one which adjusts at the heel of the neck, and one which adjusts at the headstock, but both operate on the same principle). The "Standard" truss rod can counteract concave curvature, for example: in a neck that has too much relief, by generating a force in the neck opposite to that caused by excessive string tension.

Fender also uses a unique "Bi-Flex" truss rod system on some instruments. Unlike the "Standard" truss rods, which can only correct a neck that is too concave (under-bowed), the "Bi-Flex" truss rod can compensate for either concave (under-bowed), or convex (over-bowed) curvature, by generating a force in either direction as needed for the correction.

Check your tuning. Install a capo at the 1st fret, depress the 6th string at the last fret.

With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret -- see the specification chart below for the proper gap.

Adjustment at headstock (Allen wrench): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the headstock, looking toward the body of the instrument. If neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clock-wise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then recheck the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

Adjustment at neck joint (Phillips screwdriver): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the body, looking up toward the headstock of the instrument. If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clock-wise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then recheck the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

Note: In either case, if you meet excessive resistance when adjusting the truss rod, your instrument needs constant adjustment, adjusting the truss rod has no effect on the neck, or you're simply not comfortable making this type of adjustment yourself, take your instrument to your local Authorized Fender Service Center.


Neck Radius
7.25" .012" (0.3 mm)
9.5" to 12" .010" (0.25 mm)
15" to 17" Relief .008" (0.2 mm)

kgosnay
12-11-2005, 09:28 PM
thanks
I turned 1/4 turn counter clockwise, it seems i over adjusted it. It will likely be in the sweet spot after an 1/8th turn clockwise. should I wait a while before making another adjustment to the truss rod?

MountainDog
12-12-2005, 10:52 PM
You can go ahead and keep tweaking it in one 'session'. Probably should double check it in a couple days.

eddie_van_earache
12-18-2005, 08:27 AM
yes it will settle a bit so re check it in a few days should be fine

Niccolai
12-18-2005, 10:29 AM
perhaps it's your neck angle.

If it's a bolton guitar, it probably needs a shim.

giles
12-20-2005, 07:15 PM
If it is the neck angle, remember that "a little shim goes a long way."

Giles

fett
12-20-2005, 08:44 PM
I have had,literally, hundreds of guitars. Raise the bridge and,if necessary, shim the nut. My advice is don't fuck with the truss rod.

kgosnay
12-22-2005, 09:09 PM
thanks guys, it took forever but i got rid of the buzz. shimming the neck and the nut did the trick.

raed666
10-11-2010, 07:21 PM
Could someone PLZZZ elaborate on fender's NECK -JOINT adjustment: I will tighten by turning clockwise IF My FAcE (Lets say) LYING ON THE BRIDGE OR HEADSTOCK, OR IF YOU can EXPLAIN IT in a more easier way
or tell me if my description in the next diagram (hope you understand it) is correct or not,,,thx guys
VV >>Head Stock
!!
!! >>>Neck
!!
(truss rod at heel)
Me looking from this point>> explain assuming looking from here
(body, knobs,bridge....)