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Jackson DKXT Dinky setup questions

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  • Jackson DKXT Dinky setup questions

    So, I just got a cheap guitar and amp recently from my nephew. He's going away to college and barely played it and needed some money. I wanted to start learning at the ripe old age of 40 and figured it would help us both out if I just bought his. It's a Jackson Dinky DKXT hardtail with EMG passive pickups and a Line-6 Spider IV 30 amp, along with a bunch of accessories. I paid $300.00 which seemed a good deal considering what the amp and guitar originally retailed for.

    I learned as much as possible about setups online and measured the neck relief to be .020 with a feeler gauge. This seems to be what the Jackson manual recommends (.020 or whatever you're comfortable with.) Based on info read online, I decided to see if I could get it a little less relief. At .010 with action set to 4/64ths above the 12th fret on the bass side and a hair lower on the treble side, it had some buzz between the 3-5th frets. So I gave it a tad more relief, reset the action and now it's higher than .010 and clearly lower than .020. Using feeler gauges is tricky, but I'm going to say it's about .015, which is more than what some shredders like, but feels good to me with the action set st 4/64ths still and NO buzzes whatsoever anywhere on the neck. I set the intonation with a Korg Pitch Black Tuner and it's dead on at the 12th fret both fretted and by the harmonic. Seems in tune everywhere on the neck. Maybe 2 cents sharp on the low E at the 1st fret and a couple flat on the 23rd-24th. Sounds good, feels good, plays good so I have been happy playing it and learning for about 2 months now.

    I sort of just noticed though that the neck visibly seems to bow up toward the headstock. I checked the relief again and it's the same, nothing changed, so I guess I just never really noticed it. For a neck that is within the correct specs, it seems to my eye to be a lot more curved than I would imagine, but I'm new to guitars. Also, the high e string is closer to the edge of the fret board than the low E, but not enough to affect playability. It never slips off the fret board or anything like that. I just want to know if these things are normal or indicate any possible problems.

    Does this look normal within reason? Also, some say to check relief by putting a capo on 1st fret and holding the last fret, some say hold the fret where the neck joins the body....which is it? Because I get ever-so-slightly different results depending on which method I use. Gap is slightly bigger if I fret at the last fret, but it's still way under .020 so I wouldn't expect it to be severely bowed.








    Last edited by Shawn333; 11-04-2016, 02:25 AM.

  • #2
    Welcome! Wow, for someone with only two months' experience, you're already diving deep into playing and setups. Congratulations. It shows you're not afraid of "messing around" with the guitar's settings. After all, it's always reversible (as long as you don't overtighten/strip screws and such).

    Originally posted by Shawn333 View Post
    It's a Jackson Dinky DKXT hardtail
    Correction: The type of fixed bridge on your guitar is a tunomatic bridge with strings through the body. A hardtail bridge refers to a different type of fixed bridge, such as the one seen below:



    Originally posted by Shawn333 View Post
    Sounds good, feels good, plays good so I have been happy playing it
    In the end, that's all that really matters. Measurements will get you close to where you want to be. Then you have to play it and adjust according to feel and personal preferences. Since I mostly play with distortion, I am willing to tolerate a little bit of string buzz in pursuit of lower action, to a point.

    Originally posted by Shawn333 View Post
    Also, the high e string is closer to the edge of the fret board than the low E, but not enough to affect playability. It never slips off the fret board or anything like that. I just want to know if these things are normal or indicate any possible problems.
    Misalignment is a minor issue and easily corrected. Below is the Youtube video that alleviated my fears in adjusting the neck rotation in the pocket. It's very simple, and a necessary skill for those of us who disassemble their bolt-on guitars and need to ensure proper parallel string alignment when reattaching the neck to the body and then restringing. You need to apply pressure in the desired direction while simultaneously tightening the neck screws. You can do it alone (as demonstrated in the video) but I imagine it's even easier with someone assisting you.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXya9Z-2H4o

    Originally posted by Shawn333 View Post
    Also, some say to check relief by putting a capo on 1st fret and holding the last fret, some say hold the fret where the neck joins the body....which is it? Because I get ever-so-slightly different results depending on which method I use. Gap is slightly bigger if I fret at the last fret, but it's still way under .020 so I wouldn't expect it to be severely bowed.
    For neck relief, watch the below Youtube video. The principles apply to acoustic and electric guitars because you're using the string as a straight edge and listening for that little "tick" sound. Because of this, personally I've noticed there isn't much difference where I hold the butt end of the fretboard. Some guitars have 21 frets, some have 22, and others have 24 or more. As long as I get a tiny bit of relief with a tiny "tick" sound, I'm happy.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPhF2X_bdXg

    If you're really seeking as straight a neck as possible with as little relief as possible, you will need a notched straight edge (example: http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...aightedge.html).

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    • #3
      Thanks for all of the info! It's much appreciated.

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