Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

[Number Of The Priest]

Would someone like to type up (or link me to) an easy-to-follow procedure for idiots like myself who have NO luthier/woodworking experience concerning replacing plastic block inlays (Les Paul Custom style) with real mother-of-pearl block inlays? As you know, my Edwards LPC has plastic blocks and a couple of them are very slightly crooked, but unnoticeable from a distance. See this pic:



I've seen the pre-cut LPC inlay set offered for sale on Stew-Mac's website:

http://www.stewmac.com/cgi-bin/hazel.cgi...ml&CURRENCY=CAD

However, I have no idea whether their 0.050" thickness is suitable for my fretboard since I don't know how thick my plastic inlays are. Plus, regarding the slightly crooked inlays, I'd want to install the MOP blocks nice and straight, so I'd probably have to shave down parts of the fretboard routes and fill in the spaces left by the straightening procedure. Want to outline that in your procedure too? [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Thank you. [img]/images/graemlins/toast.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

[VulfgangPfuck]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

Alex,

The best way to get rid of the plastic inlays...and some of you might laugh at this, and some of you know this trick...

A drop of lighter fluid, and a match (or a lighter)...they are celluloid, and will just sizzle away to little nubs once burned out. The purpose to this is to also melt the glue that holds them in place.

You then clean (and in your case, with a dremel and a downcut bit) carefully clean the routes. The StewMac shell inlay set (.050) will work here, because you're going to need to level the inlays anyway once they are set in place. And just fill the gaps with the epoxy/ebony dust/and a drop of ink mixture. If you need more, PM me... and I will give you more details. I've done the above procedure on a few guitars all with excellent results.
The nicest, was a Firebird Celebrity model that I converted into a Firebird VII. It had the plastic trapezoids that needed to go, and got replaced with the StewMac block set. I'll post pics of that when I can find them.

[Chuckracer]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

You won't fix the "crooked" part, though. They'll be really nice, crooked inlays when you're done!

[sully]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

good point! the thing that's gonna suck about that is that you'll have to enlarge the rout so that they're straight, but your inlay material may not be large enough, and you're gonna make a godawful mess.

inlay work gives me the heebie jeebies, but hey, we all have our phobias! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

[VulfgangPfuck]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

Yeah....unfortunately, the only way you're going to be able to straighten them out, is to trim the routes a little to make them straight....that's the part of this mission that will suck monkey nutz.

[SeventhSon]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

Looks like the inlays in my Orville (not "By Gibson"). I've been thinking about doing the same thing.

[PallarAndersVisa]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

i would just leave it alone :P

[quiksilver]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

Ah, where's the fun in that? [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[PallarAndersVisa]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

you get to have fun playing an awesome guitar, instead of fucking up an awesome playing guitar and hating yourself later
hehe

[VulfgangPfuck]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

Alex,

You could always send it down to me to do FOR you ya know! [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[LexLuthier]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

Not all plastic inlays are celluloid, some are acrylic. I usually just dremel out most of the inlay, then use hand chisels to clean up the edges of the inlay cavity.

[VulfgangPfuck]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

True Lex....good point. I've had to use that method before as well on some stubborn inlays that would burn out all the way. Most likely acrylic!...LOL! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

But even acrylic should burn out (not as quickly as celluloid)

[sully]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

[ QUOTE ]

But even acrylic should burn out (not as quickly as celluloid)

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hopefully it burns faster than rosewood or ebony! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[Emthrax]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?



[/ QUOTE ]

hopefully it burns faster than rosewood or ebony! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

[img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
That is EXACTLY what I was thinking! Imagining slipping with the lighter fluid, setting a match... FWOOM! Entire fretboard up in flames. [img]/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
Keep a fire extinguisher handy. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

[VulfgangPfuck]

Re: Replacing plastic inlays with real MOP inlays?

Nah...celluloid burns quickly. Much quicker than it would take to burn the wood. It literally goes "poof-sizzle" and gone! There is an easier (and safer) way to remove the acrylic type...Acetone. It won't hurt the wood, and it will melt the inlays, and soften the glue underneath.

A well reknowned luthier taught me that trick (with the lighter fluid)...even demonstrated it. I was amazed. It's like having a fretboard loaded with flashpots!...LOL! [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]