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JT-590 Repair and Nut

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  • JT-590 Repair and Nut

    Hi guys, some quick questions here:

    My Charvel 375 deluxe has a stripped hole on the base-plate for the G string intonation screw. Because of this, the guitar cannot intonate properly. In addition, one of the holes in the nut is stripped as well. I was hoping it was just the screw but it is indeed the nut itself. And yes, I am very careful about over tightening, but the guitar is 25 years old and only in my posession for about 5.

    Bridge:

    Thinking of using something like a heli-coil to fix the baseplate. Worst case I'm stuck in the same boat and have to get a replacement plate. Has anyone done this before? According to Audiozone, I would need an M3 size, and looking at the technical drawing for the JT-590 the baseplate is 5mm thick. Will a 3mm suffice here or should I go full 5? Also, I see some other brands like EZ lock are much cheaper...any experience?

    Nut:

    What nut is on the 375? I'm just going to replace this. I also noticed it's glued down instead of bolted. I have knocked out many 'regular' nuts that are glued down, any words of caution for this locking one?

    Thanks in advance! I love this guitar and its a shame it stays at home due to intonation issues.

  • #2
    It is easier to buy a new Schaller baseplate, but I wanted to keep the original "Jackson" baseplate so i repaired threads with Ez Loks:


    Here are pics of the process:

    http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/.../3Threaded.jpg

    http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff469/zedder/RR%20Pro/Schaller%20baseplate/4Inserted1.jpg

    http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...5Inserted2.jpg
    My Jacksons: RR1 x2, RR Pro, Soloist Pro, RRXMG x2, SDX, JS32RR

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    • #3
      Other threads may strip on that old base plate soon. I would get whole new base plate. It comes with intonation bolts too.

      Schaller R3 is the correct nut for your guitar. There are no screws on the top of the locking nut? Do you know what glue was used to glue it in? Warming the ut with soldering iron could loosen the glue enough to pull it off nicely.

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      • #4
        I got an Ez lock thread kit, the one thats more like heli-coil than what Zedder used. I know it sounds pathetic, but I like that the base plate has the logo on it.

        Thanks for the R3 information...I'm an idiot, the screws are probably there, all my other floyd nuts are bolted from the bottom.

        With that said, two more questions:

        - Any preference as to which make of R3 nut?
        - Would adding a Brass Block be worth it? I'm not a fan of the prices for a chunk of brass with some holes in it, but I've heard good things and I'm just very excited to get this guy back up to 100%, so im reaching for 110%

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        • #5
          Schaller or OFR for that R3 locking nut.

          Sustain block on that JT-590 already is tin plated brass. I would not do it but the choice is yours. Although I would change Ibanez Edge and Floyd Rose Special sustain blocks to brass as they are cheap zinc based pot metal and it makes much more noticeable difference how the notes ring out.

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          • #6
            I would buy the nut from https://www.floydrose.com/ I recently replaced one on a Jackson with a Schaller Floyd, It was a perfect fit, and the string heights were the same.
            METAL, LIVE IT!

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            • #7
              Thanks everyone! And did not know that about the sustain block, maybe I'll hold off and get one for one of my JT-6's instead

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              • #8
                Where can you get Schaller baseplates? The only thing I found was Chinese knockoffs on Fleabay.

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                • #9
                  Baseplates are available from www.rockinger.com

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                  • #10
                    Thanks

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