Need Some Help with a Broken Ibanez Edge Mounting Stud

[Ben...]

Hey folks! It's been a while since I've posted on here! Hope all is well with you all. I need some advice and I know you guys know your stuff better than most.

I screwed up badly trying to fix something and I need your advice. I didn't follow the cardinal rule of "if you are tightening something and it feels like it won't tighten anymore, STOP".

I was lowering the Edge bridge on a sweet 1995 Ibanez RG I bought recently and stupidly cracked the mounting pivot post thingy. Basically I thought I had unlocked the locking posts completely but hadn't and tried to lower the posts with the locks still down. I got the new posts for it today but when I took the bridge off the cracked post split and 2/3rds of the top bit fell off (the part where the allen key goes). The last bit of the top part flew off after a particularly spirited attempt and loosening the thing with part (which is also when the chip you'll see in the pictures occurred).

Basically I need the post out of the bushing. I don't care how it gets out as long as it's out. I have new posts ready to go

Here's pictures:

http://imgur.com/a/naSZU

Yes, I did that nasty chip. I'm pretty pissed about that. I have no one to blame but me. I did another one after I took that picture and I'm even less happy about that one.

So far I've basically just tried brute forcing it with pliers but that wasn't getting anywhere so I'm looking for suggestions.

Ideas I have:
- get a set of longer handled vice grip pliers so I can get a bit more torque going and not have to worry about also gripping really hard. Probably won't work.
- pull the whole thing out, bushing and all, also probably with a set of vice grip pliers. I'm concerned about fucking up the finish.
- WD-40 to loosen the post threads?
- bore the whole thing out with a drill press, dowel, and redo it. I wouldn't do this myself. I'd pay someone to.

I may just end up taking it to a repair guy here who has a really good reputation and see what he thinks.

I'm pretty choked about the whole thing because it's a pretty rad guitar. It's an Ibanez IRG 720. It was a weeeeeird Ishibashi-exclusive model from the 90s that came with a maple cap on a basswood body (flamed veneer on top of the cap), trans-black finish with natural maple body "binding", all chrome hardware (this is what makes me sad. The hardware is in amazing shape, and I fucked it up), zebra pickups and they're a neat pairing, a Dimarzio Tone Zone with a Humbucker From Hell in the neck (I LOVE the Humbucker From Hell in this thing), and a maple fretboard and matched trans-black headstock.

[shramiac]

Guessing the lock screw won't loosen? That's a dilly of a pickle!

You'd think if that was lose you could turn the post by hand to take out...but a set of vice grips should really do the trick. That tiny ass grub screw (only takes a 1.5mm Allen Key) should snap before you'd do any damage to the mounting sleeve..... but don't quote me on that! I was "lucky" that my sweat rusted the lock screws on my JEMs and I don't have to worry about them anymore! I still don't see the point of them TBH?

Sorry for not helping you any better! Good luck.

[toejam]

Hi, Ben! Welcome back. Sorry about your situation. I'd think some WD-40 might help a little bit with some vice-grips.
I never liked those tiny locking screws on the Edge posts and just left mine unlocked when I had my old RG7620.

[Number Of The Priest]

These locking studs are a pain in the ass for those who break them and I don't find there is any improved stud stability over a tremolo system with non-locking studs like an OFR. It's just one more thing that can go wrong.

Props to the Gotoh company for trying to improve on the traditional Floyd Rose system though. Their Gotoh High Stability Tremolo System and the Edge tremolo are both great systems. From my user experience, I simply don't notice any stability improvement from having locking studs versus non-locking studs.

Sorry I don't have any actual tips for removing the trem stud. Just sending you best wishes and I would love to see pics of your guitar when it's complete!

[Kisonen]

If you have Dremel tool you can use it to cut slot for flathead screwdriver on top of the broken trem post and see if you can get that damaged part out that way. If that doesn't help I would just yank the insert out with pincers or fitting pliers. Before doing so go around the insert with hobby knife so minimum amount of paint gets damaged (You will get some splinters anyway).

[BlackRR]

If the hole is deep enough in the stud there is a tool not sure of the name that is used for automotive repair basically a tapered screw that has a reverse thread that allows you to back out screws in situations like this.

[Hellbat]

Yeah, drill a hole into the stud and use an "Easy-out" which can be found at most automotive supply shops. It is exactly as BlackRR described.

[murkat]

good ideas already said above.
I will add, if it is seized in, some heat from a solder iron tip sitting on top of that broken bolt will loosen things up a bit for you as well.
Heat it up, and turn slowly back an forth, (forward / reverse) a lil bit till it releases its hold.

[Ben...]

Thanks for the advice guys! I'm definitely going to look into one of those Easy-out things. I was wondering if something like that existed. I have a feeling as soon as it even moves a bit it'll be easy to get out the rest of the way. The main trouble I'm having is that it's such a small work area. Most sets of pliers can't fit in without chewing up the trem cavity.

I'm also gonna tape up the whole thing and cover the finish properly. I probably should have done that in the first place but then again at this point there's a lot I should have done in the first place hahaha (You know, like actually look up how the locking mechanism in the posts works. I could have avoided this entire issue).

I'll keep you all posted!

edit: dammit autocorrect.

[Axewielder]

Looks like you could get it out with vice grips to me. Those locking studs do suck, really more trouble than they are worth for those of us who like to adjust their action frequently.

[Ben...]

I clamped the thing down to a bench, and attacked it with a set of vice grips and it still didn't budge. It's in there really good. There's just not enough room to give it a good twist without destroying the trem route. I taped the whole area up so there's less chance of ruining the finish now. I'm now 99% sure the locking screw is either bent or dug in so it'll be a challenge. It won't budge at all when I try and loosen it using a 1.5mm allen key.

I'm gonna head out sometime this weekend and get some WD-40, an extractor and a left-handed drill bit too and see if any of them will work. If these attempts don't work it's off to a repair person and see what they think.

[Ben...]

I did it!

Here's a couple pictures: http://imgur.com/a/rM03a

I tried using a left handed drill bit first because I was paranoid about breaking an easy-out but the drill bit didn't catch. It did however bore out the hole big enough that I could fit a bigger easy-out into it. Then I just hammered in the easy-out, hooked up my vice grips, crossed my fingers and hoped the easy-out didn't break. I did a twist, heard a "CLUNK", went "OH FUCK" because I thought I broke the easy-out and then realized that the stupid thing was finally loose. The threads of the posts are clogged with rust on one side. The stupid fucking lock thing spins fine now. I must have had it dug in pretty good.

I now have it back together with a fresh set of strings on and now that the height can be adjusted, it plays even better than before (the neck on this thing is insane. It's up there with my '92 Soloist XL). I got the action down to 1mm on the high E and between 1.5mm and 2mm for the low E, which is about perfect for me.

Thanks again everyone! You likely saved me a lot of money. I was gonna take it into a repair guy, which would have probably been more money than the 15 bucks it cost to get a couple easy-outs and drill bits.

I should probably post this guitar to Jemsite. I was reading up on it (by reading up I mean reading one of two forum posts I've found anywhere on these things) and apparently there were doubts as to whether this model even existed. I've only found evidence of two other ones on the internet, one the same as mine (trans-black/green) but in much worse shape0 and an Ibanez ad for Ishibashi that has one in red. Mine's in decent shape and came with the original case, all the accessories and manuals (one which has the specs, including the pickups. I thought the Humbucker from Hell was aftermarket, but it is indeed stock), and the hang-tags for it from 1995.

[toejam]

Nice! Glad you got it worked out and it's up and running again.