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Floyd Push-In Arm Review

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  • Floyd Push-In Arm Review

    As promised, my humble take on the Floyd Rose Push-In style arm assembly:

    For starters, it might be helpful to note they are not like the Ibby push-in arms. Ibanez relied on plastic bushings around the base of the arm to provide the friction on the arm. Not the best design concept in hindsight. Bushings would be worn thin over time and/or level of use and the arm would be back to swinging loosely. Additionally, there was no way to adjust swing tension.

    The FR push in uses an approach also used by G&L and Gotoh where a set screw on the side of the housing collar is used to supply tension on the arm.

    The bar I tested is definitely snug in the socket and tension is adequately controlled and can be adjusted to suit your desired level of swing. There was an initial problem with the arm "giving" a little laterally, but it turns out that it was just the assembly shifting in the base plate due to it not being tightened down enough. It's advisable to double check. This likely can be applicable to any situation wherein an assembly is being replaced on a base plate or even if an arm feels loose on a stock unit.

    As for performance- it's a Floyd Rose. It performed as expected and did everything an arm is supposed to do. I'd make the argument that there was a slightly more snug feeling to the arm and that translates into improved flutter (if that's your thing) but a) I was prompted with this notion before I began my own assessment and it may just be the power of suggestion, and b) the degree to which said flutter is improved is so minuscule that I could hardly quantify it.

    My only misgiving about this arm assembly is the need for a specialized Allen wrench (other than that of those typically supplied with Floyds and Floyd-equipped axes) to adjust the set screw and to remove it from the socket. It's a minor annoyance but an annoyance all the same to have to fish around for said wrench when/if you need to adjust it or more likely, if you need to pull the bar out to put the guitar into it's hard case. I have numerous Allen wrench sets and luckily, one fit! If anyone's interested- I believe it uses a 2MM Allen wrench. The superior design of the finger tightened collar gets the win for speed, ease and convenience of adjustment and removal IMHO.

  • #2
    Are you sure you have to loosen the set screw to take the bar off the bridge? On my Wilk it slides in and out with no need for adjustment.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by metalhobo View Post
      Are you sure you have to loosen the set screw to take the bar off the bridge? On my Wilk it slides in and out with no need for adjustment.
      Do you keep your trem arms pretty stationary? As stated, I like my bars to remain relatively stationary.
      I'm sure it can be pulled out but I'd be concerned with the wear and tear on both components, given the tension the screw provides. If it's sufficient force to prevent the bar from swinging, it's sufficient to prevent the bar from easily being moved vertically.

      That brings up an interesting point, though: what's the wear and tear factor on the bar from moderate rotation; i.e. moving the bar outta the way by even 30 - 45 degrees? Over time and depending on frequency and set screw tension, that's gotta be digging into the surface of the bar. Presumably the set screw is steel and the (in my case) black coated arm is likely steel.
      Last edited by vector; 12-07-2016, 02:32 PM.

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      • #4
        Very well written! Thank you for this!

        Relevant link: http://www.floydrose.com/catalog/upg...h-in-style-arm

        Since you prefer the collared Floyd arm, will we be seeing your push-in arm listed in the Classifieds?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Number Of The Priest View Post
          Very well written! Thank you for this!

          Relevant link: http://www.floydrose.com/catalog/upg...h-in-style-arm

          Since you prefer the collared Floyd arm, will we be seeing your push-in arm listed in the Classifieds?
          Surprisingly, I'm gonna hold onto it. For now anyway. It works well and if I keep it on one of the axes that doesn't get put into a case, then issue avoided.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by vector View Post
            Do you keep your trem arms pretty stationary? As stated, I like my bars to remain relatively stationary.
            I'm sure it can be pulled out but I'd be concerned with the wear and tear on both components, given the tension the screw provides. If it's sufficient force to prevent the bar from swinging, it's sufficient to prevent the bar from easily being moved vertically.

            That brings up an interesting point, though: what's the wear and tear factor on the bar from moderate rotation; i.e. moving the bar outta the way by even 30 - 45 degrees? Over time and depending on frequency and set screw tension, that's gotta be digging into the surface of the bar. Presumably the set screw is steel and the (in my case) black coated arm is likely steel.
            The insert which holds the bar in the housing should be plastic. At last that's how it is on my Wilk. The set screw cranks down on the plastic and the plastic tightens around the bar, providing friction. The only thing that could possibly wear out is that plastic insert, and in that case, you would just tighten the set screw to compensate.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by metalhobo View Post
              The insert which holds the bar in the housing should be plastic. At last that's how it is on my Wilk. The set screw cranks down on the plastic and the plastic tightens around the bar, providing friction. The only thing that could possibly wear out is that plastic insert, and in that case, you would just tighten the set screw to compensate.
              Same for my G&L. There's a nylon bushing inside that gets pushed against the bar for the hex tension screw to crank on to.
              I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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              • #8
                Pop in arm = 100% for me. But I'm used to the Edge wang on my JEMs, so maybe I'm a little biased?

                I have two of them and wouldn't go back. Weirdly, they have different lengths on the end that goes into the block? One of them hits the high E fine tuner if you swing it around. I actually don't mind that it sits a little lower though.
                www.vvforums.com

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                • #9
                  I am not surprised by your description of it.
                  The 2nd Amendment: America's Original Homeland Defense.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by shramiac View Post
                    Pop in arm = 100% for me. But I'm used to the Edge wang on my JEMs, so maybe I'm a little biased?

                    I have two of them and wouldn't go back. Weirdly, they have different lengths on the end that goes into the block? One of them hits the high E fine tuner if you swing it around. I actually don't mind that it sits a little lower though.
                    I liked the pop-in arms on my old Model 5A and Model 6, but the little white bushings needed to be replaced after awhile when it became wobbly.
                    I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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                    • #11
                      I've got 2 of the push-in arms and I've noticed a little spot where the black is wearing out where the set screw sits and I'm wondering if that nylon bushing is actually protecting the arm or if it's going to start losing stiffness over time?

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                      • #12
                        Based on feedback here, I did a closer inspection and, indeed, the arm housing does have a nylon or plastic bushing in there. However, the arm does not just pop right out. With the level of tension on the bar to maintain it stationary, you can't casually pull it out. Couldn't measure the amount of force put on it but I pulled on it pretty well (the wang bar, not my wang ) and it didn't budge. Once I loosened the set screw, as expected, it came out but I did notice a small bit of black finish on the bar already missing. Not sure what to attribute that to.

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                        • #13
                          I have the bar on my G&L just tight enough where it lightly swings, and I can pull it out with a tiny amount of force. I'm sure if I had it tighter, I'd need the wrench all the time to loosen it. It's also chrome, and I haven't noticed any wearing on it yet.
                          I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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                          • #14
                            Got 2 of those Floyd push in arms and like them a lot.I'm also biased by my Ibanez RGs.
                            JB aka BenoA

                            Clips and other tunes by BenoA / My Soundcloud page / My YouTube page
                            Guitar And Sound (GAS) forum / Boss Katana Amps FB group

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