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  • Fixing clear lift

    I've contacted Mike Learn directly but thought I'd throw this out for anyone else (Paging Sully, paging Dr. Sully, Sully to the white courtesy phone ) to weigh in on.

    The DK1 I am trying to sell has some clear finish lift over the logo. Not uncommon but still unattractive enough to steer folks away from buying. I've read a few suggested options for DIY fixes but frankly, it makes me nervous to try untested methods.

    Anyone know if it's possible to do a decent repair and if so, how?

  • #2
    If it's near the edge of the headstock and you can get underneath it (without chipping it away), you can wick water thin CA glue in there and let it dry.

    Get some water thin CA glue (You can get some at Hobby Lobby - works well) and some glue applicator tips like these: SIG CA Applicator Tip | SIGPlanes.com


    You can also get them at Hobby Lobby.


    Gently squeeze the CA glue so only a drop comes out at a time. Those drops will wick into the delamination and fill it up. Once it's full, stop, and let it harden. Think of it as filling a pocket.


    Should be pretty seamless when it's dried.

    If there is no break in the clear to wick CA into, that's another story, and best handled by a pro. You could try to puncture the clear (near the delamination) and wick CA into that spot, but you'll most likely have a witness line.

    Sully
    Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
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    • #3
      Great info Sully! Your input is one of the reasons why I follow this forum. Thanks again!

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      • #4
        Coincidentally, that's one of the methods I've read about but Sully's description makes it a LOT easier to comprehend and thus to try. Sully, I may hit you up directly for a few more insights on that wick/pocket fill up method. There is a clear separation gap right at the edge near the binding. You can easily fit an X-acto knife blade or a pin tip in there. Getting water thin CA glue in there shouldn't be too difficult... I hope. :dunno:

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        • #5
          I've had two DK1's that have had this issue. One was sent back to Jackson to fix, no prob. (I was the original owner) I still own the other, but haven;t done anything about it. My local Jackson rep said the same thing Sully did, but said to use crazy glue. I am a little apprehensive to try that. If I can find water thin glue, I may try that.
          "Some days you're the dog, other days you're the hydrant." - on the back of the business card for Bella the Pomeranian

          The comments expressed here do not necessarily reflect the opinions of management.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by vector View Post
            Coincidentally, that's one of the methods I've read about but Sully's description makes it a LOT easier to comprehend and thus to try. Sully, I may hit you up directly for a few more insights on that wick/pocket fill up method. There is a clear separation gap right at the edge near the binding. You can easily fit an X-acto knife blade or a pin tip in there. Getting water thin CA glue in there shouldn't be too difficult... I hope. :dunno:
            It's pretty simple, really; just aim under the separation so you get it underneath the clear coat, and not on top. If you follow the steps exactly as I listed (and get those applicator tips), you should be able to knock it out easily. Just take your time and don't try to flood it in one shot (you'll probably get squeezeout); it doesn't take much for it to wick in there.

            Originally posted by stevoc View Post
            I've had two DK1's that have had this issue. One was sent back to Jackson to fix, no prob. (I was the original owner) I still own the other, but haven;t done anything about it. My local Jackson rep said the same thing Sully did, but said to use crazy glue. I am a little apprehensive to try that. If I can find water thin glue, I may try that.
            CA glue is often referred to as crazy glue or super glue. Don't try this with anything but water thin; the medium viscosity is too thick to wick in there and you'll wind up with a mess. It's easy enough to find; if you don't have a hobby lobby, you can get it from stewmac, woodcraft, all kindsa places. Hobby Lobby is generally the easiest place to find it, though. It's in the model section and has a pink label. They also sell those applicator tips.

            Sully
            Sully Guitars - Built by Rock & Roll
            Sully Guitars on Facebook
            Sully Guitars on Google+
            Sully Guitars on Tumblr

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            • #7
              Originally posted by sully View Post
              It's pretty simple, really; just aim under the separation so you get it underneath the clear coat, and not on top. If you follow the steps exactly as I listed (and get those applicator tips), you should be able to knock it out easily. Just take your time and don't try to flood it in one shot (you'll probably get squeezeout); it doesn't take much for it to wick in there.



              CA glue is often referred to as crazy glue or super glue. Don't try this with anything but water thin; the medium viscosity is too thick to wick in there and you'll wind up with a mess. It's easy enough to find; if you don't have a hobby lobby, you can get it from stewmac, woodcraft, all kindsa places. Hobby Lobby is generally the easiest place to find it, though. It's in the model section and has a pink label. They also sell those applicator tips.

              Sully
              Thank you sir!
              "Some days you're the dog, other days you're the hydrant." - on the back of the business card for Bella the Pomeranian

              The comments expressed here do not necessarily reflect the opinions of management.

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              • #8
                ive done it with the same glue using a syringe and fine gauge needle from tractor supply its fixed a few over the past couple years i got the method from a post on here a while back.
                Haters gonna hate
                Dilluting the brand one MUTT at a time.

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